First Time Bagger.... trying to cup LCA's

[blazed870]

First, let me just say thanks to all of you for your input and help. That is what makes this site so great. There is no way in hell I would have ever attempted bagging my truck without all the knowledgable and helpful members here.

So here are some updated pics of my cups, now centered. They are just tacked right now. Getting the upper and lower ball joints today.

[Hottrucks]

Kool but make sure that the top of the cup is flush with the A arm or it will hit the X before the bag is aired out!!!

your X should be about 2" off the ground (29" tire) and LCA flush the the X too

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

But nothing is better than a well planned build with lots of measuring and knowing your tire size is critical I used a stock height tire (29 1/2") I have no issues stop to stop on the steering (even layed out)or in the bed tubs......I did alot of homework...and alot of what Blazed is doing finding people who have done it before with success...

Stock size for what? At most, these trucks came w/the equivalent of 235-75-15's which is a little over 28.75" tall.

[blazed870]

So I need to move the cups down further? Right now I have the part of the cup flush that is on the inside of the LCA. I have the cups in angled so it makes the outside stick up from the LCA. I was just going to cut the excess off after I welded them in, but if I need to move them down, I will.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by blazed870

So I need to move the cups down further? Right now I have the part of the cup flush that is on the inside of the LCA. I have the cups in angled so it makes the outside stick up from the LCA. I was just going to cut the excess off after I welded them in, but if I need to move them down, I will.

Keep them as flush as possible w/the top & bottom plain of the a-arm.

[Hottrucks]

I use the 29" # to keep a bit of room to the wheel wells

yes the pocket should be even ( not on an angle) with the LCA

[texastrendz]

This is a set i built before my dropmember. Be careful how low you drive the truck. I hung my truck up on a man hole with these and it was totaled. The control arm made it but bent the frame about 4 inches out and down about 6 inches. They now sit in my junk pile in the back yard.

[blazed870]

Good News - My bags are in, my tank and compressor are mounted. Just need to run the lines, and wire the compressor.

Bad News - I bought new ball joints for my upper and lowers. The bottom ones are a little too short. I was able to get the castle nut threaded, but not threaded enough to put the cotter pin in. Then I realized that this truck had to have some sort of a swap on it since it's a '70 and I have front disc brakes. I bought the ball joints for a 70 C10, Raybestos Professional line. So now I am thinking that I should try the 71-72 ball joints? Any ideas?

[Hottrucks]

I would get the 71/72's and a set of 87/93's to make sure..... those are the common swaps.... while your there pick up a pile of camber shims your going to need about 3/8" on each stud to bring your front back into camber....just add the same on each and your front end will be pretty close to start til you figure out your ride height..then I'll walk you though a quick/cheap alignment...chances are no shop will want to touch a bagged truck

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

^^^^ But a blown bag is not catastrophic....

Seriously? If your going to post this kind of haphazard advice, please don't post at all. Just because you are willing to prove your point by dropping a bag at speed means nothing. Does that apply to every truck ever built?

My truck was built to roll safely in the event of a complete system failure and it has. I still would not think to suggest that it is safe to operate if the system fails.

Please post in a responsible manner and promote safety at all times.

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

I agree but Blazed is running the same set up as I am so he'll be all Good!!

But nothing is better than a well planned build with lots of measuring and knowing your tire size is critical I used a stock height tire (29 1/2") I have no issues stop to stop on the steering (even layed out)or in the bed tubs......I did alot of homework...and alot of what Blazed is doing finding people who have done it before with success...

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Seriously? If your going to post this kind of haphazard advice, please don't post at all. Just because you are willing to prove your point by dropping a bag at speed means nothing. Does that apply to every truck ever built?

My truck was built to roll safely in the event of a complete system failure and it has. I still would not think to suggest that it is safe to operate if the system fails.

Please post in a responsible manner and promote safety at all times.

I dont think you read everything I posted....if it didn't work I would say so this way others can learn...I did TONS of homework for this build....just like I did a bolt in caddy swap and never touched the fire wall and have even pulled a head with out moving the power booster...HOMEWORK...this isn't my first Rodeo

[eightbanger]

I understand what Hottrucks is saying here, that with good planning and a hefty measure of homework during the build a blown bag shouldn't necessarily be "catastrophic" it's an emotive word in itself, a blown tire isn't necessarily "catastrophic" there would also be driver ability to take into account if either of these things were to happen. Lets face it if catastrophe was around the corner of every blown bag they would be taken off the market, and we'd still be driving on solid rubber tires.

Just sayin!!

[project 67 sub]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

If it still rubs after you bolt it in the center, you'll need to redo it. A blowout on a bag with cupped arms could be catastrophic and WILL happen if it rubs, it's just a matter of when. I noticed too that you're going to run a 8" cup. Using that small of a cup is going to make alignment of the bag even more crutial to ensure no rubbing since the bags ballon out with air pressure.

I saw (forgot the member's name) cut the pipe down the side and stretch it out to make the cup bigger, maybe look into that option if you need to redo it? It's better to be safe than sorry (or worse).

that would be me lol. let me see if i can find the thread and post a link to it for yah.





edit: here is the link. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=436787

[blazed870]

I saw your thread Project 67 Sub, but I ended up getting them in there with 8" pipe.

So I found the right ball joints, they were 71-72. Figures they would be the most expensive, lol.

Now I am starting to research shocks and possibly the shock relocators. I know there are some real good threads on here for the monroe shocks, but I think I still want to measure at dumped and raised, just to be sure.

As far as the relocators, are they a must? I mean do they help the ride out that much? I have been seeing a lot of people doing the rear, but less doing the front.

[Hottrucks]

check my post for the Monroe shock # that will go on your stock front mounts as far as the rear there are quite a few dif options all I did was flip the rear plate on the bottom of the trailing arms fro right to left and reused the stock shocks.... flipping the top around wil help with the angle but I havn't done it and it rides and handles well


also if your running a front sway bar your going to need to trim it a bit so it doesn't poke the bag

[Shane]

why don't you just tell him the shock number?

you are always telling folks asking for help to "check your build" ... why? just share the requested info.

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by Shane

why don't you just tell him the shock number?

you are always telling folks asking for help to "check your build" ... why? just share the requested info.

Because I can't remember every part # or piece ...... I have 5 vechicals 2 boats a car trailer and a 24' enclosed and a tri axle dump truck....I think I do well just to remember my name and I dont want to give a guy the wrong # have him order it and be wrong and deal with that BS if its wrong in the build or not there then I will look it up for them....and add it...like I did with the info on the front air dam I got from a 98 F250 diesal..lol

I think its a 5758 but not sure??? I know its from a 51 Chysler Imperial

[tubbedII]

You're right, Hottrucks, the monroe shock # you posted in your build is 5758.

Blazed, the new cups look nice and centered! Have you put air in them at all? The clearance looks pretty tight, and the DOMs like to balloon out, so just be sure to check it out.

[Hottrucks]

thanx Tubbed....

[blazed870]

Thanks Hottrucks for all the advice and knowledge, it is much appreciated. Do you have drop blocks on your trailing arms? I was thinking about going with 1.5" drop blocks so would those shocks still work?

Thanks tubbed for looking up the part number for me. I don't have the air hooked up yet. Damn, I didn't realize they balloon out. Hopefully I will be alright, but if they do rub I might just have to sell the fronts and get some slams I guess. I heard people run those with no problems.

Next project is my panhard bar. My friend gave me a panhard bar that looks like it is going to fit. It has heim joints on the ends and has a little bit of adjustment. I plan on making a bracket off the PS trailing arm that goes back to the stock position on pumpkin. Should I look into going further on the DS or should I be ok?

[Hottrucks]

No problem glad I could help!!

I made my blocks out of a piece of 1"x2"x5" then drilled out for the U bolts and welded in a piece of pipe to stop it from crushing the box....it works well but I saw some blocks inthe Speedway cat. for like $15...so if I had to do it again I would just buy them?? ( I just had all the parts laying around and I'm cheap) but yes they will still work if you flip the bottom mounts ( I suggest swapping the top too I havn't done it yet but it will give you better shock angle)

No as was said here before Make the bar as long as you can....mine runs from the bottom of the pass T/A to a box that I built on the D/S outside of the frame...I have about a 1/2" side shift total from dump to full ( with the pro streets I needed little as possable for clearance) and againI cut my stock bar slid a piece of pipe over it set the truck to ride height cenetered the wheels and welded it back up...Again I think theres a pic in my build of the P bar and blocks

Jeff

[blazed870]

Here are some updated pics. On the pic of the rear end, I don't have the bottom bolts bolted up yet on the bags, thats why they look crooked. My buddy gave me the panhard bar and I was going to build a bracket off the passenger side trailing arm, but today he gave me a bracket that bolts to the rear axel. I am mounting it behind right between the trailing arm and the drum brake. The rear wheels are the 10" wide rally's I found on my local craigslist. My little helper is proving they are 10", and he is pointing out the new ball joints. This job is taking 3 generations of Riley's to complete; my dad, my son, and myself. I wouldn't have it any other way. Take that back, its the Riley boys and the members of this website. Thanks again.

I'm on nights at work for a little while and then getting my wisdom teeth pulled the morning I come off of them so updates may be a week or two away but here is my checklist of things I think I have left.

1. Run airlines
2. Wire compressor
3. Install the 1.5" drop blocks I ordered from Way2lo2

3. Find someone to trade the 15 x 8's I have for the front for some 15 x 7's that I would like to run.

4. Buy new tires - BFG Radial TA's - (that's going to hurt the wallet) I may need some help determining what size tires to go with here guys.

5. Swap around rear shock locations and then either use the Shocks Hottrucks reccommmeded or measure and find some. If I just switch the lowers, then I am going with the ones he said. If I do upper and lower mounts, then I will measure and report back which ones I used.

[blazed870]

I got my airlines run today before work. I have a few questions on running the lines into the paddle valve setup. The red line is my line coming in from my tank, I will use a T fitting to split it to the inlets. The green lines are the lines going out to the bags. Is this correct or am I completely wrong? Thanks guys

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by blazed870

I got my airlines run today before work. I have a few questions on running the lines into the paddle valve setup. The red line is my line coming in from my tank, I will use a T fitting to split it to the inlets. The green lines are the lines going out to the bags. Is this correct or am I completely wrong? Thanks guys

That should be correct.

[Hottrucks]

10-4 good buddy