1972 Chevy 4wd Longhorn Project: Never Ending Changes

[72BlckButy]

Looking good Ryan!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by wutnxt

Dude you got some game

Thanks man. Still have a ways to go to get to your level buddy.

Originally Posted by jbclassix

I had to look real close to see it! Sure is tucked in there!

Yes it is. It should look nice once all painted up. I only scratched my fire wall 3 times so far during this mock up.

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Looking good Ryan!

Thanks Nate. Your tot rod turned out awesome!

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Thanks Nate. Your tot rod turned out awesome!

Thanks buddy.

[wutnxt]

"Thanks man. Still have a ways to go to get to your level buddy.

My level?
Dude now your talking lets slammmmmmm that 4x4 and get down to my level.....LMAO**
Seriously dude you ave great game and this is a great build....can't wait to see it completed...

[Beat68CST]

Soo, I am at the EXACT same point you are, I literally tried a 7.3 intercooler yesterday evening, too narrow, then my grandpa gave me the same Dodge one you have today and it's tall as all get out!

What are you gonna do about the hood latch? I just bolted my latch up to see if it'd all clear and it ain't lookin too hot.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Beat68CST

Soo, I am at the EXACT same point you are, I literally tried a 7.3 intercooler yesterday evening, too narrow, then my grandpa gave me the same Dodge one you have today and it's tall as all get out!

What are you gonna do about the hood latch? I just bolted my latch up to see if it'd all clear and it ain't lookin too hot.

Well, I'm planning on cutting the hood latch from the mount and moving it 1-1 1/2" and doing the same to the hood guide plate on the hood. It's either that or move the intercooler clear down to the bottom of the support which means cutting into the bottom brace. I'm not going to do that because there goes the support and there brings more work in to play.

By the way, where's your build thread?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by wutnxt

"Thanks man. Still have a ways to go to get to your level buddy.

My level?
Dude now your talking lets slammmmmmm that 4x4 and get down to my level.....LMAO**Seriously dude you ave great game and this is a great build....can't wait to see it completed...

I've always had thoughts of doing a 2wd swb play toy. Shoot, that would have to be easier than the corvette! Maybe some day when I don't have any torn apart projects. Can that even happen?

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I've always had thoughts of doing a 2wd swb play toy. Shoot, that would have to be easier than the corvette! Maybe some day when I don't have any torn apart projects. Can that even happen?

how about a swb pro street with a cummins

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I've always had thoughts of doing a 2wd swb play toy. Shoot, that would have to be easier than the corvette! Maybe some day when I don't have any torn apart projects. Can that even happen?

Well if you are going to do that, why stop at 2wd? Make it a lowered AWD with a bed mounted engine, Maybe a stepside to reach it better or a flopper hinged fleetside bed. How much of a torque input rating do you need for a t-case?

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Well, I'm planning on cutting the hood latch from the mount and moving it 1-1 1/2" and doing the same to the hood guide plate on the hood. It's either that or move the intercooler clear down to the bottom of the support which means cutting into the bottom brace. I'm not going to do that because there goes the support and there brings more work in to play.

Don't some Corvettes use two latches at the rear of the hood? Wouldn't just two stock latches near the corners beyond the intercooler make everything work? A crossover rod or cable would tie them together. Just a thought.

[Beat68CST]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Well, I'm planning on cutting the hood latch from the mount and moving it 1-1 1/2" and doing the same to the hood guide plate on the hood. It's either that or move the intercooler clear down to the bottom of the support which means cutting into the bottom brace. I'm not going to do that because there goes the support and there brings more work in to play.

By the way, where's your build thread?

I never started a build thread because I knew I wouldn't be consistent enough or have the time to keep up on it.

I've taken pictures here and there throughout the deal but just never made a thread. I have a thread that has a few updates, nothin spectacular though.
Doing this 2wd with and Auto is proving to be a good challenge though! I don't have all the clearance like you 4wd guys!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Beat68CST

I never started a build thread because I knew I wouldn't be consistent enough or have the time to keep up on it.

I've taken pictures here and there throughout the deal but just never made a thread. I have a thread that has a few updates, nothin spectacular though.
Doing this 2wd with and Auto is proving to be a good challenge though! I don't have all the clearance like you 4wd guys!

Say what? The 2wd's are way easier than a 4wd. No front driveshaft or diff housing to clear, and you can get it in there without hacking up your original cross member.

Start a thread son!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Don't some Corvettes use two latches at the rear of the hood? Wouldn't just two stock latches near the corners beyond the intercooler make everything work? A crossover rod or cable would tie them together. Just a thought.

That could work. Those corvette latches are a sob though.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Well if you are going to do that, why stop at 2wd? Make it a lowered AWD with a bed mounted engine, Maybe a stepside to reach it better or a flopper hinged fleetside bed. How much of a torque input rating do you need for a t-case?

Don't give me any ideas!

[Beat68CST]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Say what? The 2wd's are way easier than a 4wd. No front driveshaft or diff housing to clear, and you can get it in there without hacking up your original cross member.

Start a thread son!

I didn't want to cut up my cab to build a bigger trans tunnel! Crossmembers are easy to come by, decent cabs are hard!

I'll start a build thread if you set me up with a big turbo so I can do compounds with my sissy little Aurora 2000!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Beat68CST

I didn't want to cut up my cab to build a bigger trans tunnel! Crossmembers are easy to come by, decent cabs are hard!

I'll start a build thread if you set me up with a big turbo so I can do compounds with my sissy little Aurora 2000!

What? Ever heard of a high hump? You spent money on a purple turbo? In that case you can afford to buy a nice primary! I've got a couple turbos I could sell you, but they aren't going to be free.

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by Beat68CST

I didn't want to cut up my cab to build a bigger trans tunnel! Crossmembers are easy to come by, decent cabs are hard!

I'll start a build thread if you set me up with a big turbo so I can do compounds with my sissy little Aurora 2000!

Hope they rebox the S300G's better than their higher series turbos.

[Beat68CST]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

What? Ever heard of a high hump? You spent money on a purple turbo? In that case you can afford to buy a nice primary! I've got a couple turbos I could sell you, but they aren't going to be free.

Nooo, high humps aren't as classy! ;D

I wanted to keep the truck as original appearing as possible since my grandma was the original owner from 68-96 when she passed away!

The Aurora I bought with a set of DDP "Stage 3" injectors and a fuel plate for $380, I couldn't pass that up! Aren't those injectors like 5x.013, right?

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by Beat68CST

Nooo, high humps aren't as classy! ;D

I wanted to keep the truck as original appearing as possible since my grandma was the original owner from 68-96 when she passed away!

The Aurora I bought with a set of DDP "Stage 3" injectors and a fuel plate for $380, I couldn't pass that up! Aren't those injectors like 5x.013, right?

I'm going to warn you, they will be dirty, hot, and may cause issues down the road. Stage 3 DDP injectors are none other than Bosch Marine 370s relabeled as DDP. Marine 370's are a 155* Spray angle 5*0.012" injector and you can not run over 20* of timing or you will cause issues in your engine. What fuel plate did you get with the deal?

I wouldn't recommend anything bigger than a 145* 5*0.012" SAC injector for your A2000, if I was the one selling you Ryan's injectors.

[Beat68CST]

Fuel plate is a 6 profile I believe.

This turbo is pretty much just a non gated S300 though, right?

[6lcummins]

Nope, if memory serves me correct, I got hung up on for asking if the the A2000 was similar to the S300G, and if the A3000 was similar to the S300. S300G is a smaller cartridge than the S300. They don't seem to like that people know they don't produce their own turbos.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm going to take a stab here, but I think A2000's are S200 series and the A3000's are S300's. 200's do look very similar to 300's though.

[Beat68CST]

Well ride on, thanks for the help/input guys!

Appreciate it all from the both of ya!

Anyway you might know of a exhaust manifold like the 24v ones that put the turbo to the front of the motor that has the right ports or am I gonna have to build one?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Beat68CST

Well ride on, thanks for the help/input guys!

Appreciate it all from the both of ya!

Anyway you might know of a exhaust manifold like the 24v ones that put the turbo to the front of the motor that has the right ports or am I gonna have to build one?

I have one that will place the turbo on dang near top of the #2-3 valve covers. I can post a pic of one if you want.

[Dieselwrencher]

No big progress this weekend. Between working on a semi and sluffing off with the owner, and Mother's Day, I didn't get much done on this thing. But I did manage to get the hydra boost on. It isn't done as I have to build a linkage to connect the brake pedal too, and drill 2 holes in the mounting plate to finish bolting it to the fire wall. I did find my clutch pedals and get them in finally. I also removed the large spring from the clutch pedal because I won't be using it. By the way, I had to go hydraboost because now that I raised the engine up and brought it back more, a vacuum type set up will not fit.




Getting ready to build the last charge air cooler (CAC) pipe.


2 steps forward, 3 steps back. I'm going to have to modify my engine mounting bracket to clear the PS line. Yeehaw!