Trouble codes

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

Look at your grounds again. I've read over and over misfires on a bank keep coming up as ground issues.

Roger that Shawn, the thing is, there is only one grounding wire in the entire Speartech harness. So if grounds were a problem, you would affect both sides, and not just one. Is there anything mechanical that could cause this problem?

[OldCreek]

Random thoughts, but I'm no mechanic….

Put a stethoscope on each injector to see if they're firing correctly.
Pull each plug and ground it and then watch it spark. How do the plugs look?
Fuel rail clogged? Bad pressure regulator on the rail?
Intake manifold leak?

It's been my experience that one bad injector will make your trims on that side look bad…but not misfire multiple cylinders.

Good luck with what is probably very frustrating!

Wil

also, have you run an ohmmeter on your harness to confirm wiring?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by OldCreek

Random thoughts, but I'm no mechanic….

Put a stethoscope on each injector to see if they're firing correctly.
Pull each plug and ground it and then watch it spark. How do the plugs look?
Fuel rail clogged? Bad pressure regulator on the rail?
Intake manifold leak?

It's been my experience that one bad injector will make your trims on that side look bad…but not misfire multiple cylinders.

Good luck with what is probably very frustrating!

Wil

Thanks OldCreek. The injectors, coil packs and O2's are good becaue I swapped them from side to side with no change in symptoms. I'm starting to lean towards a intake manifold leak or a bad ground somewhere. I'm going to do a smoke test tonight and see if I can eliminate that. If that's not it, I will start checking wires.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Thanks CB. Any thoughts on the possible problem?

Check the harness first....Make sure all Injector drivers on that bank are wired to the correct cylinder.
Make sure all Ignition coil drivers are wired to the correct cylinder.

Load test the Coil grounds, I use a Halogen sealed beam headlamp, Then check ALL ECM grounds.....Not many with a E38.

Load testing is the ONLY way to truly check a ground. If you need help on test procedures, Let me know.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Check the harness first....Make sure all Injector drivers on that bank are wired to the correct cylinder.
Make sure all Ignition coil drivers are wired to the correct cylinder.

Load test the Coil grounds, I use a Halogen sealed beam headlamp, Then check ALL ECM grounds.....Not many with a E38.

Load testing is the ONLY way to truly check a ground. If you need help on test procedures, Let me know.

Thanks CB. Do you have pin out for the injector drivers and coil drivers?

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Thanks CB. Do you have pin out for the injector drivers and coil drivers?

Can you see the diagram that I posted earlier? Some of the files I have don't download well on this site (too small).

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Can you see the diagram that I posted earlier? Some of the files I have don't download well on this site (too small).

CB - I printed it, but the resolution is not very readable. Can you email it to me @ robert.hartley@navy.mil? Thanks,

Rob

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Check the harness first....Make sure all Injector drivers on that bank are wired to the correct cylinder.
Make sure all Ignition coil drivers are wired to the correct cylinder.

Load test the Coil grounds, I use a Halogen sealed beam headlamp, Then check ALL ECM grounds.....Not many with a E38.

Load testing is the ONLY way to truly check a ground. If you need help on test procedures, Let me know.

CB - Whats the procedure you use for the load test?

Last night I did a compression check on all 8 cylinders just trying to eliminate any possible mechanical problems. All cylinders were 215+ psi. Friday I will do a smoke test to make sure I don't have any vacuum leaks. If that checks well, I'll start digging into the wiring....

[BR3W CITY]

Did you ever take care of that metal-nub that you showed me the Manual pictures of?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Did you ever take care of that metal-nub that you showed me the Manual pictures of?

Not yet. I'm going to do a smoke check to see if I have a vacuum leak first.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

CB - Whats the procedure you use for the load test?

Last night I did a compression check on all 8 cylinders just trying to eliminate any possible mechanical problems. All cylinders were 215+ psi. Friday I will do a smoke test to make sure I don't have any vacuum leaks. If that checks well, I'll start digging into the wiring....

Disconnect the ECM & TCM BEFORE performing any test, The last thing you want is to fry/brick a module. Unplug the ECM & Unplug the trans.

Load testing is very straight forward. I use a headlamp because you can SEE if the ground is poor, If the lamp is bright, the ground is good. If the lamp is yellow/brown or doesn't come on....the ground is poor.
Test it straight to the battery first to get a feel on how bright & color the light is.

The diagram should help, Hook one side of the Lamp to the positive side of the battery.
With a suitable probe & lead hooked to the other side of the Lamp......Probe the ground circuit your testing, This will load that circuit.

What I mean by "Suitable Probe" is Don't stretch out the terminal in the connector your probing. Or damage the plastic connector.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Disconnect the ECM & TCM BEFORE performing any test, The last thing you want is to fry/brick a module. Unplug the ECM & Unplug the trans.

Load testing is very straight forward. I use a headlamp because you can SEE if the ground is poor, If the lamp is bright, the ground is good. If the lamp is yellow/brown or doesn't come on....the ground is poor.
Test it straight to the battery first to get a feel on how bright & color the light is.

The diagram should help, Hook one side of the Lamp to the positive side of the battery.
With a suitable probe & lead hooked to the other side of the Lamp......Probe the ground circuit your testing, This will load that circuit.

What I mean by "Suitable Probe" is Don't stretch out the terminal in the connector your probing. Or damage the plastic connector.

Thanks CB! I'll be working on it this weekend.

[faribran]

CB thank you for posting the "load test".... i will file this away for future use. as will others i am sure.

[Hart_Rod]

Quick update guys. I messed around with the truck all weekend, with very little luck. Did a compression check, all cylinders 220 psi +/- 5. Did a smoke check, could not find any vacuum leaks. Stonewalled. Totally scratching my head.... I had set up an appt to get the exhaust put back on yesterday. I almost cancelled it since the truck would hardly run, but since I had taken the day off, I went ahead and called a rollback and had it hauled to the exhaust shop. I had planned on putting on some new Magnaflows that I had laying around, but they wouldn't fit, . I had wanted to switch the Magnaflows because I had read that they sound better with the LS motors, oh well....And with the new crossmember I built for the 6L80 tranny, my electric cutouts weren't working out so well either, . So I just told the exhaust guy to reconnect the Flowmasters that were on there (50 series) and at least I could do some tuning without getting fumigated. OK, so we get everything hooked up and I start the truck up just to see how it sounds....and to my surprise, I like it! And to my even bigger suprise, I hook the HPTuners scanner up and all the issues I was having with misfires and crazy Fuel Trims were gone!!!! Other than running a little rich, the idle is good and it's not throwing any codes. So the Moral of the story is, NEVER do any tuning on a FI motor unless you have the exhaust on and don't believe everything you read on the internet, . I'm eating some serious humble pie, I would never have thought that not having the exhaust on would have created the "symptoms" that I was seeing going on with my motor. Go figure. I did learn a lot through this experience, and will be a better "tuner" because of it. Now I have to undue some things I did when I was chasing a problem that wasn't there, .

[68GMCCustom]

Interesting. I don't think I realized you were tuning running open headers? So lets see the exhaust!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

Interesting. I don't think I realized you were tuning running open headers? So lets see the exhaust!

Well I technically I wasn't trying to tune it. I was just trying to get it running well enough to load onto a trailer to take it to the exhaust shop. Big mistake. Won't happen again. The exhaust is nothing special. I cut the orginal exhaust in from of the mufflers, so all he had to do is go from the headers to the mufflers. I'll try to post some pictures this evening.

[smoky02]

What cut out where you using? And why didn't you like them?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by smoky02

What cut out where you using? And why didn't you like them?

I have QTP cutouts and really like them. I had them installed prior to doing the LS install. My new tranny crossmember is in the way. We could have made them work, but I just wanted to get the exhaust on so I could get it running. After I get everything lined out, I'll probably have him redo everything.

[Custom 68]

yea I didn't realize you didn't have full exhaust either. I am guessing you were getting some air back in and causing the o2 sensors to freak out so to speak. Glad it is coming together much better now.
good luck
Dave

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by faribran

CB thank you for posting the "load test".... i will file this away for future use. as will others i am sure.

YES, thank You, I will file that right next to using a flasher for checking shorts to ground

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

YES, thank You, I will file that right next to using a flasher for checking shorts to ground

Haven't heard this one. Please explain. TIA.

[solidaxel]

When looking for a short that keeps blowing a new fuse, temp. wire a flasher can to the fuse posts, when it stops "clicking" and you have isolated the short, you have a good circuit, now replace the fuse

[Hart_Rod]

Sweet!

[Hart_Rod]

I'm still getting a couple of trouble codes but I think I might just need to delete them out. Here they are:

[] P057C - (SES) (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0621 - Generator L-Terminal Circuit (Pending) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0622 - Generator F-Terminal Circuit (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P2537 - Ignition Switch Accessory Position Circuit Low (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)

I'm running a 2 wire alternator off of a 2004 Chevy truck (140A). I had it checked and it checked out as "good". Any thoughts?

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

I'm still getting a couple of trouble codes but I think I might just need to delete them out. Here they are:

[] P057C - (SES) (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0621 - Generator L-Terminal Circuit (Pending) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P0622 - Generator F-Terminal Circuit (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
[] P2537 - Ignition Switch Accessory Position Circuit Low (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)

I'm running a 2 wire alternator off of a 2004 Chevy truck (140A). I had it checked and it checked out as "good". Any thoughts?

The generator codes may be because the 04 alternator has an internal regulator, and your engine/pcm would normally use a PCM controlled regulator. It doesn't see the voltage it would be trying to control. OR you have a short on one of the wires.

The p057c code came up as an SES for failed cruise control module. I'm guessing you might have something wired off the TCC/brake switch incorrectly (lol I know you and JorgenSC have gone back and forth on diagrams for this in the other thread).

can't find anything on the p2537