CPP powersteering conversion help

[westcoast5]

well I mounted up the conversion kit and everything works fine and all except for one thing. The truck turns way too far to the left now and doesnt turn enough to the right. 3.5 left and 1.5 turns to the right. the pitman arm sits slightly off center with the rack and you can only move it 90 degrees the way its splined. CPP says its the same pitman arm all years 63 and up. Does anyone have any sugestions on how I can fix this problem?

thanks

[mike14_07]

sounds like the pitman arm isnt clocked right, center the wheels, pull the pitman, turn the wheel from lock to lock and count the turns, center it in between and reinstall the the pitman arm.

[NEWFISHER]

+1. Work at the rag joint, don't worry aout "if the steering wheel is straight" disco the pitman, turn the rag joint end back and forth, lock to lock then find center ( half of the turns each way).install the pitman arm and adjust tie rodsfor straight wheels. Pull the steering wheel and re center. That will get you in the ballpark then get it aligned.

[tincan1966]

Can you get a few pics of the tie rod configuration?

As mentioned center the steering box(pitman arm should be parallel with frame(idler arm should be also.)
Are both sets of tie rods the same length from where they attach to the center link to where they are attached to the spindles? I am going to guess that the passenger side is shorter.
You are correct that the pitman can only go on in one of 4 positions. Once it is centered, then the adjustments need to be made thru the tie rod adjusting sleeves. Both sides should be close to equal lengths.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by tincan1966

Can you get a few pics of the tie rod configuration?

As mentioned center the steering box(pitman arm should be parallel with frame(idler arm should be also.)
Are both sets of tie rods the same length from where they attach to the center link to where they are attached to the spindles? I am going to guess that the passenger side is shorter.
You are correct that the pitman can only go on in one of 4 positions. Once it is centered, then the adjustments need to be made thru the tie rod adjusting sleeves. Both sides should be close to equal lengths.

Here's a second on tincan's advice, as experienced several times, where he says, "...Once it is centered, then the adjustments need to be made thru the tie rod adjusting sleeves...."
IIRC, I've NEVER had to re-adjust a pitman arm position, as all the ones we used came off their donors with the gear "already centered" when their arm was parallel to body of steering box. We merely installed the 'new pitman arm'(when required to get correct size hole on center link end) in same position as old one. Then, moved one tie rod in and other one out, via sleeves, until turn radius was same going left or right. At that point, it was time to adjust toe to correct position--usually, like 1/8-inch 'in'.
sam

[westcoast5]

Thanks guys for the advice over the last few weeks inbetween kids sports and work, I was tinkering with the whole thing takeing the pitman arm off measureing the idler and centerlink etc etc so basicly the center link was short by 1 3/4" so I took the center link down to a fab shop and had them cut one end off and extend it by a 1 3/4 now its perfect. turns equally both ways, so now Im gonna reinstall the steering compents back in as close as I can to straight (toe) and bring it over to the alignment shop and have them set it up at ride height.

[Captainfab]

There is absolutely no reason to have to stretch the draglink. All that was needed was to adjust the tierods to achieve the same amount of turn both directions and have an alignment done. Pretty much just what luvbowties and tincan1966 posted above.

Originally Posted by westcoast5

Thanks guys for the advice over the last few weeks inbetween kids sports and work, I was tinkering with the whole thing takeing the pitman arm off measureing the idler and centerlink etc etc so basicly the center link was short by 1 3/4" so I took the center link down to a fab shop and had them cut one end off and extend it by a 1 3/4 now its perfect. turns equally both ways, so now Im gonna reinstall the steering compents back in as close as I can to straight (toe) and bring it over to the alignment shop and have them set it up at ride height.

[chevyrestoguy]

Another thing to ponder:
The adapter plate spaces the box away from the frame just enough for the box to clear without interference. This scoots the steering box and pitman arm to the driver's side. Oftentimes, you can take up this difference by adjusting the tie-rod sleeves, but sometimes you cannot. This depends on which vendor you use for your tie rods. What happens is that the inner and outer tie rods will butt against each other in the adjuster sleeve, and you will have a drastic toe-out condition on the driver's side and not be able to adjust the toe back to the inside. I have had to shorten the driver's side inner tie rod by cutting off about an inch and redressing the threads. This will allow for enough room inside the sleeve to get the toe-in set correctly.

I would re-visit the set-up on your truck. I don't like the idea of extending a center link. You shouldn't have to. What are the details of your truck? Is your suspension totally stock with the exception of the CPP power steering conversion?

The pitman arm usually has a section of the splines that are uncut that act as a keyway, which mates with the splines on the box. I have never seen a pitman arm that can be re-clocked to another position.

Resetting the rag joint/box adapter is always a good starting point. Disconnect the column, and move the box to the full left and right positions and establish the "zero point". Reconnect the column and ensure the steering wheel is centered.

I also recommend doing the "string check" before you head off to the alignment shop. Make sure the vehicle has weight on the suspension, and get a straight edge and put it horizontally on the rim face at the same height as the spindle centerline. Have a buddy on the other side doing the same thing, but have him hold the tape measure. Measure the distance at the front of the wheels and at the back of the wheels, and adjust the tie rods to get it even. The alignment shop will probably add a slight amount of toe-in, but this will get you to the shop without wearing the tires or causing a spooky ride getting there.