4l60e vs. 4l80e

[laynrockers]

wanted to get some insight on the two with emphasis on my build.

I am doing a full porterbuilt kit on my 66. And i need to pull the trigger on a motor and tranny quick. My questions are regarding the size of the 4l80E and the modifications i will ned to make to clear the firewall, floor, ect. Along with my planned upgrades to see if i really need it.

The plan is a 2007 LY9 (going off top of my head might be wrong) this motor has VVT and is a great motor for gas mileage and a truck motor all in one. I need the truck motor for the accessory drive to mount the alt in the correct place.

Plans are just for a good tune, Cam, intake, 3" exhaust for now. But later on once im done hammering the truck around a while i know i will want to go with some type of forced induction. nothing crazy just looking for 400-450 to the wheels. For this HP and Tq range is the 4l80E necessary??

Thanks in advance fellas..

[laynrockers]

http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.co...pmember-oh-boy


here is somthing i found with another PB dropmember kit and a 4l80e

[BR3W CITY]

Even at mid 300's the 4l60e won't live forever, start to push 400 and it better be decently built. Well over 400 and it better be a race built tranny to live for a while. There are plenty running the 4l60e, but its not known to be a hulk.

4l80e's even in close to stock or stock form have very little problem holding 400+, and built they don't really have a limit, just depends on the parts and who built it. (besides, at 700+ nothing lives forever, just gotta pay to play)

My 4l80e fit with no modification to the firewall, all that was required was sliding the trans crossmember into the right place and drilling/securing the bolts. I'm not running a dropmember however.

[jtp67-72]

Originally Posted by laynrockers

http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.co...pmember-oh-boy


here is somthing i found with another PB dropmember kit and a 4l80e

That's my project and I am updating as we speak.....having to clearance floor..other guy says he didn't.....I know I am having 2......jim

[laynrockers]

Originally Posted by jtp67-72

That's my project and I am updating as we speak.....having to clearance floor..other guy says he didn't.....I know I am having 2......jim

Thanks for speaking up. I will read through your build and get caught up.

[jtp67-72]

Originally Posted by laynrockers

Thanks for speaking up. I will read through your build and get caught up.

Last page has most of the 4l80 issues...more pics when done...........jim

[Shon]

4L80 is a beefy trans, in that means it takes power to turn it. So depending on what you plan on doing with the truck you might think about that.
if wanting to cruise/drive it much and MPGs are a concern, you might want to look at the 60. I have the 6.0/80e combo and no matter what (how its driven or how long) it will only get 15MPGs. Not bad really but if I had a 5.3 then I would not put this heavy trans behind it, I would go with a 60e and probably get closer to 20MPGs if set up properly.
I have this combo for pulling the car/trailer; and have often thought about pulling it for a 5.3/60e for the MPGs but I know it will not like the TQ loss.

[jtp67-72]

^^^^^ I agree....4l80 is about 50-60 lbs heavier ..more rotating mass..but I will stay with it for now in mine...........jim

[Shon]

thinking about forced induction maybe to add more TQ and maybe that would help MPGs too, LMAO

[68GMCCustom]

getting ready to install my 4L85e and looking for input on tricks when you're working off of jack stands vs a lift. I bought a transmission adapter for my jack...but it sets the pan height at about 16"-18" off the floor. This is WAY to high to try to roll it under the truck with the trans strapped to it. I can set the trans/jack to tilt forward or back. I plan on sliding the 200-4r off nose first after I've disconnected it from everything.

So....got any tricks? Not sure I can slide the 85e under the truck and maneuver it up onto my trans/jack ...wondering where all this force is going to come from to lift it up onto the jack, and strap it down...so I can get it into position to bolt in on. Getting too old and weak I guess...

[jtp67-72]

Progress....finished clearancing hump.....raised hump 1 inch....clam shelled behind ......sneak preview of what's 2 come......jim

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

getting ready to install my 4L85e and looking for input on tricks when you're working off of jack stands vs a lift. I bought a transmission adapter for my jack...but it sets the pan height at about 16"-18" off the floor. This is WAY to high to try to roll it under the truck with the trans strapped to it. I can set the trans/jack to tilt forward or back. I plan on sliding the 200-4r off nose first after I've disconnected it from everything.

So....got any tricks? Not sure I can slide the 85e under the truck and maneuver it up onto my trans/jack ...wondering where all this force is going to come from to lift it up onto the jack, and strap it down...so I can get it into position to bolt in on. Getting too old and weak I guess...

Ya, its much easier to do with the engine out Putting them in together is way easier. If you don't have high jack stands (expensive, and I don't trust the "top" setting on most regular jack stands) it can be tricky...obviously a lift makes this a non issue.

I've used a furniture dolly to hold my trans (wood square with heavy duty casters) and could MAYBE squeeze it under the truck, with the exhaust out of the way, and jacked WAY up.

[68GMCCustom]

I hate to pull the motor to make the swap...but if I can't figure something out I may have to. For me its all about leveraging whatever tools I can to do the heavy work for me. Got the 200-4r ready to drop...so I'm getting closer

[BR3W CITY]

This is REALLY ghetto, but it works. Hook up a jack point to an engine hoist...seriously. If you can do it right (and not flip your truck over lol), you can get CRAZY lift.

[Mr. 250r]

4l60s are problematic after substituting cheap metal in for there sun shell although gm eventually remade it the correct way even though most people just buy an aftermarket heavy duty one regardless, i couldn't tell you how many 4l60's I've seen at my dads shop that are just regular drivers not even abused it has to be at least 2 a week minimum but like a lot of tranny's they can be built to handle a good amount of power

And here's there apparent torque ratings
The 4L60-E is rated to handle up to 360 ft·lbf (488 N·m) of torque.
The "MT1" 4L80-E is able to handle vehicles up to 8000 lb (3629 kg) GVWR with up to 440 ft·lbf (597 N·m) of torque.
The "MN8" 4L85-E is able to handle vehicles from 7200 to 16,500 lb (3265 – 7483 kg) GVWR with up to 460 ft·lbf (624 N·m) of torque.

I think you might as well go with the 80-85 to begin with if your gonna beat on that motor and then later add forced induction

[clinebarger]

4L60E's can be built to handle 500 ft.lbs. Without alot of "Race" parts.
Here's the parts list on a 4L60E I had behind a LS1 with a Magnacharger pushing 10psi that made 520hp & 500ft.lbs. at the rear wheels & lived with drag radials,hard lanches,general abuse.

Borg Warner 29 element forward sprag
9 Alto "red eagle" 3-4 clutches & kolene steels
5 Alto "red eagle" Forward clutches & kolene steels
GM heat treated reaction sunshell
Used "seasoned" 2-4 band
Hardened pump rings
TransGo 4L60E HD2-C shift kit
Custom 3000 rpm stall converter w/ anti balloon plate

The most important things are....Using a good low mileage core, A good rebuild, & a good converter.

I agree with BrewCity.....A "GOOD" stock 4L80E will hold some power.
But the stock converter built for a HD truck doesnt work to good on a high perfomance vehicle, Stock 4L80E converters dont like boosted engines either.

[Daaaanz67]

68 gm custom here is how I put trans on a floor jack by my self under a truck.this might scratch the pan a little though if you don't mind. First I would slide the trans under the truck on the floor. Have it in line with with bell housing facing the back of the motor.remember that bracket holding the torque converter on leave it bolted on so the converter doesn't fall out. Next slide the jack under the truck at the back of the trans as close as you can to the tail housing. Also have the handle of the jack out to one of the sides of the truck. Next your going to lift the back of the tail housing up as high as possible while sliding the jack with the trans adapter under the pan. Next your going to wedge your foot against the side of the jack to keep it from sliding back towards you grab the tail housing and pul as hard as you can and slide the trans up on the jack. I have done many trans install this way by myself and that's with out the trans adapter. Believe it or not the higher you can lift the back of the trans up and the further you can get the jack under the pan it acts like a kids teeter totter as you begin to push down on the back and pull this is pure muscle work so get a second set of hands if you can. Once on the swing the jack handle under the truck so you have room for the handle to move up and down oh yeah give yourself some room between the back of the motor and the front of the trans so you can get as much tilt as you can. This sounds crazy but better than pulling the motor and it works I'll stop babbling now.
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[Daaaanz67]

You can also just remove the torque converter to lessen the weight just make sure to properly seat the converter when reinstalling
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