66 4x4 my sons new project

[argonaut]

Interestingly, while I assumed the 14Bolt would have a longer pinion than the 12Bolt, I just measured and found that they're ony different by about 1/4". Looks like I'll be able to use the stock rear drive shaft after all.

[msgross]

isn't the ujoint different size? If so they make an adapter u joint that's smaller on two lugs than the other.

[argonaut]

You're correct. The 1/2 ton stuff is all 1310 series in and out or the transfer case and axles. The transmission, and the 3/4 ton rear axle uses 1350 series. I'd like to convert to all 1350 series, but that would require new, custom yokes for the transfer case and it's not in the budget for now. It'll go in the list for future projects. Anyway I did pick up the 1310 to 1350 conversion joint from Spicer. The only bad thing is that it is built like their older type u-joints and not the newer, stronger type.
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[Raider Rudy]

I've created a monster
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[argonaut]

Just about have everything cleaned up and ready to put back together. So close to getting this thing back on its feet, er, uh, wheels!
Only have to fix the hub selectors, and decide whether or not to machine the right side knuckle for crossover steering.

[duallyjams]

It will turn better with cross over.

[quadzero]

Wow, now that's how you put back together anything. All clean and very well organized. Since you have gone this far, I say for sure go for the crossover steering. Seems to me you know what your doing and you have some great resources where you live. I would love to have the crossover system on my truck.

[argonaut]

My only concern with the crossover is that I want to retain the use of a front sway bar, and I've heard that the difficult or impossible to do wit the stock front sway bar.

[duallyjams]

I believe that front sway bars did not come on trucks until 73 that's when they went to a longer front spring. Your not running a long front spring so you could get away with out one or depending on what oil pan you be running and exhaust you can run a custom one behind the axle.

[argonaut]

James,
Good call. Although I have the 73 parts truck sitting right here I didn't realize the springs were 47" long versus 44" for the pre-73. You really think 3" shorter springs have that much torsional stiffness?

I might look into the custom behind-the-axle option. You know any vendors?

[argonaut]

Right now I'm still in the middle of the front axle rebuild. Waiting to get my right hand knuckle back form the machinist and looking for the right (cost effective) crossover steering kit. I also had to repair my cracked and broken plastic hub lockout selectors. I had a steel tube turned down to loosely fit the id of the selectors, then epoxied it inside, and drilled the pin holes. Seems to work pretty well, and these type of lockouts are kind of rare.

The rear axle is done, except for the damper brackets.

I also pulled apart the transfer case to inspect and reseal. It has been rebuilt before, and it does look like the rear bearing on the input shaft exploded once before because the rear bearing cap has a couple of ball shaped indentations in it... But the bearings and hard parts all look good. So I'm just replacing the oil seals and cutting new gaskets, since the guy at drivetrain.com said he can't get many of these parts anymore. I would like to put new shims in, but he said he can't get those either. Bummer.

Doing the same to the SM420. so far the bearings and hard parts look decent so new seals and gaskets.

In the mean time I just thought I'd outline a few part numbers in case someone else rebuilding similar stuff does a search!
(in general Napa carries SKF parts, and Autozone carries Timken)

Dana 44 Front Axle (with external hubs lockouts)
- pinion seal: SKF #15788
- axle seal: SKF #13165
- hub outer seal (wheel seal): SKF #25077
- hub inner seal: SKF #22311
- the metal and fiber gaskets for the Spicer hub lockouts came from quad4x4.com, and they were a little pricey.

Corporate 14 Bolt
- pinion seal: SKF #21955
- wheel seal: SKF #28426
- axle flange gasket: SKF #55350
- wheel studs (with disk brake swap): Dorman #610-189
- brake rotor (3/4 ton front rotor): 4885677

SM420
- gasket kit: Fel-Pro #TS5100
- front oil seal: Timken #7412S, SKF #12363
- rear oil seal: Timken #9613S, SKF #22340
- clutch pilot bushing: Dorman #14650

Rockwell T-221
- yoke seals: Timken #472164, SKF
- shifter seals: Timken #480954, SKF
- input shaft bearings:
--- front: Timken #207KD (with single shield)
--- rear: Timken #206KD (with single shield)
- idler shaft bearings:
--- front: Timken #02467-02420
--- rear: Timken #15126-15245
- rear output shaft bearings:
--- front: Timken #15126-15245
--- rear: Timken #15126-15245
- front output shaft bearings:
-- front: Timken 207KG (with snap ring)
-- rear: Timken 209KG (with snap ring)

While I'm in the transmission and transfer case I'll try to pull out part numbers from on the bearings.

[C/10 King]

Impressive! Very impressive, looking good Jason!!!! What part of the family did you take after to have all this talent? How come I can barely draw stick people?......and they don't even look good.

[argonaut]

Finally got my passenger side knuckle machined, ball joints pressed in, knuckles mounted, high steer arms installed, axles inserted, spindles loosely mounted... I need to strip and paint the caliper brackets so I can bolt them down with the spindles, I had completely forgotten about them! I also need to pick up a length of 1-1/4"x.125w DOM tube to make the drag link and tie rod.



Hub bearings are ready for grease packing tomorrow, and I reassembled the hub lockouts again after picking up some silicone grease to coat the ring seals on the plastic selectors. This should keep these seals alive for another 40 years.



Since I worked into the wee hours of the night it was too dark out for painting my caliper brackets. So I stayed inside, rearranged my work areas in the garage and started working on the transfer case. Lucky for me this T-221 is pretty immaculate inside now. But I didn't like the rtv type gasket sealer the previous rebuilder used on all the shim stacks and bearing caps. It was leaky and also the rtv that squished out was clogging up half of the oil passages to the bearing caps. I'll be using a spray on light copper gasket coating on the shims, and I'll be drawing out and cutting new paper gaskets/cork gaskets where they are needed.



The shifter rod seals has been staked in (who the hell knows why) which I found unnecessary and quite annoying. Annoying because it deformed the boss for the seals which would damage new ones upon installation. I'll all for staking disposable parts, like nuts and washers and things, but If anything they should have used some that rtv here. Anyway I was able to use a small steel punch to work these out. A little more light sanding and I think the new seals will go in just fine.






Got my space all set up to start cutting new gaskets tomorrow. Hopefully it'll all be back together by the end of the day.

[quadzero]

I will never get tired of these progress updates. You are so organized and tidy you could be building something for NASA. Great idea with the notebook. Something so basic and simple and yet I have little notes and numbers on random pieces of paper and cigarette packs all over the kitchen. The cross over steering is looking really well, btw. Note to self: get a notebook!

[argonaut]

Thanks for the kind words, quadzero. I do have some college buddies that have worked for NASA, but I passed on that opportunity... :-P
But yeah, the notebook is key. I just write everything in there, anything I read or think of or research, ideas. Then i can always go back to it. It looks pretty disorganized, but at least all the info is in one spot.

I got the transfer case mostly put back together. I think the copper gasket spray should work out pretty well. I also picked up a couple four foot lengths of DOM tube for the crossover/high steer. The front and rear axles are just about done, but my new lift springs are on back order until late October . I was planning on having this thing rolling around in a week. I may need to modify my plans.

[argonaut]

Finally the front is assembled. After all this, I just noticed one of my wheel studs has mashed threads...
But now both front and rear axles are ready to go back under the frame. If only the front springs weren't on back order for a month. Grrr



I was cleaning out the garage on Monday night and I found an old pair of front tow hooks. I can't remember what these are off of. Any help here?



The hooks that were on my 73 parts truck were flat. These kind of kink out at a 45 degree angle. I thought the 71-72's had a hook that sort of curled outward and was more pointy. So I'm not sure the origin on these.

Tomorrow night's work will be to button up the transfer case. I need to cut the gasket for the top inspection cover and drive in the new shift rod seals.

[argonaut]

Ah, google says that those^ are 80-87 chevy hooks.
What do you guys think. Should I use those or flat 73-77 ones like these:




I also didn't realize until just a couple of days ago that the 2wd and 4wd brake calipers are different. I assumed they were the same because I don't really see why GM would need to have two different castings. Now I won't be using the new ones from my 64 and it'll be one more thing I have to buy. blah.

[badpeanut]

These are '73-'80 Chevy/GMC and are a good stout tow hook:

[argonaut]

I finally buttoned up the axles today. Got everything torqued to spec, closed up the diffs, mounted the wheels and rolled them back under the chassis. It felt good to bolt them up and get to chassis back rolling on the ground! It looks like the front of the chassis sits about 2" higher then the rear right now. I need to mock up the motor, trans, and all the sheet metal onto the Fran to see how the ride highly site before I out new springs in. I think therear will need either a 2" or 4" lift spring.

I did also get the transfer case hung on new poly bushings. It's in there nice and snug.

Darkness forced me to stop for the day. I'll snap a couple photos tomorrow.
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[duallyjams]

What no update pic LOL


I know the correct tow hooks are pricey but I like the look of them over just a J hook.

[argonaut]

Pics or it didn't happen!
Finally its officially rolling around as a K20 pickup!



I wish this was a Dana 60, but hey, beggars can't be choosers.



New u-joints, ball joints, seals, crossover and high steer... everything!



Ready for disk brakes front and back.






Fabricated new emergency brake brackets and lever.



Transfer case in place.



Had to trim and re-gusset my front spring hangers to make room for the bumper brackets and the power steering gearbox.

[Chevy1TonFun]

Very nice progress!

[duallyjams]

I know you used rear hangers from a 73 & up frame did you use 52" or 56" rear springs. I would like to see some pics of how it came out.

[argonaut]

James,
I used 52" springs in the back. I can take a few more pictures this week if you like.
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[quadzero]

Originally Posted by argonaut

I also need to pick up a length of 1-1/4"x.125w DOM tube to make the drag link and tie rod.

Everything is really coming together very nicely. It all looks professional, especially your new steering system. I also need a new tie rod and was wondering where you got yours and what do I need to know in getting one made up for me. Just wondering because I dont want to get some "pipe" from the local metal dealer here. Keep up the awesome work.