Electric Windows-Lets figure them out

[JMac11]

I know the electric windows leave alot to be desired in our trucks, but I a gnats hair from going to crankups. New Felts, new motors and regulators, new switches and still work like crap. Think I am going to try a AC Delco Motor and see what happens. Down is fine.... up stops about midway and then you need to nudge it.

Input on any of the options:

Windups
Window Channel( supposedly alot of wrong ones sold)
AC Delco Motor and or regulator
Wiring
Adding a Relay and hot wire

[71STPSDE]

I just had some new window motors installed and they work great. Much faster than the old ones. I got them from 1A auto. I also replaced the lock actuators at the same time. My old one stopped halfway down and had to get them replaced. I figure 25 years old, it was time.

[RandyP]

You sure the rear track does not need to be moved out a tad? Or push the vent window (with track) up a little? Sounds like you are fighting something on the way up. Gravity always helps when going down, but kills you on the way up.

[tucsonjwt]

I have had the same problem. The aftermarket run channels I have are thicker than OEM, causing friction on the glass, causing the window to go up slowly. Try spraying silicone spray on the run channels as far as you can down into the door. If that improves the window travel, then it is part of the problem.
If you go with AC/Delco motors you should search online for the two OEM Delco sellers who have free shipping over $25. Their Delco motor prices are less than aftermarket prices. I did get a Delco motor with a loose connector on the end of the motor (where the harness pigtail plugs in), so it is possible to get a bad Delco motor.
My biggest problem was a worn/ultimately broken wire at the switch connector harness. When your window is going up slow, try pulling out the switch from the door panel and wiggling the wires to the connector behind the switch (push in) to see it that improves the run of the window. Look closely at the ends of the wires to see if they are frayed where they enter the connector. You could also have a bad connector on the pigtail entering the motor, but that is less likely because that is a straight in blade connector and not as subject to wear as the connector at the switch.
Some here have posted that they had broken/partially broken wires in the rubber bellows between the cab and the door. This can cause intermittent contact.
My windows still go up slow when the engine is off. This appears to not be due to undercharged batteries, since I get the same effect with fully charged batteries. I think the extra amps from the alternator help to supply extra current to overcome any drains on the motor from any of the causes listed above.
On these old squares I would prefer hand crank windows. The only benefit of power windows is the ability to roll down the passenger windows to get some cross ventilation while driving, but I normally have A/C on if it is necessary to cool off, and I don't like street noise in my vehicle interfering with my radio/stereo reception, nor do I like the dust blown in by open windows. On new vehicles, I prefer power windows because they are more reliable/operate better than these old power windows, and usually come standard with the type of trucks and SUVs I buy.