1973 K20 Build Thread

[my4by2]

Love the build man - it's really coming along nicely!!! Keep the pics coming!

[1985-GMC]

Nice I cant wait for the pictures! It looks like more than 4"s doesn't it?

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by 1985-GMC

Nice I cant wait for the pictures! It looks like more than 4"s doesn't it?

Yes, it is a pretty tall 4 inch lift--even with the small 29 inch tires. I'd like to post a separate how-to thread on doing the 4 inch lift because there are some definite modifications that need to be done.

[TheWhiteElephant]

Thanks for the comments, guys. I'm trying to keep this thread in order, but I'm jumping back and forth between stages, and I don't want to throw up pictures just for the sake of throwing them up. Once I finish the brake system I will do the ball joints/bearings/lockout hubs, and then the lift.

[Pop's C-10]

We'll be here..lol

[TheWhiteElephant]

Okay, so life happens and my plans have been juggled some. I was hoping to work on this thing one stage at a time, but I've been hopping around. I am currently in between painting the frame/re-doing the entire brake system/replacing ball joints (which I finished a couple of weeks ago)/and rebuilding my factory hubs. I have way too many photos to go through so I've decided to just start posting whatever I can with some descriptions.

I am doing all of this in my driveway with no special tools or presses. You can do this at home with a little extra elbow grease. You do not have to pay a shop to remove the ball joints or press them in. I ordered my ball joints from Rockauto.com. I saved over $50 by buying them online over the local parts stores. Rockauto.com is awesome. 3-4 day shipping and priced just right. I also got the spanner nut socket from them. I used all Moog parts.

[TheWhiteElephant]

I began the ball joint replacement process by removing the wheel hubs. I discovered both Spicer plastic knobs were damaged. One was broken, the other was cracked. I was also missing both gaskets on them--the paper one between the outer part of the hub housing and chrome piece, and the metal gasket between the inner part of the hub housing and the hub/rotor assembly.

A few of the allen head bolts and washers were also missing.

[TheWhiteElephant]

After removing the hubs/lockouts you can see the nuts and washers which must be removed with the spindle nut socket that you can find at one of the parts stores. You will then see the outer bearing.




Then I removed the caliper assembly. I had already disconnected the brake lines. I am replacing them with Offroad Design's extended stainless steel kevlar reinforced lines.

The pads were shot as were both rotors...

[bharrison1]

Man it was definitely due for a brake upgrade!!WOW!!

[my4by2]

Whew, those brakes were SHOT!!! Nothing a few new parts can't fix though - keep up the great work & keep the pics coming.

[TheWhiteElephant]

Haha! Yeah, I was wondering why the brake light was coming on and my hopes of salvaging the rotors came to a screeching halt after I saw this.

[TheWhiteElephant]

By the way, I had wanted to do one side at a time, but then gave in and did both at the same time. I started with the right side and followed with the left. You can see the new 4" lift springs already installed in the background. I'll post a how-to on that later...

[TheWhiteElephant]

Next I removed the 7 bolts holding the backing plate. You can then pull the axle shafts out...

[TheWhiteElephant]

Here you can see the axle shaft seal along with the copper washer and smaller spindle bearing seal. You can get the kit by Spicer. I'll post the part number later. You can also see the oil slinger/deflector that goes pressed into the axle shaft. It is on the left. You don't need to replace these if yours are in good shape. Mine looked really good so I just cleaned them up.




This is what your axle housing should look like if your inner axle shaft seals are in good shape and working properly...




There should be no signs of oil or grease around that part of the axle housing. The left side was another story, you'll see shortly.

Then I removed the lower ball joint nut and the upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nut. I sprayed good ol' PB Blaster in there just to loosen things up.






Here is a view of the spanner nut that you will see once you remove the upper ball joint castle nut. The new ball joint comes with a replacement spanner nut so go ahead and remove it. You need the correct spanner socket. I got mine from RockAuto.

[TheWhiteElephant]

Next I removed the lower ball joint snap ring.



Then I removed the tie bar. I used a pickle fork because I didn't have the correct tie rod removal tool, but I should have just gone out and bought it. It is inexpensive and would have saved the tie rod boots.



Then I used the pickle fork to loosen the ball joints so that the spindle could be removed. TIP: Put the upper ball joint castle nut back on and finger tighten it so that when the ball joints break loose, the spindle won't crash onto the ground or your feet.

You can also smack the "C" part of the axle housing right beside the ball joint with a 4 lb sledge and the ball joints should loosen with the vibration. You can do this if you don't have the pickle fork. Both ways will work.




Now you can press the ball joints out. I am doing all of this in my driveway without any presses or special tools. I will show you how to do this with nothing but elbow grease and a little muscle.

Here is the ball joint press that you will need along with the OTHER set of spacers. You need BOTH of these. They can both be rented from the parts stores or you can get them from Harbor Freight or various other places. Just make sure you get the 4X4 kit because YOU WILL NEED THE EXTRA SPACERS!!! Harbor Freight has the 4X4 set which contains all the parts of both sets below.

[my4by2]

Since you've got it all apart - upgrade your steering set-up to a cross over system. It'll require a 2WD gear box most times, but makes a TON of difference in the handling - especially with a lift!

Something like this maybe:
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-6...3163/3948/3950

[TheWhiteElephant]

Here are the ball joint part numbers...





I then moved on to the other side...





This is what you DO NOT want to see when you remove the axle shafts. My plans were to "just" replace the ball joints, but as I learned, you really should also replace the inner axle shaft seals. These are the ones that are pressed into the inner axle housing at the differential housing. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. I almost didn't do this, but you will see why my better judgement prevailed. This is a sign that your inner axle shaft seals are bad and need replacing. The gear lube leaked all the way from the differential out to the outer axle housing on the end of the left axle shaft...





Here I started to remove the lower ball joint on my "shop table". I used the press and a 1/2" breaker bar. You will turn it until you hear it snap. At this point it will break loose and you just keep turning the press. The trick is to hold the part of the spindle with your left hand and tighten the ball joint press on the breaker bar with your right arm. You will feel the correct leverage. I'll post a picture in a while on how to do this.

[TheWhiteElephant]

Next is the upper ball joint...




Here I am removing the driver side lower ball joint. I used the breaker bar and my hydraulic jack handle for extra leverage. That joint was on tight but the jack handle made it a whole lot easier, and frankly, it wouldn't have been possible to do this by hand without that extra leverage.

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by my4by2

Since you've got it all apart - upgrade your steering set-up to a cross over system. It'll require a 2WD gear box most times, but makes a TON of difference in the handling - especially with a lift!

Something like this maybe:
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Dana-6...3163/3948/3950

Yeah, I thought about that but then I realized my budget wouldn't allow this. Plus, I'm going to be running smallish tires, and this will mainly be a pavement pounder work truck, so I should be good. At this point it wouldn't make feasible sense for my intents and purposes. My tires will probably be 235/85/16.

[Zane M]

Originally Posted by TheWhiteElephant

Something that has always baffled me is why GM didn't install drain plugs in the transmission oil pans. I bought one at Oreilly's and installed it in the TH350 pan.

Little late to the party, but great build!

Back in the day all the OEM did have drain plugs on the transmission pans. However, people were just draining the fluid, but not changing the filter. So, to force you to drop the pan(and while you have it off, you may as well change the filter), the drain plugs were deleted.

[MTCK]

Looks great! My vote is for 255/85r16's!
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[Pop's C-10]

piece by peice..coming along good man

[thirdstreettito]

Good work! Keep it up!

[BIGBERTHA]

Really nice truck man!! I can't wait to get out of Iraq so I can take some elbow grease to my truck. Keep the pics comin

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work! Did you get the axle seals replaced? Please tell me you're going to replace the axle u-joints while you're there too?