Alternator Bracket advice on 66, 350 with PS

[msg]

I am looking to either replace the bracket I have or understand how to adjust it properly. I had a belt that was squealing bad and tried to change it and dang that aint easy with this bracket I have. Normally they loosen at the base to pivot and on the top brace to tilt towards the fan to loosen..not this one the body of the alternator is already right up against the bracket so it cant tilt inward.

So I had to remove 2 bracket bolts to the motor to get it to swing forward and removed the belt. I bought a new one and tried to install and it sounds worse than before because its not aligning properly to the fan pulley.

Geezer#99 has been a great help and passed this bracket along,
http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S...Short_Pump.htm
I need to check on whether or not it will work with the power steering I have.

Any others anyone can pass along?

Here is the closest Ive gotten to being aligned



Shots of the bracket I have

[akaupp]

On the 3rd pic, can you shim the front bolt (the one to the right) between the 2 parts of the bracket?

[msg]

Originally Posted by akaupp

On the 3rd pic, can you shim the front bolt (the one to the right) between the 2 parts of the bracket?

Yeah I put 3 washers in between that part of the bracket but the tension still distorts the alignment. Maybe a slightly larger belt?

[akaupp]

Might be worth a shot, I think I used 15xxx belts on my 49 that had the same style alternator bracket. It never made any noise, although it wasn't very happy at 8k rpm...

[Captainfab]

You have a mismatch of parts there. With the alternator on the drivers side, the belt should be on the crank pulley right up against the harmonic balancer, and of course the corresponding water pump pulley groove. The alternator being so far out is exerting too much leverage on those lower brackets, and likely will never be solid and not move. Of course this is assuming that you have the short water pump as should be on your engine. Some more pics of your pulley setup and water pump would help get this figured out.

[msg]

I tried replacing the belt with a larger size but went too far, wouldnt fit too loose. The pic shows the progression of belts so far. The bottom one was the origianal that was screeching, the middle is the 2nd try a bit longer and wider for maybe a better grip but was still too tight , and the last one is too big. So I'll go the parts store and buy a few more in the mid range between the middle and top one.




And here are some additional pics of the set up Captainfab, hope this helps. Let me know if it doesnt. Thanks.

[Rich 5150 69]

You`ll need to change the pulleys out to even get close to where he needs to be, here`s a pick of mine if that helps any double pulley on the crank, no spacing, its right up against the balancer, single on the water pump, not even sure mine is right but works well.

[padresag]

the Capt is right that the alt belt should run on the inner pulley. the p/s pump should be out further. the p/s pump is for a long w/pump
your w/pump pulleys do seem a little different to. what does the crank pulley look like.
looks like somebody cobbled the setup together to make a short w/pump work on that engine without the corresponding parts
ron

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by padresag

the Capt is right that the alt belt should run on the inner pulley. the p/s pump should be out further. the p/s pump is for a long w/pump
your w/pump pulleys do seem a little different to. what does the crank pulley look like.
looks like somebody cobbled the setup together to make a short w/pump work on that engine without the corresponding parts
ron

Ron it looks as if he has a long water pump....?

[Captainfab]

Those pics confirmed what I suspected. You have a long water pump, with a drivers side alternator mount which is designed for a short pump. I have no idea what sort of PS pump mount you have that someone cobbled together. I see stacked spacers and nuts. One problem you are going to have is that the OEM long water pump accessory brackets require the heads to have the accessory bolt holes, which your heads do not.

One way to fix your situation is to change over to a short water pump, pulleys and brackets. That is what these trucks came with from the factory. The pic that Rich 5150 69 posted shows a short water pump with the correct pulleys and brackets. If you feel you need to keep the long water pump, then I believe Alan Grove may have some brackets to help you mount your alternator and PS pump more solidly. With what you have there now, I doubt you will ever have a reliable, trouble free accessory drive.

[414banger]

for what it is worth i had the same problem with alternater positioning since i have the pre 69 double humps with no holes so i called alan grove coponents up and got a mid mount alternater bracket that goes on the passenger side the thing fits real nice i havent got around to the power steering yet but when i do i will call them again for the bracket for it

[msg]

Thanks for the info guys, I will Alan Grove a call and see what can be done.
Some history on the cobbling, I had the power steering added in January 2012 by a fella that mentioned that he had done that conversion before with 1973-1982 model junkyard parts gear box, power steering, lines and pulleys and aftermarket conversion kit.

Here is the breakdown that totaled $587

Salvage yard
From a late 70's Chevy Pickup I think?
Gearbox, Power Sterring, lines, and pulleys =$125

Classic Parts
Power Steering Conversion Kit = $60
Pitman Arm = $50

Custom Shop = $402
Install custom power gear box and pump
make brackets (which I think included the alternator bracket to the motor)
new belts
New fan since the original didnt have the right bolt config
new heater hose
weld steering rod
new coolant

For all of the years before I had driven this truck without PS this seemed like a bargain to me. Wish I would have found this site before, live and learn.

[T Smith]

FWIW, I wouldn't use that shop again.

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by msg

Thanks for the info guys, I will Alan Grove a call and see what can be done.
Some history on the cobbling, I had the power steering added in January 2012 by a fella that mentioned that he had done that conversion before with 1973-1982 model junkyard parts gear box, power steering, lines and pulleys and aftermarket conversion kit.

Here is the breakdown that totaled $587

Salvage yard
From a late 70's Chevy Pickup I think?
Gearbox, Power Sterring, lines, and pulleys =$125

Classic Parts
Power Steering Conversion Kit = $60
Pitman Arm = $50

Custom Shop = $402
Install custom power gear box and pump
make brackets (which I think included the alternator bracket to the motor)
new belts
New fan since the original didnt have the right bolt config
new heater hose
weld steering rod
new coolant

For all of the years before I had driven this truck without PS this seemed like a bargain to me. Wish I would have found this site before, live and learn.

This is the one I`d be concerned with....

[padresag]

bet you that was welding for the lower steering column(rag joint end). that is the usual welding on the steering box conversion
ron

[Captainfab]

The guy that did that conversion for you definitely did not know what he was doing.

[msg]

Gave a call to Alan Grove and sent the pics and got a run down on parts needed to do this.

Alternator Bracket 223L = $95
P.S. Pump bracket 402L = $75
Said to look at the PS pump and make sure there is a spot to bolt to on the back of the pump at the base near the High pressure hose that bolts onto the housing. If thats there then the bracket will work.

Double Groove pulleys
503 = $70
504 = $85

I am sick over this, trusting a shop to know their stuff. Which is why I am trying as much as possible to learn from you guys and do what I can myself.

Until I get the dough to get all this stuff I was hoping to get this belt to stop squealing cause it went nearly a year without doing this after he did what he did.

I tinkered with it some more and I think temporarily if I can get the slots in the existing fabricated bracket he did to extend back a half inch or so I get a better shot at aligning the pulleys for now.

So the slots that the bolts are in, what tool would I need to grind out the metal and make the slots a bit longer? Ive got a power drill, dremmel, jig saw, and saws all. Any blades or bits that are good for cutting that out?

[Rich 5150 69]

You might be better to go to your local wreckinhg yard, find any 70`s car or truck that has all the pulleys and brackets, and buy them, or someone on craigslist in your area even better, wave a 20 in front of thier face for everything, get pulleys, and all brackets, from a long water pump small block chevy, measure your pump from block to end and write it down, that way when your out you can confirm your pulling from a long water pump...Note you are going to find that the long water pump will switch your alternator over to the right side.
This pic borrowed from Greg65

[msg]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

Note you are going to find that the long water pump will switch your alternator over to the right side.

I was planning to add AC so that may be a problem.

Ill check the salvage yards and craigslist like you said, should help with the cost. Hope my motor looks as good as that pic when its done!

[Rich 5150 69]

They have left side AC brackets, so it will all work out...

[msg]

I went ahead and ordered the brackets and pulleys, and now the issue is that the power steering pump pulley needs a different pump to allow it to mount. Mine is a press fit, so I gotta shop for a power steering pump now.

[msg]

Finally got it all worked out, no more screaming belt.

Everything was pretty simple, just had to put a crease in the header to get the alternator bracket to fit.







Thanks for all help guys.