New Toy!!!

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by king-918

521 w Britton
Posted via Mobile Device

Ok thanks man Ill give them a call. Mopar did you see my other reply to yours?

[mopar346]

Originally Posted by cmyc5575

Ok thanks man Ill give them a call. Mopar did you see my other reply to yours?

Yes, cam bearings and freeze plugs are not that expensive. In order to stoke the block it is my understanding that you will have to clearance the pan rails for rod clearance. THis involves grinding material away which will send metal shavings throughout the engine so that needs to be done before the next bath. Cam bearings can be successfully removed and reused but for the exense I wouldn't bother not to mention many times they are damaged in the removal process regardless how careful your machinist is. Freeze plugs can be removed more easily and can be saved but again for the expense I would not chance a leak. You also may have to rebore it or at least hone it depending on how much rust you have in the holes. Again this sends metal throughout the system requiring clean up. For the $30-50 you would save by reusing the current ones it's just not worth it in my view. The other componenets you have are not stroker parts so they are gonna be replaced in a stroker kit so no need to wash them.

I would argue that it makes no sense now days to build a performance engine without running a roller cam. The most cost effective way to run a roller is to use a late model block that is built for a roller cam. An older block from my understanding has to be clearanced for the roller lifter set up and the parts are more expensive than the kind used in the later block. I would start with a later block from the word go and you will be money ahead.

The other factor is you can make the kinda power you are looking for out of a 350/355, you don't need to stroke it. Yes, cubes rule and it's cool to say you have a stroker but in my case it wasn't worth the bang for the buck. I still contend build a solid bottom end with forged pistons and roller everything and make horsepower with the heads. Besure to plan an exhaust that will allow the engine to breathe and don't forget a convertor and gears that will work with the engines power band. Vortec heads are an option but my information tells me that the port work required to make them flow like out of the box aluminum heads would pretty much cover the expense of the aluminum heads. The exception of course is if you can do the port work yourself, many home porting jobs do more damage than good.

Your best bet is to find a reputable builder in your area and consult them and not relay on someone off of the internet, regardless of their expense.

The last small block I built (a year or so ago) used an early steel crank and balancer, a 93 4 bolt 350 bored .030 over (355), magnafluxed, shot peened and polished stock rods, speed pro flat top forged pistons, tru-roller chain and gears, comp cam and lifter package (488/494 214/218 if memory serves) and set of worked fuelie heads I had (screw in studs, guide plates, roller tip 1.6 rockers), molly push rods and a 70 Z/28/vette intake with a Holley. It specced out at 460 horses and just under 500 ft lbs torque. Not sure I believe the 460 but it definitely 400-425 in my opinion. I would easy recommend this combo for anyone wanting moderate performance, the cam selection might vary due to the vehicle. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by mopar346

Yes, cam bearings and freeze plugs are not that expensive. In order to stoke the block it is my understanding that you will have to clearance the pan rails for rod clearance. THis involves grinding material away which will send metal shavings throughout the engine so that needs to be done before the next bath. Cam bearings can be successfully removed and reused but for the exense I wouldn't bother not to mention many times they are damaged in the removal process regardless how careful your machinist is. Freeze plugs can be removed more easily and can be saved but again for the expense I would not chance a leak. You also may have to rebore it or at least hone it depending on how much rust you have in the holes. Again this sends metal throughout the system requiring clean up. For the $30-50 you would save by reusing the current ones it's just not worth it in my view. The other componenets you have are not stroker parts so they are gonna be replaced in a stroker kit so no need to wash them.

I would argue that it makes no sense now days to build a performance engine without running a roller cam. The most cost effective way to run a roller is to use a late model block that is built for a roller cam. An older block from my understanding has to be clearanced for the roller lifter set up and the parts are more expensive than the kind used in the later block. I would start with a later block from the word go and you will be money ahead.

The other factor is you can make the kinda power you are looking for out of a 350/355, you don't need to stroke it. Yes, cubes rule and it's cool to say you have a stroker but in my case it wasn't worth the bang for the buck. I still contend build a solid bottom end with forged pistons and roller everything and make horsepower with the heads. Besure to plan an exhaust that will allow the engine to breathe and don't forget a convertor and gears that will work with the engines power band. Vortec heads are an option but my information tells me that the port work required to make them flow like out of the box aluminum heads would pretty much cover the expense of the aluminum heads. The exception of course is if you can do the port work yourself, many home porting jobs do more damage than good.

Your best bet is to find a reputable builder in your area and consult them and not relay on someone off of the internet, regardless of their expense.

The last small block I built (a year or so ago) used an early steel crank and balancer, a 93 4 bolt 350 bored .030 over (355), magnafluxed, shot peened and polished stock rods, speed pro flat top forged pistons, tru-roller chain and gears, comp cam and lifter package (488/494 214/218 if memory serves) and set of worked fuelie heads I had (screw in studs, guide plates, roller tip 1.6 rockers), molly push rods and a 70 Z/28/vette intake with a Holley. It specced out at 460 horses and just under 500 ft lbs torque. Not sure I believe the 460 but it definitely 400-425 in my opinion. I would easy recommend this combo for anyone wanting moderate performance, the cam selection might vary due to the vehicle. Hope this helps. Good luck.

I like the idea of that last build you made. I done some reconsidering today and dont want to start shaving things down on the block to stroke it out. If i wanted to start the same build that you done, where do i start?

[mopar346]

Locate a good usable roller block 350, 4 bolt or 2 either one will do. If you plan to spin it hard then go with the 2 and splayed caps.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by mopar346

Locate a good usable roller block 350, 4 bolt or 2 either one will do. If you plan to spin it hard then go with the 2 and splayed caps.

I have this block in the pictures. Can I convert this over to roller and its a 2 bolt main?

[mopar346]

Post a picture of the lifter galley to make sure it's not a roller block. If it is not one it can be converted but the parts are more expensive and from my understanding there is a need to clearance the block in the lifter galley area. We can tell more with the picture some earlier blocks have the bosses for the lifter spider.

[cmyc5575]

Originally Posted by mopar346

Post a picture of the lifter galley to make sure it's not a roller block. If it is not one it can be converted but the parts are more expensive and from my understanding there is a need to clearance the block in the lifter galley area. We can tell more with the picture some earlier blocks have the bosses for the lifter spider.

Ok i will but cant until tomorrow and i will take some pics.