Brake issue after lift

[BPNinAZ]

I had a buddy of mine at BIG O Tire install my 4 inch lift--which looks great--but when I got it back I had brake issues. He said it should firm up but I had to be very careful getting it home. It barely stops with a super soft pedal. They said they bled the brakes twice and then I bled them for two hours last night but no luck (gravity and pump). My buddy isn't a brake guy and doesn't know much past bleeding so I don't want to waste time and take it back to him.

I have multiple questions!! 1st question is...I've been doing research on the site and found there is switch on the combination valve that needs to be set. My brake light did come on during my bleeding sessions and I tried a C-clamp with no luck. Any good way to make sure this is in correct position?

2nd Q..I have a load level addition to the brake system in the rear. The installer made a couple brackets to retain this feature but can I bypass this? Is their air stuck in in this system?

I am at work but can add some pics later if that would help. Thanks

[Axle]

d found there is switch on the combination valve that needs to be set. My brake light did come on during my bleeding sessions and I tried a C-clamp with no luck. Any good way to make sure this is in correct position?

Usually there is a nub that sticks out (1/8" or so), if it has popped, it will be obvious as it sticks out significantly further. From memory, it may be a 1/2" or so that it sticks out. Take a block of wood and push like your life depends on it, it will "pop" back into place once you push hard enough.

As for your brake issue.

1. "..I have a load level addition to the brake system in the rear"
What be that contraption? And why bother with this? Can it be bypassed? If they put it in, it can be bypassed.
1b. Is it correctly plumbed?

2. Brake line kinked.

3. Damaged hard line when they forgot to loosen the distribution block out back.
3b.Damaged hard line up front when they forgot to loosen things up.

4.Brake line kinked.

Take a look at your brake rubber lines front and rear with the truck sitting there as it is, how do they look?

And yes, air could very well still be in the system, give it a good bleed again.

Alex.

[BPNinAZ]

The combination valve switch is only out about the 1/8".
The load leveler brake thing is a factory piece that from what I've read gives more braking power to the rear when the truck is under a load and doesn't come with all 3/4 tons.

I'm gonna give the bleeding another try tomorrow. How much fluid should be coming out of each bleeder?

[BPNinAZ]

Oh..and I'll sure check the hard lines througout...Thanks a bunch for the pointers!!

[spencer_41188]

try pushing the peddle fast and hard and coutinue holding hard pressure you may find that it will seep to the floor and that would be a master cylender issue and you may need to replace it and cheak the brake buster make shure theres no fluid in it wen in dout replace

that valve in the rear mine has been bipased and the rear likes to lock up from time to time i need to get a new one and plumb it in

[BPNinAZ]

I did try that last night as well. I kicked the peddle harder than I thought was good for the truck and my foot!!

[v30crewcab]

master cylinder could be crappin out, also they may have messed up the adjustment on the rear valve. its adjustable. just messed with mine the other day for more rear braking.

[BPNinAZ]

Thanks for the info! Where is the rear valve adjustment? Also, i talked to my guy and he said he had to replace the gasket in the master cause it was all chewed up. I wonder if it really is the master and the problem just was a coincidence with the lift being done?
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[BPNinAZ]

Thanks for the info everyone..replaced master and the pedal stiffened up with bleeding! Not sure what my "buddy" did but glad to be driving again
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