4 link help

[Tim's68]

I have a Auto Weld Chassis 4 link to install and need some help installing.
I understand that I need the chassis at ride height and the pinion set on the rear end. What comes next?
I think the bottom bars need to be level @ ride height? Correct? Top bars are level too??
Once installed, what is a good starting point when it comes to adjusting the 4 link ....... for the street.
Do I screw the heim links half way in @ install? Will that allow for plenty of adjustment.
Could someone post some pictures of what they have?
How much up / down travel would I have with a 4 link before they bind? I will have air bags.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[PGSigns]

Well it is a loaded bunch of questions you have. Here is my take on getting started. First post the four link you have and what the overall plan is. From what it looks like I would say prostreet with bags. I looked like most of there stuff was designed for coil overs and was pretty narrow. That leaves little room for both bags and shocks. Here is how I would set it up for a cruiser. Set the frame at ride height and ride angle. Set the rear end at the correct height and place the frame section you have so the bottom bar is level but not in the bottom hole in the front bracket. If a cruiser I would use a parallel 4 bar setup. What you have will make further instructions better.
Jimmy

[solidaxel]

Watching!

[Tim's68]

Wish I could post pictures of my 4link and the whole project, but my computer skills are about as bad as they get, I know how to take the picture but not sure how to load em on the computer. I too like pictures.

PGSigns, you're correct it is a pro street project. So for I have the Scotts Super Slam ( air ride ) front suspension. Ford 9" / 4 link for the rear with 33X22X20 SSR MT's with Billet Specialties 20X15 Stilleto wheels. I still need to buy the front wheels. I'll see if I can get some pictures on here.
Thanks for your help.

[tinydb84]

There is a lot that goes into setting up a 4 link. I started reading a long time ago and still don't understand half of it.

Look up the following:
squat/anti squat
roll center
center of gravity

Then find an online calculator for setting up a 4 link and enter your numbers in it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

There is a lot that goes into setting up a 4 link. I started reading a long time ago and still don't understand half of it.

Look up the following:
squat/anti squat
roll center
center of gravity

Then find an online calculator for setting up a 4 link and enter your numbers in it.

While this is true, it's based on race car application. A pro-street 4-bar is much easier. If it's a street vehicle, keep it simple...

[PGSigns]

The race stuff won't apply to this truck with the pro street theme. A 4 link will drive you nuts in the beginning in a drag race application if you don't have a good chassis tuner to help teach you. For this setup a parallel set of bars will work good a little down in the front. The street rod guys have been using this setup forever. Ride and handling on the street will be good. Here is a car I built several years ago with a arms and a 4 link. A good stout 406 and a turbo 350.
Jimmy

[PGSigns]

Here is a pic of one of my old cars with a strut front and a 4 link with a different style of setup in it. 468 and a power glide. Always went rounds with this car. The setup was for pro tree throttle stop racing. We ran Super Gas / Rod with it a good bit.
Jimmy

[Tim's68]

PGSigns, Thanks for all the info.
Excuse my lack of knowledge, but the 4 link that I have is a parallel bar, right??? The bars are equal length. When you say a little down in the front, you talking the top bar down?

ScotI, the 4 link that I have is a pro street 4 link, when you say keep it simple, can you give more detail.

Would I be better off going with a ladder ber set up.
The truck will never see the 1/4 mile and I dont really plan on doing a serious race.
I just want to build a truck with FAT tires and sittin LOW.... REAL LOW.
Gotta get this build going in the right direction, Im pushing 60 so time is running out if you know what I mean. If I can just get the suspension done the rest is easy.
Can someone post some close up pictures of their 4 link set up?

Thanks for everyones time.
Oh, the cars yall poster are cool, thanks.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tim's68

PGSigns, Thanks for all the info.
Excuse my lack of knowledge, but the 4 link that I have is a parallel bar, right??? The bars are equal length. When you say a little down in the front, you talking the top bar down?

ScotI, the 4 link that I have is a pro street 4 link, when you say keep it simple, can you give more detail.

Would I be better off going with a ladder ber set up.
The truck will never see the 1/4 mile and I dont really plan on doing a serious race.
I just want to build a truck with FAT tires and sittin LOW.... REAL LOW.
Gotta get this build going in the right direction, Im pushing 60 so time is running out if you know what I mean. If I can just get the suspension done the rest is easy.
Can someone post some close up pictures of their 4 link set up?

Thanks for everyones time.
Oh, the cars yall poster are cool, thanks.

Since it's not a race car... keep it simple means.....

Keep the bars parallel to the ground.
Pinion equal/opposite of the drive-line (within 1°).
Panhard bar parallel to the rear housing @ ride height.
Shocks/springs as plumb as possible & utilize the longest travel set-up you can for best ride quality.

Is the truck a 68? If so, why not utilize the truck arm set-up?

[PGSigns]

Parallel is both bars at the same angle. It will allow the rear to move well with truck. A ladder bar is not a good choice for the street. They don't allow the rear to roll much. So when you pull into a driveway and you have the angle change with one tire going up first the four link will articulate well and the ladder bar will move till it binds. I have seen street driven ladder bar cars break the front mounts off the frame and crack the axle tubes. Google parallel four link and you will find lots of info and pics for running like this on the street.
Jimmy

[tinydb84]

In another thread Rob from No Limit recommended setting the lower bar parallel to the ground and the top bar angled down 3-5 degrees. I just like to know all the details before I make decisions

[Tim's68]

I see that people install the forward 4 link brackets sometimes directly under the frame rails and sometimes inboard of the rails. Where should they be installed? When I set the rear tires between the frame rails and the wheel well, should I leave 1" or 1 1/2" between the very bottom of the wheel well opening and the tire so that I will be able to get the tire off when needed.
Next question, what rear end woud be best to use, I have a 12 bolt that came in the truck and a 9" out of a 77 Ford truck. If I screw the heim links half way in @ install on all bars would that leave me enough adjustment for the street?

Thanks for all the help.

[PGSigns]

Well post a pic of the four link kit you have and I will let you know on the brackets. Most of them we use go directly on the rail. Leave about 2 inches from the tires to the frame rail and at least an inch from the sidewall to the body. I always use the tires that will go on the vehicle on the rim and with 8 or 9 psi in a street tire. Then measure directly of the wheels to get a width on the rear end. The 9" will better in my book. A banjo housing is the easiest to work with. All welding gets done on the housing before the ends go on.
Jimmy

[Tim's68]

I think I figured out how to post pictures.
Do you think the ride height is to low? I would really like to lower it another couple inches, tuck the rear tires up in the wheel well but will probably leave it as is.
Like I posted earlier, I have the Scott's Super Slam front suspension with air, 9" rear end with Auto Weld Chassis 4-Link. Undesided on bags or coil overs in the rear. Thoughts...... air vs coil overs???
Anyone have any tips on building the rear frame rails? My plans are to fab them using 2" X 4" tube.
PGSigns take a look at the 4 link I have and give me your thoughts on the install location on the frame. If you dont mind.
Thanks everyone.

Tim.

[PGSigns]

I'll have to see what pictures I have from old builds. Take a look at this link to a 4 link from S&W racecars. This is what the frame rails will look like for the 4 link you have. You can do bags if you want but I think with the setup you have coil overs on all four corners would do well.
http://www.swracecars.com/store/6769...OSCAR_148.aspx
This job can go south quick so take your time and try and find someone in your area who does racecar chassis and see about getting some help.
Jimmy

[Tim's68]

What are good coil overs ( the rear ) for the street.

[PGSigns]

I have used these and they worked good on the street. http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/d...reet-star.html
Jimmy

[Tim's68]

Well, I havent made much progress since the last post.
What coil overs do you think I should run on the street. Ive been looking at the QA1's single adjustable. Your thoughts. What coil spring and spring rate should I use?
I appreciate everones help.

Tim.

[PGSigns]

For the street a shock with the poly ends would be good. Till you get a weight for the back it is hard to pick a spring rate.
Jimmy

[Tim's68]

I need some more direction here. When installing the link brackets do I keep the rear bracket mounting eyes in line with each other or could the upper eye be forward of the lower. Or do I plumb the back square portion of the bracket.
If I plumb the mounting eyes it throws my front mounting bracket in a odd angle. If you could look at the pictures in previous post and tell your opinion. Do my bars have to be equal length upper vs lower? Thanks

[PGSigns]

Looks like the brackets you have are designed to be straight up and down on the front bracket. Back ends up withe the top hole forward it looks like. Screw all the rod ends in till just about 4 threads showing past the lock nut and fit it up from there. Make sure you two upper and two lower bars are the same length. Tack weld everything until you have it all fitted up.
Jimmy

[Tim's68]

Just wanted to show what I have completed so far, still have a long ways to go. Also this is my first build so if you see something that needs to be changed please let me know.
I fabricated the back half out of 2"X4" .188" wall tube, most people say that its a overkill but oh well the damage is done.
The tires are 33X22X20 MT SSR's with 20"X16" Billet Specialties Stilettos.
The 4 link's a pro street set up.
Will have a 9" rear-end, waiting on that to be narrowed. To finish off the rear I have QA1 single adj coil overs.
I have a Scotts Super Slam front suspension going in once the rear is completed. Then take it back apart for powder coat.
Thanks for looking.
Tim
Attached Images

[Tim's68]

Just wanted to show what I have completed so far, still have a long ways to go. Also this is my first build so if you see something that needs to be changed please let me know.
I fabricated the back half out of 2"X4" .188" wall tube, most people say that its a overkill but oh well the damage is done.
The tires are 33X22X20 MT SSR's with 20"X16" Billet Specialties Stilettos.
The 4 link's a pro street set up.
Will have a 9" rear-end, waiting on that to be narrowed. To finish off the rear I have QA1 single adj coil overs.
I have a Scotts Super Slam front suspension going in once the rear is completed. Then take it back apart for powder coat.
Thanks for looking.
Tim
Attached Images

[SCOTI]

Looks good!