Newbie needs help removing drum on 64 C10

[Breadstick]

I have never really worked on drum brakes before but I'm pretty sure my front pads are shot. I am trying to get the drum off so I can check them but I can't get it to come off. I have read a lot of threads but I can't seem to find anything that says how to get it off. It moves freely but I can't get it off the hub. Please help me.

[1963c-10]

You might have to pull the hub with it. Some of the drums were pressed on. Remove the dust cap, the cotter pin & nut and the drum assembly should come off.

[Breadstick]

I tried that and it didn't work. Should I be able to get to the nut and cotter pin with the drum on? It looks like the previous owner welded a small section of pipe on top of the cotter pin and bolt.

[1963c-10]

Yes. Once the wheel is removed, you are looking at the drum. The center dust cap needs to be removed and then you should have access to the cotter pin and nut. Can you provide a pick of the the weld work the previous owner did?

[Breadstick]

The first picture is with the dust cap on. The second is with it off. It's hard to tell the distance, but I can't get the cotter pin out to get the nut off. I'm out of ideas now.

[SHutt24]

Make sure you remove that bearing buddy and you should be able to access the cotter pin.

[1963c-10]

Im guessing its a 4x4 with the hub sticking out like that?

[Breadstick]

It's not a 4x4. What bearing do I need to remove? I can see the cotter pin in the cylinder sticking out of the drum but there is no way to get the cotter pin out, or do anything with it the way it's setup.

Also, will I need a special socket to get this nut off?

[1963c-10]

It looks to me that the snap ring will need to come off the bearing buddy to remove it. Those I am not familiar with, but SHutt24 seems to know what it is. You will not need a special socket to remove the nut. It also appears that the drums have been rivited on. But by pulling the hub assembly, the drum will come off. If it is pressed or rivited on, I have it pressed off once removed.

[chevy_mike]

Umm... I have never seen anyone use a Bearing Buddy on anything other than a trailer hub. Very interesting... in a weird way.

Looks like you still have the stock rivets holding the drum to the hub. From what I know, you end up grinding off the heads and using a punch to pop them out. Then you can get the drum off the hub, have it turned/replaced and do your brake work.

As for the hub, I am not even sure how you would get a cotter pin in that, let alone get it out.

[FreakyMalo]

That section with the blue sticker needs to come off. It's an aftermarket bearing greaser. Is it welded? Try tapping the sides of it back and forth with a hammer and see if it'll wiggle off. Or grab the end with some channel-locks/vise-grips etc. Then find some stock dust caps.

[SHutt24]

If that bearing buddy is welded to the hub the welds will need to be ground off and you should able to just knock it off. Never seen a bearing buddy on a truck hub before, usually only installed on a trailer like chevy_mike said.

[Breadstick]

Found the dust cap. O'reilly can order it and have it tomorrow, so the saga will continue. The OEM one is on the passenger side, but it's pretty beat up. It might be a bit of a bear to get off.

[61K10]

go to a good auto parts store like napa, and find the help section. should be some caps there. take the bearing buddy with you for the right fit. also a wrecking yard. good luck

[markeb01]

Here's an image of the Buddy Bearing to clarify what needs to be removed:



Interesting I'd never heard of one of these before reading this post.

[Breadstick]

Thanks for all the replies and good information. My wheel bearing dust caps will be at the parts store tomorrow morning. I'll take the buddy cap off then and finally take a look at my pads.

[cori 64]

it looks to me that the rivets still need to come off!!! grind them off then that will be one problem down!!if they still dont come off bust out the cut off wheel!!!slice the whole drum in half!!if you cant get to the adjusters!!!

[Slow Build]

Originally Posted by FreakyMalo

Try tapping the sides of it back and forth with a hammer and see if it'll wiggle off.

I use a big rubber mallet and hit it hard. It's not like your going to use it again.

[A.T. RockDriller]

Take yer C-4 and kinda shape it into a cone...about 3" at the.......
Oh....
Nuthin.

[jocko]

now that's a sure fire approach! I'm with slow build, whack it with a big honkin hammer. Can someone tell me what the heck a buddy bearing is and why it exists?

[A.T. RockDriller]

Originally Posted by jocko

now that's a sure fire approach! I'm with slow build, whack it with a big honkin hammer. Can someone tell me what the heck a buddy bearing is and why it exists?

It's a pretty cool invention, actually...
For the most part...the best application for them is a boat trailer.
Guys that launch their boats off their trailer use them just cause it is a spring loaded thingy that ya pump up with yer grease gun....and then it keeps a constant pressurised flow of grease into the brg & hub assy.....Kinda keeps you off the side of the freeway with a wheel bearing failure when yer on your way to or from your favorite fishin' hole.

[jrisch]

Grind the rivits down and it should come apart without taking the hub off!!

[Breadstick]

I knocked off the Bearing Buddy with one decent hit and it came apart perfectly once I got the cotter pin and nut off. My shoes are good and the adjusters aren't too close together, so I guess it's time to bleed the master cylinder. My brakes work, just WAAAAAY too much pedal travel to make the truck stop.

[markeb01]

Unless you have air in the lines, the excessive pedal travel is probably indicating the brake shoes need to be adjusted. If the shoes are too far away from the drums it can take a great deal of pedal to take up the slack. I always ran the star adjusters up to the point they wouldn't turn anymore, which also locks the brake and centers the shoes in the drum. Count the clicks required to back them off to the point where they just barely touch the drums (while spinning the drums). Then repeat the process on the opposite drum, backing off the shoes on the other side the same amount of clicks. This way they won't pull to one side or the other.

[chevy_mike]

Yeah, all four have to be adjusted like markeb01 said. If you have a firm pedal but low, it's likely an adjustment issue.