1977 k10 lq9 stepside

[tgs30]

I am just starting this project and I am already having trouble making decisions so I figured it was time to start a build thread. I have a 1977 c10 swb stepside, k10 swb chassy, lq9, 4l65e and a np241. I am looking to build dd/ beater k10 stepside that can occasionally tow a trailer.



I got a complete lq9 from a 2003 escalade with 110 thousand miles. The plan was to use Dirty Dingos 4x4 motor mounts and with the engine all the way back so I could use the stock cross member. I am considering changing cross members so I can add ac in its stock location later. I currently don’t have either driveshafts and will probably have some made so I am not worried about moving the motor back. What do you guys think?



K10 is 6 lug 12 bolt and corporate 10 with 3.07 gears. It currently has a 4” lift but I want the truck to be able to fit in my garage. Garage door is under 8’. I was thinking a 1-2” lift would work. Rear is on 4” blocks but the front looks to have lift leaf springs and 7” shackles. I have ordered 4.5” shackles but don’t know if that will get it to the hight I want. Is there an easy way to identify the what lift leaf springs these are? Below is a pic

[Greenlee]

Nice looking build!
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[tgs30]

I went ahead and ordered ORD's big block cross member. I am going to be switching to a h3 oil pan and this should allow me to use stock drive shafts.

I also ordered a new tank with baffles. I still need to pull the trigger on a sending unit and pump. Ac Delco sending units are pricey

Also, I ordered ORD's steering box weld on repair kit and some bushings. Hopefully everything arrives this week so I can finish cleaning up the frame.

[tgs30]

Installed ORD crossmember and finished clearing up the frame. I still need to switch to the hummer oil pan but my cracked truck pan has more clearance then I thought it would.

[tgs30]

It's been a while since I posted a update. I still haven't got to the engine swap.

I have been doing a lot of rust repair. Below are the pics. I have finished all of the patches but dont have any pictures with everything ground down. Ill try to post them later.

Bottom of the A pillars were rusted through.






Also had rust and debris hidden in the tip of my hood.


Does anyone have a good reason why I need to patch this section at the back of the cab? It is going to be covered by the bed and I dont think it serves a purpose.

[tgs30]

Truck looks a little different since my last post.





Also, got the cab on the 4x4 chassy.



Unfortunately, the rear body mounts are off by a half inch. Still not sure what I am going to do about this.





I am working on modifying my trans tunnel now and hope to be putting everything back in for the final time in the next week or two.

[tgs30]

My frame measures strait and the mounts look solid. I think I am just going to bore our the mount holes for now.

I also came across some very cheap black american racing wheels and 33" tires.



The wheels are for newer chevy's with 4.5 back spacing and the smaller hub bore. I was hoping to get them to work though. Does anyone know the exact hub bore size of 6 lug chevy axles. I measured them at about 3.5" but I was hoping to find the exact size. The new wheels hub bore is about 3" which I think equals 78.3 mm.

Yes I have searched but all of the below links show 73-87 1/2 ton chevy's as also having 78.3 mm hub size.

http://wheelhelp.com/Chevrolet_GMC_Bolt_Patterns2.htm
http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...#axzz2YEk6Gtwq
http://www.crawlpedia.com/bolt_patterns.htm

[tgs30]

Engine is in, wiring is done and she runs.

Been working a lot in the engine bay the last few weeks. Installed windstar electric fans and escalade truck fuse box. Still need to get a battery and a ebay silverado cold air intake.

Wiring


Fan and Radiator hose install


fuse box and computer mounted


Brakes are done.



I had to modify the brake pedal for power brakes.


This is how she sits today


I'm also waiting on a conversion u-joint and hope to take it for a test drive as soon as it comes in.

[tgs30]

Sorry for not keeping this updated. Ill try to get this thread back up to speed.


I found a passenger drop shifter and was able to make it work with the little room I have.

[tgs30]

I made sure I cleaned all of my vinyl real well and used duplicolor black vinyl dye/ paint.




I also found a good condition 80-87 dash pad on craigslist. I would have rather had the early 73-80 version but this one worked out ok.

[tgs30]

I sprayed the bed, wood strips and grill with raptor liner. This stuff was awesome.




I didn't like the way the el camino bumper fit and looked but was able to find someone parting out a stepside and now have a stock bumper and taillights.



This is where I also picked up the wood and wood strips for my bed. The wood needed some sanding but should turn out ok.

[tgs30]

I also cleaned up the engine bay some. The engine cover isn't the correct HO or Vortec Max cover but it works. I really like the way the fuse box turned out. The computer is hidden behind the fusebox on the back of the inner fender.



I took it for a quick test drive today and hope to finish up most things up this weekend. I need to finish wiring the rear brakes. Setup the parking brake. Mount my trailer hitch and a bunch of other small things. I hope to get it registered an maybe inspected next week. I haven't decided on how I'm going to register it yet.

As it looks like I am going to stick with bigger tires (34's or 35's) I definitely need new axles with higher gears. I am going to start looking for a 88-98 14bsf 6 lug with 4:10's and a dana44 with 4:10s. I think I want the dana44 for high steer. I already have a 2wd steering box. I think all dana44's with 4:10's are 8 lug but can't I use my corp10 outers?

[tgs30]

I have driven the truck a few times now and all has gone well. I still need to figure out a few wiring issues though. My front right blinker doesnt work but it works when the flashers are on. All my other blinkers work including rear right so I dont think its the blinker relay. The rear lights also go crazy when my headlights are on. Hopefully I can figure this out this week.

My Dikota Digital gauges speedo and fuel level are also off. I need to calibrate the speedo and it looks like something is wrong with my wiring for the fuel level. Once I figure this stuff out, ill install my cluster bevel and take more pictures of my interior.

I also installed my grill and front end trim peaces. The grill is an aftermarket grill I bed lined.


I also started bolting down the wood bed.



I am going to use L track for the side strips. I need to fab up l brackets to bolt it down.



I know my shifter came from a np208 truck but I thought the same shifter was used for the 90-91 k5's and suburbans with 241c's. I have been running the truck with the shifter all the way forward. I thought this was 2hi but after looking into it more tonight I might be wrong. Can anyone confirm this? Do np241c passenger drops go 4HI - 2HI - N - 4L?

[tgs30]

[tgs30]

The truck is now inspected and being driven almost daily.



My new desktop background.



I'll try to upload a video later this weekend.

[tgs30]

What still needs to be done.

I am still running 3:07 gears but have a 6 lug dana44 4:10 front and i'm looking for a 88-98 6 lug 14sf 4:10 for the rear.

I am also going to setup crossover steering when I switch axles.

My back sliding glass is missing the middle division peace that has the lock on it. I found a new kenco replacement rear glass listed for $50 near me. Has anyone had any experience with these? Should I give it a try or go with a used gm back glass for cheaper?

I'm also bought silverado fender emblems. Does anyone know a easy way to put these emblems on or will I need to take the fender off?

[LS-K]

Subscribed! Great build man. Sorry I'm of no help with your recent questions. I'm building an 82' K10 with an LS6 and have similar goals of what I want out of my truck when she's all buttoned up.

Any new pics of the ORD X-member with the H3 pan? I've got clearance issues as well.

Thanks. Looking forward to seeing your progress.