Solenoid on ignition died

[upon1]

Alright guys I started my ls for the first time in my '55, fired up with just a bump of the key. It started fine about 10 different times since then but then the sol on the ignition burnt out and no power on the sol post at all. I cannot figure out why this would have happened, maybe a faulty switch? My wiring is very basic, battery to starter, alt to starter, fan relay to starter, starter to junction post, junction post to fuse box, ignition switch and ls harness. I have the hot while cranking, brake and fan relay power to the ignition post on the ignition switch and sol to nss then to the solenoid. Is there anything I'm missing? Am I somehow overloading the ignition switch?

[BR3W CITY]

That description is a little confusing.

It sounds like you have a switched 12v from your relay to the starter, as well as a switched 12v from the switch to the starter....

You need a switched 12v from the ign switch to the signal side of the relay...then hot 12v from the relay to the starter.

If the starter is pulling voltage right through the switch, it can be burned out.

[upon1]

That's kind of what I thought. I have the solenoid wire going directly from the ignition to the starter. No relay. The only relay I have is for the elec fan and brake switch/ tcc.

[BR3W CITY]

I though you just used "fan relay" to mean a generic relay (like a lamp relay).

Why is your fan hooked to your starter?

You need a relay for the ignition, it shouldn't have to pull the voltage through the ign switch. The ls trucks would use the signal off the pcm, and thus also used a relay.

[upon1]

The electric fan relay is wired to the starter because that's where I'm pulling my power from. I can understand what your saying about the ignition relay but nobody I have talked to seems to think there is a need for one, including the tech guys at painless and haywire. I'm going to change the switch and see what happens.

[BR3W CITY]

Not every setup does use one; but I've already had one fuse panel fire on the old engine, and just don't like running un needed voltage through interior electronics. The switch in my 66 is plenty capable of having the current run through it.

That being said, have you just tried to put a meter on it and test the switch? If you replace that, and it fails again, then it is possible the load on the switch is too high (its also possible its just a bad switch, and changing it will help.
Are you getting the full 12v across the switch, or is there a voltage drop before the solenoid?