Control Arm Bushing replacement

[pa_snowman]

i need to know if the thru bolt comes out of the crnter section or if it should stay as one piece. by center section i mean the part has the ocating pin hole and that the u-bolts clamp onto the cross member. (see pictures if they attached)

[Big Dawgs 86]

I just did mine .. It stays together .. When u take one busing off of one side it should come out ..
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[Big Dawgs 86]

It's one peace..
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[pa_snowman]

thanks big dawgs. this is the first one of this type i've taken apart.

[Tx Firefighter]

It's a large shaft with threaded ends. All one piece from end to end.
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[Big Dawgs 86]

My upper and lower a-arms are off.. Do I need to put any weight on the suspension to tighten the shaft bolts .. Or do I just put the spindle on and then tighten the shaft bolts..
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[bluex]

Originally Posted by Big Dawgs 86

My upper and lower a-arms are off.. Do I need to put any weight on the suspension to tighten the shaft bolts .. Or do I just put the spindle on and then tighten the shaft bolts..
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Don't tighten the cross shaft nuts all the way until everything is reassembled an its sitting at ride height with all the weight on it. Tightening it before then will preload the bushings....
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[Big Dawgs 86]

Originally Posted by bluex

Don't tighten the cross shaft nuts all the way until everything is reassembled an its sitting at ride height with all the weight on it. Tightening it before then will preload the bushings....
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Thank you sir..
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[wraprail]

Originally Posted by S10Fan

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...20?prefilter=1

Wow did not know.
I only see c20 listed. Do you think these will fit a c10?

Anyone know where these are made?

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by wraprail

Wow did not know.
I only see c20 listed. Do you think these will fit a c10?

Anyone know where these are made?

I'm pretty sure they're the same. I'd verify with their tech line first though.
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[SigFTW]

I hope to get back on mine and at least finish one side, have been installing a 240v line to the garage and that took up most of my time.

[Tx Firefighter]

C10 and C20 arms are different. The lower ball joint is larger on the 3/4 ton.
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[SigFTW]

I was finally was able to remove the bottom arm yesterday. Started to remove the bolts on the forward u-clamp only to find the bolts were already lose. After removing both sides the forward arm seat (not sure what it's called) was sheared off from the top plate.

Anyone know where I can buy this?

[74 stepside]

Originally Posted by bluex

You guys think $75 is a fair price to have both arms plated up like this? Dropped mine off to have them done today. I would do it, but the lowers are to big to sneak into work an i have no welder at home yet....
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I dont think thats too bad. Most fab shops charge on average $75 hr.

[SigFTW]

Never mind, I found it on LMC.

[bluex]

Originally Posted by 74 stepside

I dont think thats too bad. Most fab shops charge on average $75 hr.

Overall I'm happy with it, they could have done some clean up, but with a one day turn around I'm not complaining...





Slowly but surely I'm getting mine ready to go back together. Just have the lowers to clean paint an put new bushings in...





I hope to finish up next weekend....

[SigFTW]

Originally Posted by bluex

Overall I'm happy with it, they could have done some clean up, but with a one day turn around I'm not complaining...





Slowly but surely I'm getting mine ready to go back together. Just have the lowers to clean paint an put new bushings in...





I hope to finish up next weekend....

looking good!

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by SigFTW

I was finally was able to remove the bottom arm yesterday. Started to remove the bolts on the forward u-clamp only to find the bolts were already lose. After removing both sides the forward arm seat (not sure what it's called) was sheared off from the top plate.

Anyone know where I can buy this?

That is just riveted. Some have taken them and cut out the rivets and put an Allen head bolt In there with a screw to help positively locate the control arms and make them less likely to move if they get hit.
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[SigFTW]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

That is just riveted. Some have taken them and cut out the rivets and put an Allen head bolt In there with a screw to help positively locate the control arms and make them less likely to move if they get hit.
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I took your advise, but used a hex head bolt instead, and it worked out great!
Thanks for the help.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by bluex

Overall I'm happy with it, they could have done some clean up, but with a one day turn around I'm not complaining...

.
I hope to finish up next weekend....

Well is everything finished up ?

Did you have any surprises with the install?

How much do you have invested in all the parts without the welding fab work.

I am just starting on my tare down of my 78, and I did not budget anything for the front suspension replacement, but everything is staring at me, and it says to REPLACE moving parts!!

[bluex]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Well is everything finished up ?

Did you have any surprises with the install?

How much do you have invested in all the parts without the welding fab work.

I am just starting on my tare down of my 78, and I did not budget anything for the front suspension replacement, but everything is staring at me, and it says to REPLACE moving parts!!

Nope no surprises and here is a quote from my somewhat build thread on what everything cost. I believe this is close, but I have had the front end parts for a few years just waiting on the time to do the work so I might be off a bit on the prices.

Flip kit only in the rear ( djm-$85), with new kyb gr2 shocks.

The front is western chassis 2.5" spindles an one coil cut off the spring. I don't remember what the spindles cost, i bought them in 1998.

All the front wear parts are new, upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, pitman, idler energy suspension black bushings (about $40), edelbrock solid tie rod adjusters (5252-$35 iirc), an also kyb gr2 shocks (about $100 for the set f and r)

All the moog stuff will run you about $350-400 depending on where you buy it. Another $75 for the fab work on the lower arms an about $25 worth of paint.

If you want to read more or see pics of it finished just click the link in my sig....

An now that I look at that list again I left out the offset cross shafts for the uppers at $30 or so per side. So thats another $60 or so.

If you have any questions shoot me a PM, it really wasnt all that hard and I did the bushings myself in the garage..

[SigFTW]

I'm finally finish with the the bushings and adding the drop 2" drop springs. I reused the metal sleeves instead of installing the new ones, the originals were in great shape.

It's been hot here so the process has been slow. Again thanks for all the help!

[solidaxel]

Do the red bushings make any noise?
Do you have zerk's on the bushing?
Do they make them in Black?

[SigFTW]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Do the red bushings make any noise?
Do you have zerk's on the bushing?
Do they make them in Black?

Do the red bushings make any noise? No

Do you have zerk's on the bushing? No, the bushings come with a very VERY thick grease, and each bushing has grease channels. I just greased them up and installed.

Do they make them in Black? I bought the bushings from Energy Suspension and they offer red and black.

[solidaxel]

Thanks for the update.

The last set of bushings I put in my 78 truck was back in 1991, and they were rubber so I guess I will put in urethane, and they will out last me !!

Looks like your truck is about to hit the road, nice job!