Lifted steering arm height

[Gregsenne]

I got my lift kit (front springs, rear blocks, and steering arm) from a buddy, who swears that these parts all came from the same kit that he bought new. It's a 6" kit, and the blocks and springs do lift the truck 6". However, the steering arm is only 4" higher than the factory one.

Once assembled, the center link is on a slight angle. Turning radius SUCKS now. My gearbox is shot, too (over 1/4" turn before tires react), but I don't think that a bad gearbox has anything to do with turning radius. The center link and pitman arm are still factory.

So, is it normal for a 6" suspension lift kit to have a steering arm that is only 4" higher? Could the angle that the center link is on affect my turning radius? I've heard others tell me I need to use the 4" steering arm, and get a dropped pitman arm. What is the correct way of doing this?

Thanks
Greg

[Rubble]

This is what I have found on any trucks I lifted.Your drag link(center link) should be level.Either you need a drop pitman arm at the steering box or a raised steering arm to make it level.Is your steering wheel centered as well?? You might have to adjust the drag link to get the wheel centered too.

[Gregsenne]

What is the best technique? I already have a 4" lifted steering arm. Should I also add a 2" dropped pitman arm?

And as far as my steering wheel goes, no, it's almost upside down when going straight.

[imjeff]

A 4" drop arm is adequate for a 6" kit, but I'd be concerned with a block over 4". They usually have an add-a-leaf and a 4" block. You probably just need to adjust your drag link to make sure you're getting the same left turn as right. I've never had a lift decrease my turning radius. A bad box will be worse with a lift, though.

[79Betty]

Same gere. Mine's SLIGHTLY lower toward back end but i had to take it apart to get it rightly centered. Jack the front end up so ut doesn't put stress onthe frame!

[LONGHAIR]

You absolutely "have to" adjust the drag-link (longer) to get the steering wheel back centered.
Since it is too short now, you lose turning radius to the right, which is the way you need to turn the sharpest anyway. That is why everyone notices it.
You may notice that it turns more to the left, but that is not helpful

Also, be prepared with some PB Blaster (or other lube of your choice), they can be a bit rough to adjust....unless the previous owner let a gearbox leak go for years, that helps

[Gregsenne]

Originally Posted by imjeff

but I'd be concerned with a block over 4". They usually have an add-a-leaf and a 4" block.

The 6” kit I got from my buddy only had a 4” block, and he didn’t have the add-a-leaf any more, but I had a different truck with a homemade looking steel 6” block, which is what I used. The truck drives very rough.

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

You absolutely "have to" adjust the drag-link (longer) to get the steering wheel back centered.
Since it is too short now, you lose turning radius to the right, which is the way you need to turn the sharpest anyway. That is why everyone notices it.
You may notice that it turns more to the left, but that is not helpful

Also, be prepared with some PB Blaster (or other lube of your choice), they can be a bit rough to adjust....unless the previous owner let a gearbox leak go for years, that helps

Thanks, I will adjust the drag link. Thankfully I just put it together last summer, so it shouldn’t be that hard to adjust. I’ve never noticed that turning left has more radius than right, they seem the same (awful). I’ll pay attention to that next time I drive it, though.

[imjeff]

Originally Posted by Gregsenne

The 6” kit I got from my buddy only had a 4” block, and he didn’t have the add-a-leaf any more, but I had a different truck with a homemade looking steel 6” block, which is what I used.

I don't like blocks due to the torque they put on components. There is a good reason manufacturers don't build 6" blocks. Imagine what your rear end does under hard acceleration (or hard braking). Your axle housing is trying to rotate due to the power applied to the axles/tires. If you looked at it from the driver's side the housing would be rotating clockwise. It transmits this rotational force (truly awesome force with a big block) to the springs, then the vehicle in the form of forward motion. With enough traction we can lift the front wheels. Now put a block between the housing and spring. This increases the distance between the axle (rotating element) and spring. The more distance, the more mechanical advantage it has on the spring and shackles. 6" blocks add too much distance, much like a cheater bar. Something will break! On front axles the main danger is lateral force from turning so front blocks are a no-no. I use springs all the way around and I've still broken shackles.

Jeff

[LONGHAIR]

In my years working in a 4x4 shop, I saw lots of scary stuff.
Things like stacked blocks, "home made" blocks, and shock extenders made from all-thread were fairly common.
I have seem 10" of lift done with 4" springs and 6" blocks on the front along with a full 10" block and stock springs on the back.....

Back then, a lot of what I did was removing that kind of stuff and getting the trucks back safe and driveable again. That and re-gearing to bring the power back after tall tires were installed.