3inch spindles on 15in rim IMPUT NEEDED

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Hello, i have 15in alum flower mags and soon plan to plant them with a set of JDM 3in drop spindles.....

Is it true you must grind the lower arms in order for them to fit!? please say it isnt so.

If it is true? How much did you have to take off and where?? Pics would be great!

Pics attached are just some showing off at a j/y score

THANKS!!

EDIT: and no those stock bushings are not going to be used.....ever.

[piecesparts]

It depends on the backspacing that you have on the rims. I have some rims that I purchased from WELD that had plenty of offset and the rims cleared the arms without any grinding. I also have rims that I had to grind the outer edge of the lower are off to get the clearance that I needed.

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

It depends on the backspacing that you have on the rims. I have some rims that I purchased from WELD that had plenty of offset and the rims cleared the arms without any grinding. I also have rims that I had to grind the outer edge of the lower are off to get the clearance that I needed.

Im not sure of the backspacing, but as the truck sits stock, the arms clear the rotors by a hair,...... hummmm........ craaaaaappp

[one low c10]

I have the djm 3 in spindles with stock 8 in rallies and I only had to grind the new spindle. The very top of the spindle lightly rubbed the inside of the wheel, but the lower control arm wasnt an issue. I also have one coil cut from the springs too but wouldnt think that would make a difference. Just my .02

[Restrorob]

This is the area where most wheel interference occurs, A little grinding on the lips both front and back should solve the issue.

[87chevy.com]

be aware that that lip gives the arm strength... I cant remeber how much I grinded off to get my wheels to fit... needless to say after about 3 months, the arm failed right at the ball joint (up and down motion kept bending the arm since there is no reinforcement..) and when it broke, it put the wheel in the fender and the truck in a gardrail on the freeway... so be smart about how much you grind off.
clint

[GMC Guy]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

be aware that that lip gives the arm strength... I cant remeber how much I grinded off to get my wheels to fit... needless to say after about 3 months, the arm failed right at the ball joint (up and down motion kept bending the arm since there is no reinforcement..) and when it broke, it put the wheel in the fender and the truck in a gardrail on the freeway... so be smart about how much you grind off.
clint

x2! same happened to me, except i caught it before some catastrophic occurred.

[GVazquez]

just put a 1/4" spacer on it problem solved.../thread

[1LowToy]

Had to grind in mine more than I liked for the 15-8 rally wheel. As I recall the daisy mags don't have much back space and the lip on the edge of the wheel is thicker than mine.

I ground off quite a bit then I changed springs away from the half coil I cut off to some new stock ones. Then heated and treated those to 5/8" shorter. I think its about 3.5" drop and it may settle for a little more breaking in. Unlike most I'll never waste time with cutting springs again.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

be aware that that lip gives the arm strength... I cant remeber how much I grinded off to get my wheels to fit... needless to say after about 3 months, the arm failed right at the ball joint (up and down motion kept bending the arm since there is no reinforcement..) and when it broke, it put the wheel in the fender and the truck in a gardrail on the freeway... so be smart about how much you grind off.
clint

I've been trimming a-arms for 25+ years.
Never had one fail.

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Originally Posted by one low c10

I have the djm 3 in spindles with stock 8 in rallies and I only had to grind the new spindle. The very top of the spindle lightly rubbed the inside of the wheel, but the lower control arm wasnt an issue. I also have one coil cut from the springs too but wouldnt think that would make a difference. Just my .02

top of the spindle you say?? where exactly? top of the "C" ??

Originally Posted by Restrorob

This is the area where most wheel interference occurs, A little grinding on the lips both front and back should solve the issue.

Perfect illustration! What do you think? Will that effect strength to an unsafe matter?

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

be aware that that lip gives the arm strength... I cant remeber how much I grinded off to get my wheels to fit... needless to say after about 3 months, the arm failed right at the ball joint (up and down motion kept bending the arm since there is no reinforcement..) and when it broke, it put the wheel in the fender and the truck in a gardrail on the freeway... so be smart about how much you grind off.
clint

Your kidding!? dud im sorry to hear that, how much metal did you remove??

Originally Posted by GMC Guy

x2! same happened to me, except i caught it before some catastrophic occurred.

WOW!! now im kinda nervous.

Originally Posted by GVazquez

just put a 1/4" spacer on it problem solved.../thread

See thats what i thought, will that really work?

Originally Posted by lolife99

I've been trimming a-arms for 25+ years.
Never had one fail.

See thats what i thought too, whats the most metal have u removed???

THANKS EVERYONE !!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n

See thats what i thought too, whats the most metal have u removed???

This is one of my trimmed a-arms.
(directly below the blue tape)
This is enough to clear a 15" wheel with 4" backspacing.

It doesn't take much.
Trim,... then set the truck on the ground,... turn wheels left and right,... cycle suspension up and down.
Test drive.
Remove wheels and recheck everything.

[lolife99]

This is the lip that I remove,...

[cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n]

Originally Posted by lolife99

This is one of my trimmed a-arms.
(directly below the blue tape)
This is enough to clear a 15" wheel with 4" backspacing.

It doesn't take much.
Trim,... then set the truck on the ground,... turn wheels left and right,... cycle suspension up and down.
Test drive.
Remove wheels and recheck everything.

Originally Posted by lolife99

This is the lip that I remove,...

Thats alot of steel!! and never one failure??

[Restrorob]

He still has the upper bend for support, What he took off was just hanging around for the ride....

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by cr34t3d_by_d4rkd3n

Thats alot of steel!! and never one failure??

nope.
The blue tape was used to highlight where I did the trimming on the lower edge.

[lolife99]

What's the backspace on your wheels?
You might not have to trim anything.

[3r!c84]

i had to take the grinder to these places when i did my 3inch spindles on my stock 15x8 rallies

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I've been trimming a-arms for 25+ years.
Never had one fail.

I have done several sets with out any failure too. With that said, I also had a buddy that trimmed a set and they failed. From that point on I started boxing the bottom of mine.

The safest solution to this issue is run a 18" or bigger wheel.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I have done several sets with out any failure too. With that said, I also had a buddy that trimmed a set and they failed. From that point on I started boxing the bottom of mine.

The safest solution to this issue is run a 18" or bigger wheel.

Doesn't matter as far as trimming the a-arm lip. It just makes contact in a different location. The 18x8 TT2's I had w/5.25"bs required me to trim the a-arms on my 74 farther back than what I had to for the 15" ralleys before them.

I've also trimmed the lip on multiple trucks w/o experiencing any failures. I feel 3 key points to focus on are:
1) Avoid removing any material from the vertical portion of the arm. The vertical height is where the BJ area benefits the most for strength.
2) Drill a hole in the lip where I plan to terminate the area being trimmed (to minimize stress cracks).
3) No jagged edges. No perpendicular cuts. Everything needs to have smooth transitions (again, to minimize places for stress related cracks to form).

[N2TRUX]

I guess the answer is go with 20's then. I had 18's on my Blazer, but I was running trimmed and boxed arms. After that all I have had are 20's or bigger and no more issues..

[boatpuller]

wished i knew the back space of my 17's.they clear with ease.i couldn't run the stock rally's,they rubbed bad....sounds like to me,it's all in the back space.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by boatpuller

wished i knew the back space of my 17's.they clear with ease.i couldn't run the stock rally's,they rubbed bad....sounds like to me,it's all in the back space.

Correct!

[85gmcguy]

[QUOTE=N2TRUX;4709157]I have done several sets with out any failure too. With that said, I also had a buddy that trimmed a set and they failed. From that point on I started boxing the bottom of mine.

Same here.

[1LowToy]

Anyone have some pics of the boxed lower control arms. I trimmed mine too but I really don't like the idea without some reinforcement.

Note: The 3" spindle and 1/2 of a coil cut off was a bit to low with the 8" rally wheel /255-60 tire. It also due to the geomety made the lower control arm closer to the wheel and I had to trim more off of the lower control arm.