swb 383

[05Gibbs]

i just bought a 83 shotrwide and i have a pretty mean 383 pump gas engine thats going in it and ive always had v8s10s and was expecting to see mid low 11s with this engine in a s10. its a 383 with forged pistins and trick flow 195cc heads its 10.5 compression and solid roller cam with either rpm air gap intake or big single plane and going to have 3500 stall with 410 or 456 gears anyone have any idea of what kind of times to expect?

[KQQL IT]

First youve got to hook it, then it 13.0s - 12.50s
Just a casual guesstiment

[ripdog28]

With a guess of 450-475hp i would say high 12's. If you get some suspension work and it hooks, Low/mid 12's. Those gears will take work to hook that thing. Coil Overs, W tires. Trans Brake? all this is a guess.

[05Gibbs]

it will be a leaf spring truck with caltracks and slicks at the track. no trans break

[KQQL IT]

cal tracs work good
my 73 does 1.67s foot braked with a similar 406 tho. Has done a best of 12.19@110

[Marv D]

If you make it into the 11's with those crappy TFS piece of junk heads...

Oh wait, did I say any of that out loud!!!

If those are the early 'twisted wedge' design... all I'll say is GOOD LUCK!!!

The second generation of TFS small block heads were basically a aluminum clone of the GM Bowtie Phase6 head. THAT was a decent offering.

So I'm with the ripdawg... unless everything go much better than the 'typical',,, high 12's

[team39763]

I ran 12.8@107 with a similar setup. I had 4.56 gears, 3500 stall, TH350, 28X10.5 slicks, 3800 raceweight, Lakewood slapper bars, baby hydraulic cam(226/228 .588 lift) in a stock 364, bad ignition/carb tune, and 850DP on a Victor Jr. I'm sure you're making more steam under the hood than I was, so if you can get your weight down and get a better take-off...you'll be running some low 12's or high 11's(or better). I ran that 12.8 with a 2.25 60ft, so obviously something in my setup was wrong.

EDIT: Get the Caltracs, they'll help a ton.

[05Gibbs]

my heads are the 23 degree heads. im pretty happy with them. for what i payed for them

[Marv D]

OK that's a different story . It's that first generation of "twisted wedge" CRAPOLA that has so many issues.

The second generation TFS head is (as mentioned) a clone of the GM bowtie Phase 6 head. I had some flow sheets / numbers for a LOT of heads but in this change to Windows7,, I lost a LOT of things too. (I'll keep looking)

The mid-lift flow numbers for the TFS and the GM PH6 were almost identical, but something as I recall was different up in the high lift range (.6+).... but the the Ph6 head went 260ish cfm @ .6 with a mildly ported 200cc port. That's pretty decent for a smaller port like that and (If I remember correctly) the mid-lift numbers were pretty decent too. I think those would be a nice package with a upper end street 383. And you have em ,, I agree build around them for now. But don't get married into components just to match the TFS heads,, keep future Faster faster faster changes in mind sp items will be interchangable on a better package

SO,,, You said solid roller,, so if it were me I'd follow the latest trend in cam design,, MASSIVE lift and moderate duration. You will need to find what max lift you can tolerate (both in the retainers / spring stacking etc.) and valve to piston clearance. Oh,, as a BTW... When you check VtP be SURE and check radial clearance in the pocket. I've been seeing / hearing of a rash of broken valves and finding witness where the valve pocket was not cut wide enough to accomodate a 2.05 and larger intake,, just a word of caution there).


Not knowing anything more than we see here so far... and assuming premium pump gas with a splash of VP red to 'juice' it up a bit for the track... here's what I'd look for to get you down into the 11's.. and,, JUST SO WE TARGET THE RIGHT et,, 11.49 and quicker,,, YOU WILL NEED A ROLL BAR, and a list of other safety items that will get deep in your pocket. So for now I'd target 11.5 and slower for ET.

I don't think that will be too hard with footbraking a 4500 pound flying brick. 575 to 600 flywheel HP should get you there.

I'd prefer a custom cam, but if you don't want to drop the $300 for the design service, I'd look for something in the .65 to .7" lift range with a standard .020 lash and keep duration DOWN as much as you can. There is where the design service will come in as it cam could be designed and cut to have nice soft ramps and not beat up on the valve train,, while keeping 0.050" duration down in the 255° range. Otherwise a shelf stock cam like the Crowers 00431 or 00432 and use a 1.6 rocker should work. Myself I'd use a shaft rocker system on it and have them built for 1.7:1 to get lift to .7,,, but that's another issue and adds $ in a big hurry.

I'd suspect you know 'street' with a 'true' mid-11 second small block in a 4500 pound truck is a novelity,, and not a daily driver motor. Well not unless you have realitives in the oil business
The faster you go the more things that move over to the 'consumable' list,, like valve springs, lifters, rockers, cam bearings, bla bla bla,,, it's a very slippery slope down the ET slip

[05Gibbs]

yeah its not a dd at all but i just want to keep it on pump gas and be able to do a little mix for the track. i allready have a cam that im going to use for now and see how it works its a crane 290. its 248/248 with .555 lift and i i have 1.6 rockers so if i did the math correct it will be just under .600 lift and im going to have to change springs and keepers on the heads anyways mine are set up for hyd flat tappet cams up to 540 lift. and may be putting some nitrous on it also. i have probe forged pistins but my rods are the thing im worried about. they are elgin 6in I beam rods with arp rod bolts. they are forged just not sure what they can handle. and im also up in the air on what kind of intake to run. im going to be shifting around 6500 so rpm air gap seems like a good choice sence it will be in a 4500lb brick but i dont have any experience with single plane intakes. i have always ran a regular performer rpm in most everything

[team39763]

Holy Shoot! Why's your truck so heavy? Mine was 3800+, only weight reductions was removed inner fender and underhood A/C system, and removed carpet. Also stock tanks were replaced with 16gal fuel cell.

[05Gibbs]

i dont know how much it weights. im just guessing its about that much

[KQQL IT]

My 73 is 4160#
Posted via Mobile Device

[Marv D]

Originally Posted by 05Gibbs

......... i have probe forged pistins but my rods are the thing im worried about. they are elgin 6in I beam rods with arp rod bolts. they are forged just not sure what they can handle. ....

Dont get caught up in the H-beam I-beam argument. If you find one expert saying I-beams are the stronger,, give him 90 days and he will be professing H-beams are better,,, and vice versa. As far as them being "Elgin",,, I don't know much about them other than they apparently fall in the same catagory as / are part of the same company / founder as "CAT" (if you do a internet search). IMO CAT doesn't even qualify for scrap matal!! Everything I have ever seen with the CAT brand logo on it for the SBC has been total JUNK. In that light I'd be looking for a better rod before I did anything. Today most all rods are forged in China and shipped out in bulk to be finished by some offshore, and some domestic brand names. I run a Oliver I-beam in my Nova motor, and cheepie Eagle H-beams in this latest truck motor. I wouldn't be surprised if both originated in the same Chineese foundary! How a rod blank is examined, machined and finished is what makes the difference between a $1700 set of Olivers, a $800 set of Eagle or a $300 set of rods. My gut says you get what you pay for in rods. I think your wise to question the Elgin stuff

[05Gibbs]

http://www.competitionproducts.com/S...uctinfo/SCR6A/ what do u think of these? dont have a bunch of money to throw at a set of rods and im not sure if i can use h beams being that its a 383 because my elgin rods are clearanced a little so i figure the h beams would be too close

[Captainfab]

Are your pistons designed for a 6" rod?

Scat does make a 5.7 I-beam rod specifically for a 'stroker' engine. You will still have to check the clearances, and grind accordingly.

I couldn't find a direct link, but the number is 25700P for the pressed pin or 25700 for the bushed pin.

Originally Posted by 05Gibbs

http://www.competitionproducts.com/S...uctinfo/SCR6A/ what do u think of these? dont have a bunch of money to throw at a set of rods and im not sure if i can use h beams being that its a 383 because my elgin rods are clearanced a little so i figure the h beams would be too close

[05Gibbs]

yeah mine are for 6in and yeah these are bushed with arp cap screws. they are a forged i beam rod