Nagging Steering Issue

[gringoloco]

A while back, I replaced my steering box on my '70 C10, due to leakage issues, with a rebuilt unit from an '84 C10. I figured if I was gonna spend the money, I might as well reap the benefits of the variable ratio and fewer turns lock-to-lock. This was a direct, one-for-one swap, with no other changes made. Bolted right in like it belonged there, with the exception of the high-pressure line (different fitting), which was in need of replacement anyway.

Since that time, I have had the issue of the steering box being off-center by 1/4 turn, meaning I can turn MUCH sharper to the left than to the right, my turn signal lever will not properly cancel, and is causing undue wear to the steering box internals due to being off-center while driving. Not to mention the less than desirable 'twitchy-ness' driving on the highway. I have had an alignment performed (maybe two) that did not correct the problem, though I did not specifically ask them to. In my attempt at fixing it by turning both side's tie-rods equal amounts, the 'short' side bottomed-out before the wheels were centered. My concern there is that even if the tie-rods were adjusted enough to compensate, I would have one side dramatically shorter/longer than the other, leading to bumpsteer issues. My understanding is you want them fairly close to the same length from one side to the other.

I verified that the pitman arm on the old vs new trucks are indexed exactly the same by looking at new parts from the LAPS. The pitman arm fits on the steering box by splines that have flats at the quarters, so the only movement available there would be 90*, which is too much, considering the total movement of the box is less than a half-rotation total. If I could move it a couple splines, all would be well. My thoughts at this point are the possibility of a different idler arm, or center steering link between the years. The LAPS website shows different part numbers for the idler arms, so there may be some difference there, though they are not splined, so I'm not sure how it could affect indexing.

FWIW, I also experienced this exact same phenomenon when I performed the late model steering box swap on my '72 Blazer. I 'fixed' it by yanking that crap out and installing a DM and R&P. This is no longer an option, as the truck fund ain't what it used to be...

Thoughts? I'm leaning towards the center link being different, but not sure where else to look if it's not...

Thanks in advance for any suggestions -Chris

[crazy longhorn]

I have the same box on my 69, & no issues. It sounds to me that the box was not "centered" @ the time of alignment, or possibly the splines are "twisted" on the box. I thought I caught reman, on the box......but here is a thought. I have seen an old truck take a hard hit on a wheel, & twist the shaft ,that the pitman bolts to. Possibly this was not caught during reman ? I think I would jack up the front end,turn the wheel lock to lock& count the turns(should be 3 1/4 IIRC). Then go 1/2 way between(centered box), & see if the pitman is in the proper location. After that, it may just be a matter of getting the tierods adjusted equally on both sides. best of luck,crazyL

[gringoloco]

Did you use all of the late model components, or just the box? I don't doubt they could be twisted, or that the reman might miss it, but I've had this happen to two different trucks. What would be 'proper location' of the pitman arm?

[crazy longhorn]

Trying to think back over a bunch of yrs.... My old truck was converted to disc brakes, & I used all of the steer linkage,spindles & brakes from a 75 C-10. Bolting the 84 Burb box on was a simple as you said(used the hose for the burb, & swapped the fitting on the pump). There is not much info on the centerlink(yr to yr), so I tend to use all the pcs from 1 truck that I can. I still run the stock 3/4 ton TOP A arms, & went 71-2 ,1/2 ton arms on the bottom. My truck is not twitchy at all to drive.....does spook me a bit around 140, but that was due to a driveline or tire shake If you look at the pitman, with the steering centered, it should be parallel with the front horns. shoot us a pic... crazyAL

[gringoloco]

So, pointing straight ahead? I'll get out and take a look and snap some pics asap. Thanks for mulling this one over with me

I've experienced that high speed shake before on my old Honda v-twin at about 155mph. Had some shakes of my own when it was all said and done...

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

So, pointing straight ahead? I'll get out and take a look and snap some pics asap. Thanks for mulling this one over with me

I've experienced that high speed shake before on my old Honda v-twin at about 155mph. Had some shakes of my own when it was all said and done...

Yup, pull over , toss your shorts ,then proceed I have a hopped up sporty that has never seen more than about 95....wisdom comes with age (sometimes) At any rate shoot some pics, maybe we can sort it out. crazyAL

[gringoloco]

Craaaaaaap. I was quite sure I posted a reply with pictures, apparently I hit preview instead of post... Now I'm away from the comp and don't have access to the pics.

Anyway, the pitman is straight, parallel with the framerails. The tie rod assemblies are within 1/4" of each other in length. Do you think there's enough adjustment available to make up for the 1/8 turn of steering needed? Will it cause bumpsteer or other issues with them being unequal lengths?

Thanks -Chris
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[crazy longhorn]

I really cant say for sure if you have that much adjustment there, but I have seen a spacer kit used on the frame (60-66) for adding the power steering. It would stand to reason on that particular app, the tierod assys would be adjusted (for lenght) a little differently to center the box. I have not heard of any issues with that setup, so I would assume that you should be able to adjust yours to center up the box? When your pitman is parallell with the frame, does it look like the wheels are turned slightly 1 way or other from straight? crazyL

[gringoloco]

This shot is wheels straight ahead. Pitman appears to be slightly off-parallel from the 'rails.

Please excuse the filth, I made a trip to the scrapyard on a rainy day The front suspension will be getting torn apart and cleaned/rebuilt/painted very soon, just wanted to make sure I didn't have any other issues before digging in.

[crazy longhorn]

If it were mine.....I would take the pitman loose from the box, look up at the splines & see if there is any twist in the spline. With the pitman still off, turn the steer wheel lock to lock, & find the exact center(dont worry if the steer wheel is clocked straight up). if you find that the wheel is cocked 1 way or the other, you need to pull the horn cap off to see if the wheel is off clocking with the shaft(there should be a line stamped on the end of the shaft to locate 12 oclock(if it hasnt been beat on like mine). At any rate, with the box center, & the steer wheel center, you should be ready to proceed with alingment. Put the pitman back on, & adjust the tierod sleeves a turn at a time(1 in,1 out in the direction that you need to go to get the wheels straight). This should help you keep your toe in pretty close.best of fun,crazyL

[gringoloco]

Good info. I will use this method upon reassembly and keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for the help. Will try to remember to update when it goes back together.

Thanks again -Chris
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[crazy longhorn]

I hope that helps,& I am sure the box should not cause you any issues(in good shape & properly setup). My old truck has been 2 times the legal limit + in Illinois on the open road....& not a bit spooky to drive Let us know how it goes,crazyL