Modify arms for tapered steering joints?

[yossarian19]

I know this has been done & been asked (probably a lot of times) but I'm not coming up with it.
How do you go about reaming a 7* taper into the stock steering arms? Seems the hole would need to be shrunk first to get engagement on the small end of the taper.

[dwcsr]

Assuming you have the reamer. Drill the hole about a 1/16 under the small end of the taper stud. This is a slow process when your doing it manually. If you use a drill very very slow speed, You want to be able to count the revolutions no more that one rev every 2-3 seconds, use a good cutting oil. you will have to test fit several times. When done you want the small end to still be about an 1/8" below the nut when torqued to spec other wise you would have to use a hardened washer. Look to see if the cotter pin hole is about half way in castle nut slots, that's just about right.

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

I know this has been done & been asked (probably a lot of times) but I'm not coming up with it.
How do you go about reaming a 7* taper into the stock steering arms? Seems the hole would need to be shrunk first to get engagement on the small end of the taper.

If reversing the taper, yes....weld the hole and start over

[gale]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

I know this has been done & been asked (probably a lot of times) but I'm not coming up with it.
How do you go about reaming a 7* taper into the stock steering arms? Seems the hole would need to be shrunk first to get engagement on the small end of the taper.

First things first, get the parts off the truck and in hand. The Pitman arm is a good place to start but there are 3 more balls to remove.

Grind the peening and possibly a short weld off the back side of the ball.

There is a slight chamfer in the hole before the peening was done so this will make it a little more difficult to drive or press the ball out. The easiest or maybe less difficult way to attack the ball is to drill it partially out and then drive it. Make sure the part is perpendicular to your drill press and drill a 1/4" hole followed by a 1/2" bit to a depth of 1/2" or so.

The hole is already tapered but the angle is much shallower than the modern replacement joints so you will need a reamer that matches the new joint.

[NEWFISHER]

and if lowering or doing a dropped axle, I believe you have to reverse the newer tie rod.

need more info on whats going on.