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02-09-2012, 04:36 PM | #1 |
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Location: sacramento ca.
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UPPER and LOWER C.A. nut's torque specs?
Hey gang! I did a search but didnt find what i need...
I was wondering if anyone knew how much im supposed to tighten these ?? specs? Im finishing up what the previous owner started and have never replaced these on any vehicle before so need some help?? And since im asking dumb questions i assume the only way to get the lower arm ball joint out and replaced back in is to have them pressed in and out?? or is there a easy DIY way at home in a driveway? I see the top arm ball joint you have to drill out the rivets holding it in....
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Timmy D. "What that grinding noise?Don't worry about that it will eventually clearance itself!" 1966 chevy c10 Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485977 1954 ford customline H.A.M.B 54 Build Thread:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=622142 |
02-09-2012, 06:42 PM | #2 |
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Re: UPPER and LOWER C.A. nut's torque specs?
Having just done this and did my '68 a couple years back, here is what I do.
The cross shaft bushings, (pictured in your post), I put some grease on the internal threads. With the shaft mounted in a vice, I put the rubber seals on and work one side up over the "lip" on the shaft. I then put the arm into that side and then slide it to get the other side in. Then I put the seal back into place. I then thread on both bushings, making sure I keep the arm centered to the shaft (i.e. equal amount of threads sticking out each side. I thread the bushing up to the arms and start them a 1/2 thread into the arms. I then use an impact and slowly work each side in, making sure I keep thing even. When I get close to where the bottom into the arms, I impact them a little at a time and check how tight the arm is to rotate. You want everything to be snug and have some resistance to the arm rotating but not feeling like it's binding. It's not so much a torque value as a feel. If too tight, the ears on the arm pull in and puts a lot of binding load into the bushings and they wear out quickly. As for the lower ball joint, either a press (what I use) or you can get a ball joint press at most auto parts stores. They do a "loaner" program. As for the uppers, I make an X pattern with a cut off wheel and then use a air chisel to cut the heads off and punch out the rivet. Make sure you bolt the new one with the nuts on the top side (backwards of what you think it should be). If you have the extra threaded part sticking down, they can tear the ball joint boot. I rebuilt mine in a couple hours, not including stripping and repainting the arms. Good luck.
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02-09-2012, 07:25 PM | #3 |
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Re: UPPER and LOWER C.A. nut's torque specs?
Right on !! I was at the auto parts store renting a ball joint press as you must have been typing this LOL! I Dont have a impact at the moment but will try everything you said with hand tools and if need be ill get a impact from a friend...
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Timmy D. "What that grinding noise?Don't worry about that it will eventually clearance itself!" 1966 chevy c10 Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485977 1954 ford customline H.A.M.B 54 Build Thread:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=622142 |
02-09-2012, 10:10 PM | #4 |
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Re: UPPER and LOWER C.A. nut's torque specs?
Well got to dark outside to get everything done(doing install while on the truck) but did get one side of the truck done!
thank you for the tips , basically self explanatory.. I did find that cutting the rivets with a cut off wheel in a "x" pattern and chiseling worked wonders compared to drilling out the center then chiseling them like i read somewhere else!!! I appreciate the help!
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Timmy D. "What that grinding noise?Don't worry about that it will eventually clearance itself!" 1966 chevy c10 Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485977 1954 ford customline H.A.M.B 54 Build Thread:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=622142 |
10-21-2020, 07:04 PM | #5 |
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Re: UPPER and LOWER C.A. nut's torque specs?
Bringing this thread to the top so I can thank Chevy_Mike for posting his method of installing the lower control arm shaft bushings. I found it much easier to do his way than the way the factory says. It saved me at least 30 minutes of time.
Kudos sir!
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
10-25-2020, 09:24 PM | #6 |
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Location: Rochester NY
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Re: UPPER and LOWER C.A. nut's torque specs?
Old thread, but good advice never goes out of date. I'm getting close to reassembly on mine and this link is copied and pasted on my "how to" folder.
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