Head lights

['70GMCStep]

Hey guys,
I've got bright lights now, I did some checking of connections and testing and got that far. Where do I go from here to get the low beam lights working? I know I've got to be close.

Oh by the way, I switched out the bright beam switch in the floor, and both switches behave the same way. Something I'm missing on the fusebox?


Thanks,

'70GMCStep


'65 Chevy C-10 lwb, bbw
'70 GMC Stepside swb

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by '70GMCStep

Hey guys,
I've got bright lights now, I did some checking of connections and testing and got that far. Where do I go from here to get the low beam lights working? I know I've got to be close.

Oh by the way, I switched out the bright beam switch in the floor, and both switches behave the same way. Something I'm missing on the fuseboxThanks,

'70GMCStep


'65 Chevy C-10 lwb, bbw
'70 GMC Stepside swb

'Step', the fuse block is not involved in this circuit.

has the dimmer switch been rewired at some time in the past? it sounds as if the hot wire is going to the high beam post on the dimmer, in which case you would have high beams in one position and nothing in the other.

Did you try using a jumper wire as suggested? it would tell you within a minute whether that was the case or if you still have a low beam wire problem.

['70GMCStep]

Ekkk... you all already told me that this part is not fused...I forgot, sorry.

Anyway, a quick crash course on "jumping"? I am assuming that it is bringing another wire over to check voltage or ?


'70GMCStep

[fleetsidelarry]

a "jumper" is just a temporary way of running the circuit around a suspected fault, be it a switch or a bad section of wiring. you can buy jumper leads with alligator clips, but all you need here is a short (say 4") section of 12 or 14 gauge wire with about 3/8-1/2" of insulation stripped of each end.

if your truck has original wiring, there is a plug that plugs into the dimmer switch. one of the wires (should be blue) comes from the headlite switch and supplies current to the dimmer when the lite switch is on. you can verify that with your test light. the other two wires are feeds to your headlights, one (green) for bright, the other (tan) for dim.

with the headlight switch off, unplug the dimmer switch plug, stick one end of the jumper into the plug at the connector that supplies current (hot in), and the other jumper end into one or the other of the remaining plug connectors. when you turn the headlight switch back on, you should have headlights, bright or dim, depending on which circuit you "jumped" to.

turn the headlight switch off and, leaving the 'hot in' in place move the jumper to the other site on the dimmer plug. turn the light switch on. if you still don't have headights in one of the positions on the plug, you have a problem further "down" the circuit.

if you have headlights, both dim and bright, using the jumper, your problem is the switch or the way the switch is wired as I mentioned in the previous post

['70GMCStep]

I really appreciate you breaking it down for me fleetside and your patience with a learner. I'll get this going.

There is one thing I did notice last night though. I am not sure why at the firewall plug, on the second row down on the headlight part, there is no connection there. The wire window is there, but no metal piece for a plug. My pictures came out bad last night, but the firewall plug-inon the other side is also missing that part. I figure this is one of those things I should know, but going through this thing one piece at a time, mysteries happen.

Have a good one.


'70GMCStep


'65 Chevy C-10 lwb, bbw
70 GMC Stepside swb

[fleetsidelarry]

good luck!

[jchav62]

I've got a similar problem with the '65. Let's see if anyone's dealt with this one. I believe it's the switch, let's see what you guys think. When the temp is cold outside(oddly), I get no power at all the the front of the truck, parking lights or headlights... only gauge lights and tail lights. At first I thought it was ground, but when I realized the park lights didn't work either, I figured the switch... Ideas?

[Clyde65]

connections at firewall is my guess.

[jchav62]

Everytime I'm prepared to test them, they work fine... when they weren't working, that connection was the first thing I checked. It's weird that both the park lamps and head lamps go out at the same time.

[Clyde65]

look into that connection and see if the little tabs are where they should be.

[jchav62]

Wiil do. Thanks!!

[astrochimp]

I just wanted to add, on the '63 the park light go off when there is power to the headlights.
It was the same for my old '67 GTO.
No idea when GM changed them from parking lights to running lights for our trucks.

[John Ragsdale]

(Our first new vehicle--70 Chevy C10 Short bed step side with a 250 in-line) I installed the "Ignitor Electronic Ignition" and "Flame Thrower" coil. I connected the red wire from the "Ignitor" to the pink wire just ahead of the resistor wire at the firewall. The engine fired off on the first key turn. Now when I turn the headlights on the running lights go off. Brake lights, turn signals and emergency lights work when the headlights are on.
What have I done to my lighting system? Thanks, John
First of all I'm in the wrong year. Secondly, I found and rectified the problem. Thirdly, thanks for the forum.