New to vintage trucks. Tons of questions. Yes, I searched.

[Low & Slow]

After years of playing in all different arenas of autos I have finally stumbled upon a reasonable deal on classic pickup. After classic muscle, V8 swapped mazdas, cafe racers, and lifted jeeps the last frontier is a classic pickup.

A friend of mine had a 67 C-10 longbed with a swapped in 305 and Turbo 350 tranny that he was looking to get rid of for $900. I couldn't resist. The body mounts have all been replaced, frame is rot free, motor strong, and besides the doors and bed the panels look pretty rust free. For that price I think I did pretty good. Seeing as I just graduated, the truck is a little present to myself for finishing med school

After some brief searching online I found several options as to lowering her. Because I will also be using the pickup to transport my bikes and the occasional lumber load I am not looking for anything more than a 3/4 or 4/6 drop. Being the first truck I have ever lowered I wanted to check with you guys and make sure my proposed plan would be safe and adequate.

I was looking at a set of lowering spindles for the front with new shocks/ lower springs and some lowering blocks in the rear. I have heard that 4" is the most you can go with lowering blocks. Is this correct? I also some some discussion of leaf lowering brackets combined with junkyard leafs salvaged from other trucks to lower the rear. What would my safest bet be? Blocks or brackets? Stock or Junkyard leafs?

Also, I happen to have a set of vortec heads which came on a 305 which I swapped into a car years ago in the garage. What all is involved in swapping the factory units for vortec heads? Is a new cam needed?

Thanks a ton guys!!!!!!
I can't wait to tear into the project full steam.




Yes, the Master cylinder has been replaced.

[ChevLoRay]

from the Heart of Arkansas!

You've come to the right place if you're into the 67-72's.

Regarding lowering: Is the rear a leaf-sprung or coil-sprung rear end? If it is coils (normally found on Chevy's) then you can drop 'em 5 inches before you run into issues with the drive shaft and the crossmember that it goes through. If it is a leaf spring truck, then you may have to add a C-notch to avoid the hassles of the rear end and the frame coming into contact.

But, check out the vendors on this site. Also, go to www.earlyclassic.com and look at what they have. I am running their stuff on my '69, and I love it!

[mikey531]

Welcome from New Hampshire

[Low & Slow]

My bad guys, it is coil in the rear. Thats good though right? I can swap in Jeep rear springs and be good for 3" drop correct?

Talk about a more welcome. I've never had responses that fast. I can already tell this is going to be a fun project, first my gf fully endorses one of my undertakings and now you guys welcome me with open arms. Did hell freeze over?

[tooter]

If you use jeep springs hauling a load will bottom out easy, you can get much better springs cheap.

[MARKDTN]

Looks like a good truck. Welcome.

[70cst]

and from Ohio. I went with a 2/4 drop.

Some reading for you..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=331653

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=446765

[PanelDeland]

WELCOME!!!
Tons of ways to go about lowering.I suggest you look at a 2 1/2-4 using spindles front and springs rear.You shouldn't need a notch and the truck should sit level(unless you"rake" it with tire size).

[BlackTopMotors]

Sounds like a good deal, welcome. Not sure about your 305 question but someone here will definitely know.

[cpisani70@aol.com]

Welcome from CT. . You will love this site the help and support is awesome
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[capev86]

go w/ the 3-4 drop. will keep a little rake for that sporty look and you will still have some ground clearance so you can use it for its original purpose (as a truck). also, the 3/4 drop won't require you to notch the frame so save time, money and be able to put it back to stock if your tastes or needs change in the future. also, they make 3/4 ton lowering springs so you could run those in the rear and be able to haul loads without sag.

[hugger6933]

Welcome and congrats on completeing med school That is a major deal. now as far as lowering I would think about the 2/4 drop and on the vortec's if they are from a 305 and you have a 305 DO IT!!! I know on most average small blocks [i'm talking 350's now] the vortecs will add about 35-40 hp with no other changes. No you won't have to change cams but you do have to have a vortec specific intake manifold. I have changed to vortecs before and it will wake one up. They flow sooo well. Jim

[Low & Slow]

Thanks for all the tips guys! Keep them coming. I literally know nothing about truck suspensions.

I should have specified that the only loads I'll be hauling will be light, at most my 75 triumph. Will a 4/6 drop be too low to haul a bike on the highway?

More importantly, cheap is the idea. I'm blessed with a 40+ acre junkyard about 20 minutes away so I can pull basically anything on the cheaps. What would the ideal junkyard lowering kit consist of forthe rear springs? Can jeep springs be used for the front too? I understand the front will require some drop spindles and there's no way aroun spending that coin but the rear can be done low budget from what I gather.

I happen to also have a vortec intake manifold as well as the heads but it's a TBI unit . Are the heads direct bolt on swap? I've never broken a motor open, just bolte parts on. Do valves have to be messed with? Timing done?

Med school isn't the hard part, paying for the education and keeping he gf around is lol.
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[treveiger]

Welcome to the forum!!!!! I think you got a great deal on the truck.
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[67chevy1series]

welcome! thats a nice 67!!!!

[stsalvage]

why is it that every time i see one of these trucks the alternator is on the wrong side What do you people do with the brackets that come on these trucks.What do most of the people think when it comes to running more wires over there engines then they really should.Now back in the day there where no such things to Mods.Most of the time they where plain broke.I like a stock truck Cus There is not one person in this site and Has More time or more money to R&D program then GM did.Reason why these trucks lasted the longest Cus they made them basic.No use to reinvent the wheel. No need Reason why i'm so negative about mods Dose any one ever see any of these trucks that where in any or the trucking magazines or classic truck magazines driving on the road I don't all them mini trucks back in the 85--95 NONE reason why to many people put to many mods in to them to make them not work messing with and they get junked.All the trucks and car's that where left stock will be here for a long time.

Most of us in here when we find a truck that has not been touched we feel that we scored.

Now think if you found a 1971 Cheyenne and some one Put a fuel injected motor in it Put the computer in it shaved all the door handles and tail gate handle put roll pans in the front and the back did a full on Air bag ride where they hacked up the frame and the bed and Hacked the wire harness.Most of us would just pass it buy and say we don't want some one Else's project.

If that was true we be building the 1976--2005 trucks Now.I'm not one to find or buy some ones hacked projects.So keep them as close to stock with the good upgrades like

Power steering,Power brakes, Disc brakes A/C 700R4 poise traction Lowering it all these are wonderful upgrades that i like to find in a truck that some one has started.

But i say keep it basic if you want a new truck feel buy a new truck.I'm not one for shaved anything I've bought over 40 of these trucks from 1964--72 and I've junked 15 cabs from people and there stupid mods cost me more to fix it then it would to find me another cab.In about 5 more years these truck will be a thing of the pass and the 1973--87 will be the new truck to hack up

[Low & Slow]

Wait wait wait I didn't do the motor swap nor did I mention anything about taking an angle grinder to one inch of the body or frame. She actually does have power steering already as a matter of fact .

I just wanted to make the stance a little more agressive and replace the seats. If the motor happens to be a 305 and I happen to have 305 vortec heads that's a direct bolt on mod.

If I wanted to follow hype I would have bought a beat Mazda b2200 and juiced it. I pride myself in being unique, first car in high school was a 71 road runner 383, three on the tree. Still have it in storage, still numers matching with factory paint.

Don't worry, I don't plan to do a single thing to the old c10 that cannot be reversed.
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[bw4sale]

First off, welcome to the greatest site on the net.

Secondly, it's your truck. Do what you want with it. Don't listen to mister grumpy gills up there.

Thirdly, I don't think anyone addressed your 4" lowering block question. Lowering blocks can be made cheap, but I don't think you can run that big of a block, especially with a 15" rim. You run into scrub line issues. You don't want the bottom of the shock lower than the lowest part of your rim. Major problems if you have a flat while driving. I've heard of people running 3" but that's with a 22" rim. I'm going to run a 2" with 17" rims and I'm a little worried about it. Get some good lowering springs. They're worth the money. If you need more drop, make a 1-2" block.

Hope this helps.

[Ironhorse]

First off, welcome to the best truck board on the internet. You won't find a better batch of folks more knowledgeable and more willing to share that knowledge than right here.

Secondly, really consider becoming a dues paying member, it will be the best $25 yearly that you'll ever spend. Allows you to buy, sell, and post want to buy ads which is quite helpful when looking for original parts for these older trucks or sell good useable parts not needed to your build.

Third, can't help with the lowering questions as I am in the other direction, stock heighth '71 4x4 Long Bed. Just wanted to say "Welcome Aboard" and you scored a nice lookin' truck to start a truck project.

[Low & Slow]

^ That was my next plan of action seeing as the lab is missing some interior parts and recenet trips to the junkyard have not yielded any. A membership seems to be my only option if I have any hopes of tracking down a glove box door and a new grille up front.

So lowering blocks are out for now. I have pretty much settled on lowering springs in the rear and new shocks. The front is where I am puzzled.

When I get time this weekend and get a chance to get under it Ill know what I am dealing with. If things are in need of replacement that will be the first priority. I know the exhaust, which has been made into side exit and is hanging from a coat hanger is in need of attention. I have a glass pack in the garage which will serve to pass inspection until I can decided on a exhaust I like. Any suggestions on a muffler which will produce a nice deep sound out of a 305?

Thanks again!

[chevy72pu]

Originally Posted by stsalvage

why is it that every time i see one of these trucks the alternator is on the wrong side What do you people do with the brackets that come on these trucks.What do most of the people think when it comes to running more wires over there engines then they really should.Now back in the day there where no such things to Mods.Most of the time they where plain broke.I like a stock truck Cus There is not one person in this site and Has More time or more money to R&D program then GM did.Reason why these trucks lasted the longest Cus they made them basic.No use to reinvent the wheel. No need Reason why i'm so negative about mods Dose any one ever see any of these trucks that where in any or the trucking magazines or classic truck magazines driving on the road I don't all them mini trucks back in the 85--95 NONE reason why to many people put to many mods in to them to make them not work messing with and they get junked.All the trucks and car's that where left stock will be here for a long time.

Most of us in here when we find a truck that has not been touched we feel that we scored.

Now think if you found a 1971 Cheyenne and some one Put a fuel injected motor in it Put the computer in it shaved all the door handles and tail gate handle put roll pans in the front and the back did a full on Air bag ride where they hacked up the frame and the bed and Hacked the wire harness.Most of us would just pass it buy and say we don't want some one Else's project.

If that was true we be building the 1976--2005 trucks Now.I'm not one to find or buy some ones hacked projects.So keep them as close to stock with the good upgrades like

Power steering,Power brakes, Disc brakes A/C 700R4 poise traction Lowering it all these are wonderful upgrades that i like to find in a truck that some one has started.

But i say keep it basic if you want a new truck feel buy a new truck.I'm not one for shaved anything I've bought over 40 of these trucks from 1964--72 and I've junked 15 cabs from people and there stupid mods cost me more to fix it then it would to find me another cab.In about 5 more years these truck will be a thing of the pass and the 1973--87 will be the new truck to hack up

Whoa!! Did somebody wake up on the wrong side of the bed?

Welcome to the board Low and Slow. Hope you find all the info you need here. It is your truck so enjoy it the way YOU want too!

[406 Q-ship]

Originally Posted by stsalvage

why is it that every time i see one of these trucks the alternator is on the wrong side What do you people do with the brackets that come on these trucks.What do most of the people think when it comes to running more wires over there engines then they really should.Now back in the day there where no such things to Mods.Most of the time they where plain broke.I like a stock truck Cus There is not one person in this site and Has More time or more money to R&D program then GM did.Reason why these trucks lasted the longest Cus they made them basic.No use to reinvent the wheel. No need Reason why i'm so negative about mods Dose any one ever see any of these trucks that where in any or the trucking magazines or classic truck magazines driving on the road I don't all them mini trucks back in the 85--95 NONE reason why to many people put to many mods in to them to make them not work messing with and they get junked.All the trucks and car's that where left stock will be here for a long time.

Most of us in here when we find a truck that has not been touched we feel that we scored.

Now think if you found a 1971 Cheyenne and some one Put a fuel injected motor in it Put the computer in it shaved all the door handles and tail gate handle put roll pans in the front and the back did a full on Air bag ride where they hacked up the frame and the bed and Hacked the wire harness.Most of us would just pass it buy and say we don't want some one Else's project.

If that was true we be building the 1976--2005 trucks Now.I'm not one to find or buy some ones hacked projects.So keep them as close to stock with the good upgrades like

Power steering,Power brakes, Disc brakes A/C 700R4 poise traction Lowering it all these are wonderful upgrades that i like to find in a truck that some one has started.

But i say keep it basic if you want a new truck feel buy a new truck.I'm not one for shaved anything I've bought over 40 of these trucks from 1964--72 and I've junked 15 cabs from people and there stupid mods cost me more to fix it then it would to find me another cab.In about 5 more years these truck will be a thing of the pass and the 1973--87 will be the new truck to hack up

Who peed in your cornflakes?

My truck has had the later accessory drive installed (mine was a I6 new) on the front of the engine. So my alt is on the right side (pun intended) and does not have the 2 mile long fan belt that has a habit of getting twisted and tossed. There is a reason that GM high paid engineers got rid of the earlier left side alt mounting. The overdrive trans makes the truck more economical to drive, remember gas isn't 34 cents a gallon anymore. Updating the driveline is not a down to resale, in most cases it is an added value to most but not all possible buyers. Do you run your truck with the original bias ply tires, cause that is what GM engineers designed it to run on, that should be the best driving and longest lasting.....in your logic.

To the OP, I did a 3.5/4 (heavy duty rear spring) drop on my truck to keep the load carring ability. I have heard negative comments on the jeep spring load abilities.

[Low & Slow]

So got a chance to tear into the c10 yesterday. Attempted working on the brakes. New master cylinder in, bled all the lines. No air left in the lines but still no pressure in the peddle. Gravity fed all the lines too but realized that I forgot to bench bled the master before installing. Would this be my culprit?

Also, some cell pics of the only rust besides on the fenders. How bad does this look?




Does this rear end suspension look factory to you guys? Something just doesn't look kosher to me. The PO was a mechanic so I really have no idea what is going on here. Everything painted in yellow looks as if it is from a later model truck. Thoughts?

[RenoKeene]

Welcome from Florida...very cool truck.
Some of the best truck people you could ever find are on this forum.
The $25 to become a member will be the best $ you'll ever spend on your truck.
I did a 2-1/2/4 drop with drop spindles (and disk brakes), stock front springs and shocks, 4" drop springs in the rear with stock shocks. Pretty simple and not crazy money.
Here's a pic of the front stance...
Good luck with your project!

[SCOTI]

Stsalvage..... GM engineers designed pre-72 trucks @ least 39yrs ago. I would guarantee there have been significant improvements w/drivetrains, suspensions, braking, & efficiency since then.

Dont believe it? Fine. Stick w/the original stuff. For the rest of the world, it's not "reinventing the wheel", it's about improving the design using the technology learned w/exposure to these trucks.

Low & Slow, welcome to the show. I would re-bleed the master by itself & then re-bleed the brakes. Sounds like you still have air in the system.

Lowering blocks are a cheap/effective way to drop the rear but they have safety limitations. With 15" wheels, you shouldn't exceed 1.5" blocks or the u-bolt nuts can/will contact the road in the event of a flat/blow-out. Larger diameter wheels will allow using a 2" block. I don't like anything taller for a lowering block (others have used 3" blocks).

Dropped spindles up front will require swapping to disc brakes. That adds cost to the project but is well worth the investment because it increases vehicle safety @ the same time.