Opinions on floor

[Denee007]

While working around, I noticed on the P side floor underneath was not in good condion. It was coverd by a thin piece of some thin metal, then the Driver side was kind of the same. Overall the floor is ok(written in lower case representing, not that great).
So, how difficult to replace the floorboard? I've done floor boards in my '67 mustang, so I'm familiar with spotwelds and welding in panels.
dne'

[Rude Dude]

If you did a mustang You can do the truck LMC has patch panel or full floors

[mbgmike]

It does not look that bad in the pics. I would patch it since the truck is already painted. a full floor replacement does not look justified from what I can see. A truck is lot easier than a Mustang. I hate working on mustang floors. i have done a bunch of them.we sell both the taiwan and american made floor panels and of course we make and sell our own body panels as well just for info.
There are many companies selling them however and all the vendors here are good. Your looking at less then $150.00 to fix doing the work yourself. If it was mine based on the pics I would patch it

[OrrieG]

I had a similar spot on mine, I just cut out the bad until I got to good metal and welded in a patch.

[Denee007]

Thanks ya'll! I'll take a better look tomorrow. The truck definitely looks much "easier" to replace the floor vs. my stang! May be a suprize though! It's one of these things, I'm here and I want to do it correctly within my knowledge experiece base. I see there's a new floor without the dropoffs for the steps? A new floor would be nice, but I'll look into the patches first. ; )

[dwcsr]

Take a look at the air box area as well near the lower pillar. If the floor is rotted at the spot it is more than likely the air box and kick panel area is pin holed.

[Denee007]

YIKES Dave! I need to remove the heater also. I'll be looking closely at it all tomorrow.

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Take a look at the air box area as well near the lower pillar. If the floor is rotted at the spot it is more than likely the air box and kick panel area is pin holed.

[mknittle]

It always looks worse than it is at first Most of us have had to path the floors.you said before that you like the MIG so just something new to learn get some scrap sheet metal and .025" wire and practice Make short beads and skip around don't let the metal get too hot or it will warp. You'll do fine
Mark

[reinmeister1951]

Check out www.metalmeet.com or www.allmetalshaping.com either group will help you with anything you need to know about fabricating sheet metal parts and patches. With a little knowledge you can make a lot of nice repair panels with minimal tools.
Doug

[Denee007]

So when it comes to the replacment of the sheetmetal in question, I"ll cut it out with a cuttoff wheel, nice straight lines~ then ; 1) do I buy the panel that matches it from a vendor, then cut what I need out of it? I cheated on the mustang by overlapping, but I've come a ways now, so this time will I 2)butt weld?

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Denee007

So when it comes to the replacment of the sheetmetal in question, I"ll cut it out with a cuttoff wheel, nice straight lines~ then ; 1) do I buy the panel that matches it from a vendor, then cut what I need out of it? I cheated on the mustang by overlapping, but I've come a ways now, so this time will I 2)butt weld?

Body repair ..At least where it wont be covered up{floor} if done right is always but welded.If tig welded there should be no gaps if it is mig welded a small gap gives better penetration. For a floor I would just use magnets to hold the patch.
Like I said before skip around and don't let the metal get too hot. I some times do two projects close together and skip back and forth to keep them cooler.

[Denee007]

now what do you guys think? I know how to proceed in removing the floor pans, but, what do I purchase? a little depressed~
dne'

[Denee007]

one more

[mknittle]

that would be easier to buy the patch panels.

[Denee007]

Would these be a start? just cut out of em what I need? I guess I can use the spare metal to form pieces for the deep parts? kind of weld em over the big holes inside and underneath the body?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQ...KQ3aMEWAXQ3aIT

[Trucknut57]

Denee007,
LMC truck has very good drawings of what pieces you will need. Page 26 and 27 of their latest catalog.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=26

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=27

[Denee007]

THanks Trucknut! I found my lmc catalogue too! ; ) Now just need to figure out what I actually need~ I need to place an order for other stuffs too!
dne'

[Indian113]

Originally Posted by Denee007

THanks Trucknut! I found my lmc catalogue too! ; ) Now just need to figure out what I actually need~ I need to place an order for other stuffs too!
dne'

You have a Vendor in the Houston area,he's competitive in prices and the shipping would be $0.00. Checkout the vendor list could save you a bunch as Lmc charges oversize shipping on the floor parts. Just my .02 good luck

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by Denee007

Would these be a start? just cut out of em what I need? I guess I can use the spare metal to form pieces for the deep parts? kind of weld em over the big holes inside and underneath the body?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQ...KQ3aMEWAXQ3aIT

Thats way over priced for just one even with free shipping

ours are only $56.00 each for Triplus it does not cost 50.00 to ship.


http://www.mcssl.com/store/mikesbump...a80f95f75d509e

[Denee007]

I just used that ad as example~ I wasn't going to buy them, especially after I saw them for less money. I'm not quite sure, but Dave Chapman's coming over tomorrow to look at my project and give me some advice, but I learned he sells parts for trucks? Anyway, maybe he can get the stuff I need. It's just so neat that he's so close by! I got to go clean up my garage! eek!

[Rude Dude]

You may also want to look at the rear cab corners too, proably hidden by the paint with flash light from inside. The stuff that collects in the corner rear area.

[Denee007]

uh boy~ I'll be in the truck tomorrow, and I'll take a closer look, and Dave Chapman said he's coming by to take a look! I did go under the cab looking/inspecting, but so far didn't see anything on the underside, but I didn't look that closely at the area you're speaking of. ; )

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

You may also want to look at the rear cab corners too, proably hidden by the paint with flash light from inside. The stuff that collects in the corner rear area.

[BigDan3131]

I think you should go buy a sandblasting unit and then bag your garage [sand goes everywhere] then get 36" masking paper and put a double layer over everything with paint on it followed by heavy gage plastic. Sand blast everything in the cab and the underside too. Or just call a sand/walnut blaster and see how much to do it without cutting into your paint.
From the look at things the water probably got into the cab braces and more than likely rotted them out too. So blasting it will really show you how extensive the damage is. Otherwise you will just finish the first set of patches and find more later on.

[sgtusmc]

Hey, looks like our trucks might have had the same bodyman. I see some sreen bondo work in one of your pic's. I could have screened 2 large windows with all the screen in my 59.

[Denee007]

Well, had a nice visit with Dave Chapman here at my garage! He got to see my old truck and all the problems it has despite a nice looking paintjob which kind of covered a bunch of flaws! I'm going to try and repair what I can without major surgery! So he's going to see about getting what I need in parts! neato! Thanks Dave!
dne'