Power Window Switch Connector

[tucsonjwt]

Anybody know where I can get a power window switch connector for the passenger side door on my 83? It has push in style wire leads (from the side) and one of the wires won't stay pushed in (looks like the tab is broken off.)
It looks similar to the one attached, only black in color with different colored wire leads.

[bigwheel15]

Go pull one at a junk yard...or at least thats what id do.

[87chevy.com]

if you wanted to go new, heres some links:

all of the Delco connectors and sockets with usefull part numbers and such:
http://acdelcotechconnect.com/pi/wir...cavity/female/

random yahoo search for "gm window switch terminal", first result with the terminals you need.

http://www.repairconnector.com/categ...NALS-AND-KITS/

clint

[87chevy.com]

dang, 73-87chevytrucks website is down... i remember seeing a kit that had the connector and harness for cheap.. cheaper than 30 bucks if memory is correct... but they are closed for vacation...

[tucsonjwt]

Thanks for the info 87. I got the pic from the official AC Delco connector website, but don't see the connector there.
I don't see anything on the repair sites that would work. Can you indicate the specific parts that would work? I have a broken tab inside what appears to be a sealed connector - don't know how you could take apart the connector, replace tab, and reassemble. If you look at the picture I posted, it is a tab molded deep inside the connector which is spring loaded and catches the twisted end of the wire that is pushed in (like a stab connection on the back of a household 120V outlet.)
bigwheel - all squares in Tucson junkyards are completely stripped of any useable parts, and plastic/rubber parts are all junk after 20+ years in 100+ degree heat. I am finding a lot of connectors fryed by the desert heat on my 83- they dry out, lose shape, don't make good contact - hard to diagnose because they still look OK on the outside, but the inside is all hard and dried out - molded contacts inside lose their grip on the wires.

[tucsonjwt]

So, I found only one square body (Suburban) with intact electric window doors in an "automotive recycling center" in Tucson. The lot man was ready to pull the switch out to get me the connector and harness behind it when he radioed "the boss" to get the price - $50 ( without the switch - just the connector) - so, no sale (plus, no guarantee that it had a good connector.) I ordered the one pictured at the top of the thread and hope it will work. I have read that power door lock switch and power window switch connectors/harnesses are the same in the 80s GM vehicles. Time will tell. $24at OE Warehouse.

[87chevy.com]

another quick search yielded this
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-5-Pack.html
5 for 6$

[SBTork]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

another quick search yielded this
http://www.repairconnector.com/produ...rs-5-Pack.html
5 for 6$

This would not be a bad route to go. Cheap and somewhat easy. I did some checking and I came up with an oem part, but you're not going to know what GM wants for it. The GM part number is 12117265 and it retails for $79.00. Yes, you read correctly, $79.00 for a connector with leads. Not sure why it's so high priced, but it is. Hopefully the GM part number will cross reference at aftermarket parts stores because I am sure the aftermarket has this. I have never checked, but it seems like something they would have available. Good luck.

[tucsonjwt]

Thanks for the responses.
SBTork - Your p/n 12117265 shows up as a seat adjuster on GMPD. Do you have another p/n?
GM PART # 12117265
CATEGORY: Front Seat Adjuster
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $79.00
OUR PRICE: $45.03

87chevy.com - I saw the repair parts, and I see how one end would crimp on to the end of the wire lead, but how would you attach the other end to the connector inside an 1/8" square hole, with the remains of the original metal blade end still attached to the connector. The original connections appear to be factory spot welded in place, with the bakelite connector formed in place around the connections. Someone with electronics repair skills could probably fix this, but I am not very capable with a soldering iron. The best option is to get the correct GM OEM part, but I have not found a listing for one yet.

[tucsonjwt]

I got the connector pictured in the first post and installed it. I have power at various contacts in the switch, and I installed a new switch, but the window still does not operate. The power window motor is new, and the connector harness at the power window motor is new. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to track this down? Before the wire broke off the original connector, I would get a "click" when operating the switch - but now I get nothing. The new connector seems to have the exact same orientation as the original, except the outer shape of the bakelite housing is a little different shape, and the wires are all light gray with massive 10 ga wire. I have the old colored wires still hooked up to the old connector, and I followed that connection scheme, so I don't think it is cross wired.
Thanks.

[87chevy.com]

pull the door panel off. if you have a spare window motor connector, make a little harness and run it to a 18v (or so) power tool battery... see if the new window motor is bad. new doesnt always mean a working part. Find a wiring schematic and check if the wiring is correct, if it is and the motor works, the switch is bad... you might be able to take the switch apart and clean it up a bit but better to buy a new one.
clint

[tucsonjwt]

I'll check the motor again - it worked prior to connector wire breaking, but I guess I have to start over. I will look for a diagram and check the wiring, but doubt that it can be wrong, since the same wire orientation worked piror to the wire breaking off the connector. The fact that I have power at several of the terminals on the connector I take as a sign that I have power to the connector - that's about all I can surmise. I suppose it is possible that somehow internally this connector is not correct for my window switch, but I cannot find a part number for this connector/harness, so this is the best I could do. Thanks for the advice.

[tucsonjwt]

87hevy - you got it right, sort of. I pulled the door apart and put the leads of my 12v continuity tester in the connector at the motor, then operated the switch - light went on, so switch and every thing up to the motor is good. Pulled the regulator and motor out of the door (I hate that job, almost as bad as putting it back in) plugged the connector back into the motor with the regulator outside of the door -the motor works -WTF?
So, I wiggled the connector at the motor. The mating connector end attached to the motor was loose - not making good contact with the connector at the end of the wire. The 6 month old genuine made in USA AC Delco motor was defective from the factory, or I somehow destroyed it during installation (I doubt it.) I replaced it with another identical Delco motor - this one has a tight connector on the end of the motor. Works OK now.

[tucsonjwt]

An obvious, but important, BTW - that generic repair harness in the photo will work for our old squares even though it does not have color coded wire. OEhq.com and OEwarehouse.com has these and most other repair harnesses/pigtails/sockets, etc.

[87chevy.com]

sweet, glad you got it working... yeah the delco stuff kinda stinks... I spent good money on a set from the dealer when I worked there so I didnt get bent over too bad... I'll be dammed if it started going super slow after 6 months.... now it wont go but 1/2 way down.. goes up fine... gay! I really want to redo the wiring harness and add relays in there.. but just havent.
clint

[tucsonjwt]

Considering my experience with the original harnesses and connectors, you ought to look into installing the repair harness at the motor and switch. It seems like that is the weak link in these systems when they get old. I think both ends were like $30 - less for you, of course. That generic switch I put in is a lot better built, but I had to rig up a replacement for the palnut and plastic cap on the back - I used a flat speed nut and nylon acorn nut on top - not really necessary, but no need to create a spot for electrical arcing in the door. Mine are a little slow, but that is due to the nylon rollers in the regulator being hard and dried up - one rolls and one just slides in the track - I'm sure that takes a toll on the motor after a while.