700r TRANNY SWAP HELP

[61memo]

Hello everyone im going to start my search for a 700r tranny for my 66 suburban is there a specific year that I need and will it bolt up to my 283 v8 thanks

[Bret B]

Just went on the hunt a couple weeks ago for "the" 700r4 transmission. First thing I learned was, everyone has an opinion as to what is best. Nearly all of them will work, but there are some which are "ideal". What I learned was, the '90-'91 heavy half-ton trucks, and some cars, have this transmission (see below picture). Ideal transmission will have a "K" on the side of the case as you see, and the additional cooling passage. If you look at the photo, you'll see the cooling passage as a rainbow at the cooling lines. Look at the input/return lines and see the "raised passage" that goes down toward the rear. Also, the ideal transmission will come from a V8 vehicle, and you can use a 2wd or 4wd. If you get a 4wd transmission, you'll need the longer shaft and a tailshaft housing. If you get a trans out of a V6 truck, that is fine, just rebuild it with all the V8 internals for a "stronger" build.



This not my transmission by the way, just a picture I borrowed from the net. I did manage to get 2, K-case transmissions, but neither have the additional cooling passage. Learned about the cooling passage after I got them, my mistake, but they'll work.

[jayoldschool]

Look for 1991-93 RWD full size GM cars. Caprice/Fleetwood/Roadmaster/Custom Cruiser. All got the strongest version of the 700R4 (named 4L60 by that time). Note that 94-96 use the electronic 4L60E. You don't want that.

[61memo]

Thank you for your info its very helpful my other question is do I have to cut my drive shaft? is ther any other mods? thanks once again

[Bret B]

You will need to cut down your driveshaft. Wait till you're completely done before doing that though. You'll also need a different transmission cross member as well as relocating it back a bit. The input and return lines will need to be extended as well, or at least I think they'll need to be slightly longer. A trans cooler is ideal and whether you route it through an appropriate radiator cooler, or a stand alone cooler is your choice. You will need a different shifter for the overdrive selection. Depending on which transmission you decide on, 700r4, 4L60 (electronic) will dictate which type of converter lockup you'll need.

This conversion is something I'm in the works of. I'm sure there are lots of others here who have put one in and have pictures to go with it. Even measurements and which cross member would be best used. I've only tackled getting the transmission so far. There is still a bit more to go before installation and getting wired up.

[Hx16457]

Just did this mod also (last weekend), I did have to cut my drive shaft only 2 inches & move the cross member and shorten my emergency cable to fit again due to moving the cross member closer to the rear-end.
I would recommend trying to find one (700r4) prior to 92, if possible.
It seems in 92’ the electronic speedometer was introduced via the 700r4. So if you get one after 92 it could have the electrical connection for the electrical speedo.. If you have a mech. speedo then you'll have to change the tail housing speedo (driven and drive gears plus connection housing) connection with a kit from Bowtie overdrives (or somewhere) about 80 bucks plus.
Also you might need a torque converter lock out kit, another 80 bucks plus. Then depending on the carb you are using and the TV cable bracket setup you have, you may need that (name brand carb) kit to align the TV cable properly. I have an Edelbrock so I needed the bracket for the TV cable that fit the 1406 carb. (JEGS I believe).
It does make a difference in the drive, and it is a lot of work!
Even more work if you have no lift!......... I had no lift, no trans jack either!

Oh my truck is a LWB C10, 1965 with 350 engine, and now 700r4 trans!
Do a little at a time, and keep moving forward....

[61_FL_Apache]

From what I know the early ones are non electronic and thats preferred..

[MisterC]

A very good resource:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=33266

[hotrodder]

I DID THE SWAP ON MY 63, EASY TO DO. I BOUGHT A MODULE FROM TCI TO TAKE CARE OF THE ELECTRICAL PORTION OF THE SWAP, AND A TV CABLE AND BRACKET FRM BOWTIE OVERDRIVE. GREAT ITEMS AND WORK PERFECT. BOTH CAME WITH EASY TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
GOOD LUCK

[tripleD]

i pulled my 700 out of 83 longbed 2wheel drive! direct hookup adjusted detent cable took out two piece drive shaft cut down one out of 83 and still drivin! couldnt ask for anything better even in gas mileage!

[61K10]

If i remember right there are 2 different in-put shafts (that go into the converter) one is 27 splines and the other is 30 splines as in most V8's. I ran a 27 spline behind a 468 BB in my nomad with a non lock-up TCI converter. was not a race car by ant means. was nice on the freeway with 3.08 gears. so if you get a trans without a conv. ck spline count before ordering one.

[doobiebro]

Originally Posted by Hx16457

Just did this mod also (last weekend), I did have to cut my drive shaft only 2 inches & move the cross member and shorten my emergency cable to fit again due to moving the cross member closer to the rear-end.
I would recommend trying to find one (700r4) prior to 92, if possible.
It seems in 92’ the electronic speedometer was introduced via the 700r4. So if you get one after 92 it could have the electrical connection for the electrical speedo.. If you have a mech. speedo then you'll have to change the tail housing speedo (driven and drive gears plus connection housing) connection with a kit from Bowtie overdrives (or somewhere) about 80 bucks plus.
Also you might need a torque converter lock out kit, another 80 bucks plus. Then depending on the carb you are using and the TV cable bracket setup you have, you may need that (name brand carb) kit to align the TV cable properly. I have an Edelbrock so I needed the bracket for the TV cable that fit the 1406 carb. (JEGS I believe).
It does make a difference in the drive, and it is a lot of work!
Even more work if you have no lift!......... I had no lift, no trans jack either!

Oh my truck is a LWB C10, 1965 with 350 engine, and now 700r4 trans!
Do a little at a time, and keep moving forward....

Hx16457 hit the nail on the head....for the extra installation parts like TV cable, cable mount, speedo adapter, and external and internal wiring harness I bought from Bowtie Overdrives.. Also like 61K10 says theres a 27 and 30 spline which is also important...Here's an important link..http://www.technicalvideos.com/what_year_700R4.phtml

[Hx16457]

Originally Posted by doobiebro

Hx16457 hit the nail on the head....for the extra installation parts like TV cable, cable mount, speedo adapter, and external and internal wiring harness I bought from Bowtie Overdrives.. Also like 61K10 says theres a 27 and 30 spline which is also important...Here's an important link..http://www.technicalvideos.com/what_year_700R4.phtml

Don't get me wrong i enjoyed working on Sally, and well worth it!
Just don't get in a hurry, do a good job, be proud you did it without putting some shop guy's kid through college & you did it yourself!
Also ask questions here we'll all try to help you!
Good luck, & enjoy!
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[cori 64]

My engine is slammed agaist the firewall!! do you guys think i could just move my engine forward for a 700r4 without messing with the driveshaft?

[Hx16457]

My 350 is in the forward mounting position! (LWB)
My one piece drive shaft measured 71.5", I had to cut it down to 69.5!
So it will just depend as to what you start with!
But like someone said up top, cut the shaft last, test fit it in there to be sure what you need!
Oh and mine was 27 spline, just FYI
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[bigdlb12]

Another thing to look at, is most 700r4 trans call for an electronic overdrive

you can make the 700 do a hydraulic lock up, making the 4th gear kick in like it is suppose to

[64longbed]

I got a -700 and has the letter MD8, will this one work?
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[Bret B]

If it has the "K" on the side and has the extra cooling passage with the MD8, that is a 700R4, and a good one for strong cases, from what I understand anyway. If it doesn't have the K or the cooling passage like in the photo above, I'm under the impression that would be a 4L60E. I'm not a transmission expert by any means, and I don't have any back ground in rebuilding them. I would suggest looking up the serial numbers through a google search and see what it comes up with to determine any specific information.

[64longbed]

Thanks Bret B, appreciate the info
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