What's it Worth?? ('57 3200 Long Bed)

[fnsteffen]

I tried to post this on the general WIW board, but I'm not allowed to for some reason. Still new here obviously, and I'm not sure how everything works. Hope it doesn't tick anyone off that I'm posting here..

Anyway, I'm currently negotiating a deal for this truck, and I was hoping to get some advice from more experienced folks. Would y'all mind taking a look and letting me know what you think it's worth?

It's a 1957 Chevy 3200 Long Bed. It still has the original Stovebolt Straight-6 that ran when it was parked about 5 years ago. I doubt it would turn over right now, but I'm planning on rebuilding it anyway. The interior is long gone. The wood bed is still in tact, but not in great shape. The patina is pretty awesome, so I'm thinking about keeping that and going with the old "shop truck" look with a restored interior and engine.

What do y'all think? Need any more information to put a value on it?












Thanks in advance for your help!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

A moderator will be shutting you down soon. You're not allowed to post "What's It Worth?" "For Sale" and "Wanted To Buy" threads unless you're a paying member. And I'm not sure about responding to them either which is why I'll post no opinion.

Sorry to tell you but someone else will very soon anyway.

Unrelated to it's value, some guys are patina fans, some are not. Count me with the "not" crowd. It's not that I don't like how it looks if the patina is mild - faded paint, multi color. But when it's heavy rust like this truck I can't help but know the rust is literally eating your treasured truck to pieces. Personally, I could not stand to allow that to continue on mine.

[fnsteffen]

Thanks very much for the explanation. I'll check out the paid membership deal.

Regarding the patina, I've only recently started looking into that style, but I was under the impression that it was posisble to "neutralize" the rust and then seal it with a clear coat. Is that not the case? I definitely don't want to have it continue to rust apart while I drive it.

Thanks again. I appreciate your advice.

EDIT: I just got a year membership, so hopefully they don't shut me down now.

[entourageguy]

I've seen some good result using CLR and scotch pads.

[broey]

ill chime in, while some may not like patina, it's actually a good thing to see when buying a truck. let me explain why... when looking at any car or truck one thing everyone says is what does the body look like? has it been in a wreck? or is the paint new? something along those lines, but with a patina'd truck, you are looking at the original paint. so no hidden bondo jobs or crappy patch panels anywhere that were hidden until you media blast the truck after you get it home and have paid. so, the real car buyers out there will actually look for original paint. its a way better indicator of the trucks life than anything else. I hope that makes sense. plus, patina is just sun burn with a top coat of rust, absolutely nothing to be affraid of.

now as far as the truck in general, small window, long bed, non optioned, inline 235 are all important to think about when buying a truck(unless you wanted a long bed that cant go on the freeway) those are all things that are less desirable as far as value/resale goes.

the good things going for it are, single headlight, seems to have everything with it still, and original paint

now as far as rust. look at the cab corners, and look inside the hinge pockets on the door hinges, those are the two places that are most common to rust. The hinge pockets are a pain in the butt to repair, and the cab corners will ruin the patina, because you will have to cut and weld. so check those out.

all said and done, if the 235 is at least free, its going to run those things are indestructible.

if the cab corners are rusted, the interior is shot, and the motor wont start. $1000 tops
no rust, motor atleast rotates, and the interior is in it and atleast usable $1500-$2000

[broey]

on a side note, if it were my truck, I would:
fix the glass
shorten the frame
cut the bed sides at the cab to shorten the box
replace the brakes, fuel system and get the motor running
drop axle up front and flip kit in the back
wide whites on the original wheels
remove the rear bumper for a swap meet find bumper in white
and re-wrap the seat

those are all budget friendly and will make one bada$$ truck.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by entourageguy

I've seen some good result using CLR and scotch pads.

fnsteffen - Just so you know the CLR removes the majority of the rust and the rusty look but does expose the paint patina. But to keep the rust from coming back you'll have to rattle can on some flat or satin clear.
Posted via Mobile Device

[dubie]

that truck, sitting in it's current condition, not running would fetch $1500 all day long. With a bit of elbow grease in getting it running, driving stopping and some rust touch up, you'll easily double that amount or more. The CLR and scotch brite pad works great to remove the rust and expose the raw material underneath but as Dan mentioned, you'll have to lock it it with some adhesion promoter and some satin clear

[mr48chev]

I sold a GMC Big window with about the same amount of rust and a nice chrome grill and bumper for 300 a couple of years ago and had a hard time getting that. I'm not a fan of rust for the sale of rust and have never understood the "rusted out shop truck" thing. Most guys I have known who had a real shop truck and a business has wanted a damned nice shop truck to promote his business and a cruddy looking truck would be a detriment to the business.

Truck prices around the country have several factors involved and where you and the truck are located is the primary one. Here where I live you can find a truck like that and drive it home for under 1000 with a clear title. Back in the rust belt guys might think it's a 2000 dollar truck if it has a clear title running or not. In other areas of the country it's worth anywhere from what the scrap yard offers up to maybe 2500.

[fnsteffen]

Thanks so much for your replies! I really appreciate the help.

Originally Posted by entourageguy

I've seen some good result using CLR and scotch pads.

I hadn't heard of this before, but I saw some pretty neat results after googling. Most notably this guy (BEFORE and AFTER). Looks like it helps refresh the paint and still leave a nice patina. The only thing I'd be worried about is if there's no paint left under all that rust and all I do is expose a bunch of bare metal. But that doesn't seem likely.

Per broey's comments, that's an awesome break-down! I guessed that the small window and long bed would hurt the re-sale, but I actually prefer both of those options to the more popular alternatives. I think they make for a more balanced and better-looking truck for my taste. I'll have to check out the cab corners again, but I think they were in good shape. I know the motor is still free, but it's going to take me a little work to get it started. As I mentioned, I'll probably rebuild it anyway just to be sure. But your comments help out a lot, as do your recommendations for what to do!

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Just so you know the CLR removes the majority of the rust and the rusty look but does expose the paint patina. But to keep the rust from coming back you'll have to rattle can on some flat or satin clear.

Yeah, I can see that possibly being really great. Like I mentioned above, I just hope there's not a bunch of bare metal under there. I have a few friends with paint set-ups, so I figured I could shoot a few coats of flat or satin clear on it after treating the rust. But would I have to do anything after the CLR to prep it for the clear? Seems like it would be super acidic after the CLR.

Originally Posted by dubie

The CLR and scotch brite pad works great to remove the rust and expose the raw material underneath but as Dan mentioned, you'll have to lock it it with some adhesion promoter and some satin clear

Would any adhesion promoter work on that kind of surface, or does it need to be a certain type? I've only used primer in the past, and obviously that won't work.

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'm not a fan of rust for the sale of rust and have never understood the "rusted out shop truck" thing. Most guys I have known who had a real shop truck and a business has wanted a damned nice shop truck to promote his business and a cruddy looking truck would be a detriment to the business.

I definitely see where you're coming from, and I don't blame you at all. I do not have a shop or any business that I will be promoting and only mentioned the "shop truck" thing to give an example of what I'm thinking. For me, keeping the patina is more about showing the character and uniqueness of the truck than it is just for the sake of rust. There are plenty of turquoise '57 chevys out there, but none with this exact patina. And it just seems like a shame to cover up something one of a kind just to make it more like all the other ones out there. But, again, that's just my personal preference.


Thanks again everyone!

[broey]

Edit: Let us know if you get it.

[fnsteffen]

Originally Posted by broey

Edit: Let us know if you get it.

Haha, I was just about to reply and say that I replied to you too! You just wrote so much, I didn't think I should quote everything.

Thanks again for your advice. I'll be sure to let you know if/when I get it!
Posted via Mobile Device

[broey]

Had to chime in one more time. You don't need to do anything to the paint. it took what, 56 years to get the paint to that point. you don't live in Seattle where it rains and snows every day. check out Jackalope. this truck has just as much patina as yours, and its been fine, it was in Arizona for a few years and never got any worse. spend your money on other parts of the truck, because the paint is fine.

[broey]

jackalope

[rgunlock]

Having spent a few years keeping an eye on Houston CL for these trucks, make sure it's got a clear title for the kind of prices being mentioned.

[G&R's57GMC]

So you start with a nice patina and get an occasional thumbs up, add a theme and get a bunch of thumbs up and "What will you take for it" questions.

The Texaco sign was added last month, my guy even continued the 'scratches' onto the sign.

[broey]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Having spent a few years keeping an eye on Houston CL for these trucks, make sure it's got a clear title for the kind of prices being mentioned.

yes, what he says. very important.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Like the truck, very nice man,I hope you get it

[fnsteffen]

Originally Posted by broey

You don't need to do anything to the paint. it took what, 56 years to get the paint to that point. you don't live in Seattle where it rains and snows every day. check out Jackalope. this truck has just as much patina as yours, and its been fine, it was in Arizona for a few years and never got any worse. spend your money on other parts of the truck, because the paint is fine.

Thanks for the advice. The Jackalope looks pretty sweet! I agree that I shouldn't do too much to the paint, but I feel I should at least do a little to protect it. Houston isn't Seattle, but it is a very humid climate, and rust isn't negligible. This truck has been in central Texas where it's drier, and I'm not sure how it'll react to the new humidity. Also, the fenders above the headlights have already rusted through, and I'd REALLY rather that not get any worse. I'm going to keep an eye on it for sure.

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

So you start with a nice patina and get an occasional thumbs up, add a theme and get a bunch of thumbs up and "What will you take for it" questions.

The Texaco sign was added last month, my guy even continued the 'scratches' onto the sign.

Yeah, that sign is awesome! I've been thinking about designing an oldschool logo for the door as well, but I hadn't the slightest clue how to age it appropriately. Does your guy do that often?


The title is clean and clear, so we're good to go there.

You guys are great with all the advice. Much obliged!

EDIT: had to censor myself. oops.

[dwcsr]

Get the Mobilgas gas pump in the background its worth about 2500 by it self.

[red yj]

Originally Posted by broey

on a side note, if it were my truck, I would:
fix the glass
shorten the frame
cut the bed sides at the cab to shorten the box
replace the brakes, fuel system and get the motor running
drop axle up front and flip kit in the back
wide whites on the original wheels
remove the rear bumper for a swap meet find bumper in white
and re-wrap the seat

those are all budget friendly and will make one bada$$ truck.

X2 that truck is perfect to me.. I like it.

[fnsteffen]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Get the Mobilgas gas pump in the background its worth about 2500 by it self.

Holy crap, really?? In that condition or fixed up? This is an estate sale of sorts, so they're just getting rid of a bunch of old stuff. I could probably pick it up, but I'd have no idea how to re-sell it.

[G&R's57GMC]

This is what my guy did to a pump in that condition for $2200 in 2002.

I paid $ 500 for this pair of pumps in 2004.

So a pump in that condition would go for $ 250 - $ 500, IMHO.

[fnsteffen]

So I went back to check out the truck again, and I got a lot of good pics. Pretty sure I'm going to buy it for $1,200, and he's holding it for me. All the rust looks like it's just on the surface, and the only place I could find where it rusted through was over the driver's side headlight. The engine was rebuilt and then driven for about 50k miles before being parked, and it hasn't been started since. I'm hopeful that I can get it running without too much trouble.

What do y'all think? Anything I should be worried about?

[fnsteffen]

Oh yeah, he also has two sets of side boards that come with the pickup. One set is about a foot tall that they used for hauling grain, and the other set is about four feet tall for when they used to haul CATTLE in the BED of the truck! I really love the story behind this thing, and I'm pretty excited about keeping with the "farm truck" theme.