72 K5 Blazer engine/trans swap 5.3/4L60

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Gunny Davis

I am going to have to fab up the motor mounts so I need some help with the position of the motor in the frame.
How do I find the proper height and angle for the engine before I fab motor mounts?

Motor mounts have been much more difficult then I anticipated. I read all the "easy adapter plate" advise on here only to find that my 4WD crossmember will not fit the 5.3. So stock mounts are out of the question. I have decided to go with some like the pic just need to find some 5inch c-channel for the box.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1318632365

Gunny,
Where did you find the attached picture? Did you end up making this style mounts? If yes, Did you happen to make a sketch or drawing of what you made with dimensions? thanks

[Gunny Davis]

"Gunny,
Where did you find the attached picture? Did you end up making this style mounts? If yes, Did you happen to make a sketch or drawing of what you made with dimensions? thanks"
--Honestly; I finally got everything bolted in using the pictured mounts and the Manifolds would not fit. I ended up getting some 1/4 steel from the scrap yard and having it bent to make the 5inch C-Channel. Then guessed at the motor position and had it tacked in. After all that, the manifolds ran into the top of the motor mounts.

So I called Pacific Fab and paid out the ass for thier LSX Crossmember swap mount. Mine being a 4x4 makes the Pacific Fab part the only option I could find to work. Everything bolted right in. I just had to drill quite a few new holes in the frame, and the bolts are so close together it made getting it all tight a severe PITA! I'll try to get some updated pics up soon

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Gunny Davis

--Honestly; I finally got everything bolted in using the pictured mounts and the Manifolds would not fit. I ended up getting some 1/4 steel from the scrap yard and having it bent to make the 5inch C-Channel. Then guessed at the motor position and had it tacked in. After all that, the manifolds ran into the top of the motor mounts.

So I called Pacific Fab and paid out the ass for thier LSX Crossmember swap mount. Mine being a 4x4 makes the Pacific Fab part the only option I could find to work. Everything bolted right in. I just had to drill quite a few new holes in the frame, and the bolts are so close together it made getting it all tight a severe PITA! I'll try to get some updated pics up soon

Okay, thanks for clearing that up for me. Those were your mounts. I guess you used the stock truck manifolds from the truck? Did you look at any of the other style manifolds? Thanks

[Gunny Davis]

Lots of mod work lately.
Shift linkage fit like a champ, just had to drill one hole in the frame to get the original linkage to line up.
Fabbed up some angle for new battery tray,
Mounted trans cooler
Ordered the Radiator hose splice with T for steam line from Stealth Conversions(JTR)... killed two birds with one stone. It will allow me to splice the upper rad hose from the Vortec 1.75 to the Radiator 1.5, and the lower 1.5Vortec to 1.25 Radiator I picked up from local parts store -pricey though at $20

still need to mount 99 underhood fuse block
Mechanical fan is coming out, Dual Camaro Fans and cold air intake on the way

I think I have made a lot of progress on the wiring. This is my biggest weakness.
I am sending my PCM to Brendan from LT1 Swap to get reprogrammed and hopefully I can get this beast to fire up.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1327805627

[Gunny Davis]

OK! so after tracking down wires one by one for weeks I found that my shift linkage had the Trans in R when I thought it was in Park... =no ignition.
A simple adjustment of the shift linkage and everything seems to work. Hopefully try first engine start tomorrow.

If any one has used the 99 Instrument cluster I need some help with wiring.
where do these wires go?
A4 Brn 41 Fused ign feed -
A5 Gry 1036 Serial data class 2
A12 DkGrn/Wht 1932 Trans shift select switch signal
B5 Ppl/Wht 1382 LED dimming signal

[Gunny Davis]

So I finally got the instrument cluster hung and all set up. All the gauges work and I am super excited. Can any one tell me how to turn off / get rid of the "Security" light on the Message window for the '99 cluster?

After hooking everything up the battery was dead after only sitting 2 days. The "Security" warning is the only thing I can think of since the truck has sat for a month and no problem till I plugged in the '99 cluster.

As you can see the glare is pretty bad... any suggestions on reducing the glare from the plexiglass?

[whitels1]

Nice work, I'm digin the gauges.

[Gunny Davis]

A little update

I decided to go with a SkyJacker Add A Leaf to raise everything up 2inches.(Needed the clearance to get the Engine crossmember off the Differential)

Front Springs- Had to cut the spring clamps off the front and trim 1/4 inch or so in order to get the new leaf to fit in.
Rear- had a local Spring Shop(Champion Spring in FTW) rework the spring for better fit and replace the friction pads

[Gunny Davis]

Rebuilding the spring packs was a pain in the ass but everything is done... well except for the Rear UBolt Plate the previous owner had welded and the repair snapped as soon as I toqued down the UBolts.
So I have got to find a replacement for the broken Rear UBolt plate. HELP!!

[Gunny Davis]

Found the UBolt plate at ATSsprings.com. Got every thing wrapped up and seems to work great and i got the clearance I needed.

This thing has been running so good and I have been completely impressed with the new power I have. Sounds great idles smooth... Untill.......

I fill up with gas and head for the Lake. Didn't get 2 miles and sputtered jumped twice and stalled. Started right back up and continued to jump and stall under a load like acceleration, even power brake or going up hill. I limped back home. It will sit and idle all day sounds fine but stalls if i try to punch it or take off. WTF????????

Really need some help on this one

[Gunny Davis]

Found the engine was throwing code P0135(Bank1 sensor 1 heater circut malfunction)
Did some research and found the common thread with this code is often Dirty MAF
Got some MAF cleaner and gave it a good once over
Swaped the L O2 with R O2 just to be sure.

Fired up and is running like a champ, no more codes and smokes the 33s
problem solved and back on the road

[hilljob26]

did it get rid of the security light as well

[Gunny Davis]

I ended up putting a cut off switch, under the dash, in line on the power wire, for the Instrument Cluster. I just shut it off if I park for more the overnight. Completely solved the battery drain problem.

[Gunny Davis]

Finaly got around to getting pics up of the Blazer after the 2" Add-A-Leaf front and rear.

[Gunny Davis]

Been driving back and forth to work and got some questions about Trans and shift points.

When I had the PCM done I asked that they allow for the 33" tires I am running.
The truck runs like a champ and shifts fine... I'm not sure the over drive is locking up; how can I tell this?
The RPM's seem to read very high on the stock instrument cluster but the engine doesn't sound like it is reving high at all??? Could there be an issue with the PCM flash.

[TchncnDen]

I already subscribed to your security light thread and I am having the same issue with the rpm's reading high. My guess is that the pcm was reprogrammed for a v8 signal when the stock output is four. That is just a guess though but going by ear the reading appears to be about double on mine, I also had lt1swap do my programming. Did you find out what this wire is, B5 Ppl/Wht 1382 LED dimming signal? My guess is high/low beam indicator but I haven't checked it out yet.

[Gunny Davis]

B5 Ppl/Wht 1382 LED dimming signal
Still no idea and left unconnected

Trans is acting funny and throwing TCC codes P0740 and 2-3 shift solenoid codes. Of course now I'm really regretting not having it rebuilt when I had the chance. I'm very concerned about the shifting cause its killing me at hwy speeds and gas milage.

[TchncnDen]

I had a performance tune done on my pcm and the tach output was set at 8 cyl. I had him reset it to the factory 4 cyl and now my rpm's read correctly. I highly recommend the performance tune, wow!

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Gunny Davis

B5 Ppl/Wht 1382 LED dimming signal
Still no idea and left unconnected

Trans is acting funny and throwing TCC codes P0740 and 2-3 shift solenoid codes. Of course now I'm really regretting not having it rebuilt when I had the chance. I'm very concerned about the shifting cause its killing me at hwy speeds and gas milage.

Test the resistance of each solenoid in the transmission (chart).
Go to the wreaking yard & cut a trans harness off (pic of mine) Label the ends (diagram).

Plug your new test harness to the trans & test all the components & get back to me.

[Jdubs71]

Originally Posted by Gunny Davis

Found the UBolt plate at ATSsprings.com. Got every thing wrapped up and seems to work great and i got the clearance I needed.

This thing has been running so good and I have been completely impressed with the new power I have. Sounds great idles smooth... Untill.......

I fill up with gas and head for the Lake. Didn't get 2 miles and sputtered jumped twice and stalled. Started right back up and continued to jump and stall under a load like acceleration, even power brake or going up hill. I limped back home. It will sit and idle all day sounds fine but stalls if i try to punch it or take off. WTF????????

Really need some help on this one

Hey Gunny how did that rear leaf spring anchor work out for you? I just bought a set and the square u bolts that came with my lift kit are too narrow. Did you have the same problem?
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[Gunny Davis]

Update:

Finally found the problem with the wiring that was causing the issues I was having with the Trans codes.
I was foolish enough to take a short cut and splice two of the power wires together. Anyway the wire was getting way to hot and burned out the joint causing intermittent loss of power to the Trans.

After running new power, every thing has been working great.

I still need to find someone local to flash the PCM to account for the 33” BFG’s I’m running.

[Gunny Davis]

-JDUBS71
I re-used the original UBolts and although there was not much room left... seemed to work ok.

I only orderd the Ubotl plate itself from ATS.

Sorry not much help!

[Jdubs71]

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[72MARIO]

hows that fuel pump set up working after all theses years ?

[twp1]

what did you do for headers? and can you send pictures?