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06-20-2011, 12:57 PM | #1 |
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'67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
Hi everyone
I've been reading on the forum for a couple of weeks now and I can't quite seem to find much info for what I'd like to do (if possible). This is my first truck project and the goal is to lower the dually a significant amount WITHOUT bags and retain the bed load capacity. I don't know for certain, but perhaps 8" in the rear & 6" in the front. Most articles I see deal with airbags when it comes to the frame. What are some of the methods I can use to lower the rear of the frame without bags? I know there's C-Notching, leaf spring flips, and I've seen people "Z" the frame. What's my first step with regards to this decision? Do I determine my exact ride height that I'm looking for? I've attached a picture of the truck. ~ AJ |
06-21-2011, 05:10 PM | #2 |
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Re: '67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
Too vague of a question..?
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06-21-2011, 06:50 PM | #3 |
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Re: '67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
Drop spindles & shorter drop springs up front. Flip the rear on top of the leafs in the rear. This should get you around a 5" front/7" rear drop.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
06-22-2011, 12:19 AM | #4 |
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Re: '67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
So we're not talking re-engineering the rear suspension so much as re-locating..?
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06-22-2011, 10:09 AM | #5 |
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Re: '67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
Anything can be done. But the simple flip kit yields x" of drop (x = 1/2 the dia of the axle tube plus the height of the spring pack). It's still going to ride like an old C30 though. To get drop & improve ride quality is where air ride shines....
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 06-22-2011 at 10:10 AM. |
06-22-2011, 10:24 AM | #6 |
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Re: '67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
Welcome to the forum A-J. What your asking for is kind of a "have your cake and eat it too" scenarios. Trying to radically lower your truck, improve the ride "and" maintain it load capacity can be a complex request.
As Scoti mentioned, standard lowering techniques will get you down. If you want a better ride you will need to loose some the your load capacity, or add air suspension. Your best solution is a combination of all of those elements.
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06-22-2011, 01:23 PM | #7 |
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Re: '67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
I can deal with poor ride quality. I've built some imports (Sorry..!!) over the years that almost required a kidney belt for trips longer than 10 minutes. I'd for-go some of the bed capacity if need be. My goal would be throwing a couple of Harley's on the back. Gosh, I'm so new to trucks I don't even know my bed capacity stock. My books haven't show up from UPS yet. LOL
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06-22-2011, 01:29 PM | #8 |
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Re: '67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
Flipping the axle may severely diminish your load capacity without an extreme notch. My 67 has a huge spring pack, and if I flip it I am not sure I will get much weight on it before I am hitting the frame.
You will probably need a combination in the back. Maybe pulling some leafs, adding air bags as "helpers" and a notch.
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06-22-2011, 05:30 PM | #9 |
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Re: '67 C-30 Frame & Suspension
Can someone show me a good example of a flip-kit..?
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