Removing '64 rear axels?

[McCoyAZ]

I asked this over in the suspension forum and got nowhere.

I am swapping over to a 5 lug bolt pattern using my original axels and having the 6 lug re drilled to 5 lug.

I am not a mechanic but I figured I could take this challenge so I just need to confirm a couple of things please.

After the cover plate is removed and the oil drained out there is only one 1/2" bolt holding a lock pin in place that needs to be removed?

Then the 2 smaller gears that float in between the larger gears need to be removed (if I knew the names of these gears I would post that)

And then you push the axel in and the c clip falls out and then the other side and you pull the axel out and that's all there is to it?

Looking for confirmation mostly and if I am missing anything here that needs to be done?

I don't see any bearings attached to the axels themselves but there are bearings in the housing....do those need replacing as well?

I just need someone to explain this in layman's terms that an old guy can understand...please?

Does it matter if the axels are placed back on their original sides?

[DURG]

Don't remove any gears, just push the axles inward after the cross pin is out or at least pulled down out of the way enough, remove c-clip and axle just pulls out.

[McCoyAZ]

Originally Posted by DURG

Don't remove any gears, just push the axles inward after the cross pin is out or at least pulled down out of the way enough, remove c-clip and axle just pulls out.

Well there are 2 smaller gears that mesh into the larger ones that are just laying inside and when I popped the pin out one of them slipped into the bottom of the differential housing and the other one looks loose in the back of the housing also.

[Clyde65]

You got it right sir. The two small gears can go back in when you reassemble but have to go in right across from each other. I am just like you, did the same thing to an HO 33 on my trailer to redrilling for 5 lug. Easy peasy as long as you don't take out the pinion gear. I resealed the front and rear housing.
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[Captainfab]

When you have the axles out, check the axle/wheel bearing surface for wear. If they are worn or pitted very much, they probably should be replaced. If they are good, I would at least replace the seal at the axle/wheel bearing.

[McCoyAZ]

They all look really good. No wear that I can see.

Do I need to grease anything when I put them back in?

[tincan1966]

I'd recommend replacing the outer bearing and seals while you are there.
If you are not the original owner/driver of the truck, you have no idea if it's ever been run dry, had water in it, etc. For about $40-50 you can have new parts and not worry about being on the side of the road.

That's just me- I am a stickler for preventative maintenance - o sense in taking it apart later.

[Sharps40]

Concur...axles are out...new bearings, new seals and new c-clips....less worries later....no redo on vacation trip.

[McCoyAZ]

One quick question....

I read an on-line article that pretty much said the bearings would come out with the axels and I would have to have a press to get them off.....

Well the bearings and seals did not/do not come out with the axel.

Is that unusual or was the article I read incorrect?

[contagious102]

The bearing's are pressed in place,I have used a peice of 3/4" or 1" pipe that will go from one side to the other and a hammer to tap them out. Then use a punch and tap the new ones in place.

[BAT]

I'm guessing that what they were trying to say is that the axle needs to come out in order to replace the bearings/seals. That said, I am doing the same thing and wondering how I get the bearings and seals out. I think there is a tool for that, but beyond that I am at a loss.

[tincan1966]

A lot of auto parts stores nowdays have loaner tools. yes there is an axle bearing/seal remover-it's about a 3lb slide hammer with an internal 3 finger jaw. You insert it thru the bearing, tighten the adjustment so it is snug in the bearing and normally 2-3 good hits and it is out, seal and all.

I like to lightly clean us the bearing land with some emery cloth, it looks rusty. I also put some 30W oil on the bearing and tap it in place with a large socket from my 3/4 drive set. Only tap on the outer part of the bearing. Install the seal the same way, apply a light touch of wheel bearing grease to it and install axles.

Here's another tip:
After refilling the rear axle, run the truck in low gear for about 10 minutes on jack stands. This will allow lube to get to the bearings without any load on them. This can greatly improve the life of the bearing. Then you can recheck the fluid level and put it on the ground once and be done.

National makes some "axle saver" kits if your axles do have some light grooves in them. They have a thicker lip on the seal and also a slight offset to the sealing lip to give it a new surface to work on.

[McCoyAZ]

Thank you for the information.....it is a lot of help and much appreciated as always.

Got the axels down to the machine shop 60 miles away from my house. Seems all the local guys wanted to tell me how much trouble it was to do what I wanted or that it "would be really expensive" So I called this machine shop and he says YES we do that all the time and I could have it ready for you in 3 days for $100. He was super friendly and I found out he is a racer at the Bonneville Salt Flats and is pretty smart when it comes to hot rods. Glad I had the opportunity to talk with him.

Picked up some 5 on 5 wheels at the junk yard and had to order the bearings and seals.....

[BAT]

Whenever I install bearing I pack them then but them in zip locks and put them in the freezer over night. Take them out of the bags and the usually slip right in... never done an axle though, yet!

[Clyde65]

Originally Posted by McCoyAZ

Thank you for the information.....it is a lot of help and much appreciated as always.

Got the axels down to the machine shop 60 miles away from my house. Seems all the local guys wanted to tell me how much trouble it was to do what I wanted or that it "would be really expensive" So I called this machine shop and he says YES we do that all the time and I could have it ready for you in 3 days for $100. He was super friendly and I found out he is a racer at the Bonneville Salt Flats and is pretty smart when it comes to hot rods. Glad I had the opportunity to talk with him.

Picked up some 5 on 5 wheels at the junk yard and had to order the bearings and seals.....

I had the exact same experience, met up with a racer guy with his race car in tow and asked him, he said, I do that all the time, cost about $100. with new studs and turning down the center ( you know you will have to do this to fit the 5 lug drums on right?) It was around $145 or so.

[McCoyAZ]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

I had the exact same experience, met up with a racer guy with his race car in tow and asked him, he said, I do that all the time, cost about $100. with new studs and turning down the center ( you know you will have to do this to fit the 5 lug drums on right?) It was around $145 or so.

Yes sir....turning and changing the bolt pattern w/ new studs $120.