my "new" 72 Chevy swb

[garrett-a34]

I just bought this this 72 chevy swb about 3 weeks ago. very excited to do a little overhaul to and make it my daily driver and get rid of my expensive bmw. dont get me wrong great car but to expensive and to hard to work on when it came to something going out. i grew up around old cars most of my life. never got to work on many truck but this body style is was and always be my favorite. i just ordered a new wire harness for it so if anyone has tips on installing that bad boy please let me know. im about to order a new carb (edelbrock 600cfm), msd ignition etc, then replace the shocks and all the gaskets and seals. nothing to major. hope to have it up and going in a couple months. i will be looking to sell the wheels and tires that are on it now. ill get specifics tomorrow, im just not a fan of them but the tires are basically brand new. just saying hello to all and im on here daily looking around so feel free to throw any ideas at me. its pretty bare as of now. ill post more pictures tomorrow as well.
Thanks
Garrett

[slow-1]

Congrats on the "new" ride.
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[Katrina/10]

Looks like a good truck. I'd suggest putting a 72 grille in it and a front bumper.

[LockDoc]

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Welcome to the board. Looks like you have a pretty nice truck. I would just check out the safety equipment and drive it for a while before you get too carried away tearing things apart. I have seen a lot of projects go by the wayside because the new owner started too many major changes at once and lost interest because they were never able to drive it. "Small steps" is the best way...

Also, as a heads up, members can't sell stuff on the board unless they are paying members (25 bucks a year) and their name is in Blue.

Good luck with your new toy...

LockDoc

[Gene]

To put in a 72 grill he'd have to change is whole front clip since this is a 67. Nice truck.
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[Agent915]

Looks like a 69-72 clip with side markers filled in to me.

Danny

[teeitup]

Nice truck Garrett!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got your money this morning in mail, I'll get parts shipped out Mon. Thanks Randy

[Katrina/10]

It has a 71-72 grille shell already in it.

[teeitup]

the fenders, grill, hood are 71-72, as Danny said, side markers are shaved

[19666Trucker]

Looks mean like get the f out my way. Awesome
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[Tinkermc]

Welcome to the Forum and by the way nice lookin ride

[Gene]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

It has a 71-72 grille shell already in it.

My bad, I glanced at the pics and thought the hood was slanted.
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[garrett-a34]

Thanks guys! Very excited to get things going on the truck. Most parts are ordered I just have to install everything. Im actually considering powder coating the grill black and I have to out a roll pan on it the owner before already cut the frame. Thanks randy that sounds great! Ill post more pics as I move along with it!
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[garrett-a34]

but ya factory: power steering, brakes, front disc, ac, tilt. trying to figure out the gear ratio but cant find a stamp so im going to take off the pumpkin plate and count. has a th350. no desire for the OD yet. i wont be going over 45 for a while and if so not for long. what is everyones take on gas tank location?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by garrett-a34

but ya factory: power steering, brakes, front disc, ac, tilt. trying to figure out the gear ratio but cant find a stamp so im going to take off the pumpkin plate and count. has a th350. no desire for the OD yet. i wont be going over 45 for a while and if so not for long. what is everyones take on gas tank location?

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There are a couple of ways to tell your current ratio. The one I usually use is the letters stamped on the housing. I have included a couple of pictures that show the location of the letters. You will have two or three letters, depending on the year of your truck. When you find the code letters go to the link here and look it up:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=578793

Another good way is to take the cover off of the rear housing and look at the numbers stamped on the gears. The good thing about using this method is that you put fresh gear oil in the rear end to replace the 40 year old oil that is in there now. Below are the numbers for the different ratios. The last two numbers in each row are the ones that will be stamped into the gears.

Rear Axle Ratios

Ratio 2.56:1 - Tooth Combination 41,16
Ratio 2.73:1 - Tooth Combination 41,15
Ratio 3.07:1 - Tooth Combination 43,14
Ratio 3.08:1 - Tooth Combination 40,13
Ratio 3.08:1 - Tooth Combination 37,12
Ratio 3.31:1 - Tooth Combination 43,13
Ratio 3.36:1 - Tooth Combination 37,11
Ratio 3.42:1 - Tooth Combination 41,12
Ratio 3.55:1 - Tooth Combination 39,11
Ratio 3.73:1 - Tooth Combination 41,11
Ratio 4.10:1 - Tooth Combination 41,10
Ratio 4.11:1 - Tooth Combination 37,9

LockDoc

[garrett-a34]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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There are a couple of ways to tell your current ratio. The one I usually use is the letters stamped on the housing. I have included a couple of pictures that show the location of the letters. You will have two or three letters, depending on the year of your truck. When you find the code letters post them and the year of your truck here and I can tell you what ratio you have.

Another good way is to take the cover off of the rear housing and look at the numbers stamped on the gears. The good thing about using this method is that you put fresh gear oil in the rear end to replace the 40 year old oil that is in there now. Below are the numbers for the different ratios. The last two numbers in each row are the ones that will be stamped into the gears.

Rear Axle Ratios

Ratio 2.56:1 - Tooth Combination 41,16
Ratio 2.73:1 - Tooth Combination 41,15
Ratio 3.07:1 - Tooth Combination 43,14
Ratio 3.08:1 - Tooth Combination 40,13
Ratio 3.08:1 - Tooth Combination 37,12
Ratio 3.31:1 - Tooth Combination 43,13
Ratio 3.36:1 - Tooth Combination 37,11
Ratio 3.42:1 - Tooth Combination 41,12
Ratio 3.55:1 - Tooth Combination 39,11
Ratio 3.73:1 - Tooth Combination 41,11
Ratio 4.10:1 - Tooth Combination 41,10
Ratio 4.11:1 - Tooth Combination 37,9

LockDoc

thanks doc! yea i want to change all the fluids in the truck before i start to drive it. when i do that ill check those numbers and post them. i appreciate the help

[19673ontree]

hey nice project , I noticed the bed is a shortened long bed did they shorten the truck ? or swap frames ? or is the bed just off a long bed ?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by garrett-a34

thanks doc! yea i want to change all the fluids in the truck before i start to drive it. when i do that ill check those numbers and post them. i appreciate the help

I added a link in my previous post so you can look the code letters up if you want to.

LockDoc

[oklalawnboy]

Originally Posted by 19673ontree

hey nice project , I noticed the bed is a shortened long bed did they shorten the truck ? or swap frames ? or is the bed just off a long bed ?

Just wondering if you think that because of the center stake pocket. If not, how can you tell?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by oklalawnboy

Just wondering if you think that because of the center stake pocket. If not, how can you tell?

Factory short fleets didn't have a center stake pocket so that must be what he is going by. The bed side does look a little smoother where the cut would be made to shorten it but that wouldn't really be a good indication of work done there.

LockDoc

[MidLifer]

I'm bound to start a religious war here and get this thread locked, but I just can't understand why people spend good time, welding gas and money shortening LWB trucks. I would never buy a truck that couldnt hold a sheet of plywood in the bed with the tailgate closed.

Flame away!
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[19673ontree]

I can see in the pics that the bed is a cut down longbed and was just wondering if they shortened the frame ? or swapped frames ? or what ?
yes the stake pockets glow's and shouts LONGBED ,,,

[19673ontree]

Originally Posted by MidLifer

I'm bound to start a religious war here and get this thread locked, but I just can't understand why people spend good time, welding gas and money shortening LWB trucks. I would never buy a truck that couldnt hold a sheet of plywood in the bed with the tailgate closed.

Flame away!
Posted via Mobile Device

we were talking about this the other day , I mentioned that for example a longbed truck is in the same realm as say a four door car ? but we have the option to shorten the trucks , I will not say that I will never have a cut down longbed but the reason for doing it would have to be a certain way ,, say if I found a 67 CST longbed that was in great shape but was a longbed ? it would have to be dirt cheap ? and longbeds are most of the time cheap , if I liked the truck and the only thing against it was that it was a longbed then yes I would buy it and shorten it , mind you I will say again it would have to be a NICE truck AND be DIRT CHEAP ! that would make it worth it ,,,

[garrett-a34]

Its just the bed for what ever reason the people before chose to use. I crawled under before I bought it to check the frame and theres no welding done. Maybe they just found a cheap long bed idk I didnt ask
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[oklalawnboy]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Factory short fleets didn't have a center stake pocket so that must be what he is going by. The bed side does look a little smoother where the cut would be made to shorten it but that wouldn't really be a good indication of work done there.

LockDoc

Thanks!