front suspension upgrade?

[bluechevy66]

Have any of you upgraded your front suspension on a 60 to 66 with a front end from a 73-87 and up to 91 suburban with disc brakes? I've heard it's almost a bolt on change with only a couple of holes to drill. Any help would be appreciated

[63burban]

That's exactly what it is, pretty much a direct fit plus a few holes. Gotta love GM !!

[60-66]

Night and day difference in turning and stopping. Currently doing it again on this 63.

[siggyfreud]

Yep. I just did this a bit ago. Two new holes to drill, two holes to "expand". Once you get the crossmember in place, line it up with holes going straight down through the frame, and then as many of the horizontal holes as possible. It'll become clear quickly quick holes need to be drilled new, and which ones need to be elongated. It's the same on both sides.

[PGSigns]

I have don the 65 and have the parts to do the 66. On the 65 I did not swap the cross member just everything else. On the 66 will swap it all.
Jimmy

[bluechevy66]

Very nice.... so is it just holes for the crossmember in the frame?

[siggyfreud]

If you're bringing everything over from the donor then yes it should just be holes in the crossmember.

[forestb]

If you have a 66 why bother? If you are looking for disks I have heard a lot of talk about using everything but the cross member on the truck from a later model truck with disks. I replaced mine and I am still wondering why.

[familyfast64]

I agree, I don't see much of a benefit unless you have the torsion bar suspension set up. Disc brakes will do the trick. Unless of coarse yours is just in bad shape or something then hey, Idk. There could be a lot of good reasons, nevermind my post. Keep at it, there's nothing wrong with that.

[encasedmetal]

Originally Posted by 60-66

Night and day difference in turning and stopping. Currently doing it again on this 63.

what steering shaft is that you're using for the power steering?

[60-66]

All of the steering linkage, crossmember, etc is all 1983 Chevy 1/2 ton. This way I'm not mixing and matching parts. Had to mount the newer style idler arm to make it all work but that's simple. This is the third time I've done it this way, it just gets easier. But I agree you really don't need to go this far .

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by 60-66

Night and day difference in turning and stopping. Currently doing it again on this 63.

do you have any pics of the mounting of the power steering gear? how you cut the frame? ect.

[encasedmetal]

Originally Posted by 60-66

All of the steering linkage, crossmember, etc is all 1983 Chevy 1/2 ton. This way I'm not mixing and matching parts. Had to mount the newer style idler arm to make it all work but that's simple. This is the third time I've done it this way, it just gets easier. But I agree you really don't need to go this far .

cool. I've got all 1980 front susp and power steering but didn't grab the steering shaft. my bad

[60-66]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

do you have any pics of the mounting of the power steering gear? how you cut the frame? ect.

Sorry I didn't think to do that . Honestly one of Captain Fabs brackets would do the job so no cutting is needed. This is a frame I started on three years ago and was experimenting . I would not mount or cut the frame exactly like this the next time. My only reason for doing this was to keep the steering box closer to the frame rail like factory.

[60-66]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

do you have any pics of the mounting of the power steering gear? how you cut the frame? ect.

Now that I've re read this, by steering shaft did you mean the one from steering wheel/ column down to the steering box ? That's just a shortened stock shaft cut and re welded.

[encasedmetal]

Originally Posted by 60-66

Now that I've re read this, by steering shaft did you mean the one from steering wheel/ column down to the steering box ? That's just a shortened stock shaft cut and re welded.

I think you are referring to my question- and yes that's what I meant. thanks for the info

[bluechevy66]

Originally Posted by forestb

If you have a 66 why bother? If you are looking for disks I have heard a lot of talk about using everything but the cross member on the truck from a later model truck with disks. I replaced mine and I am still wondering why.

I don't necessarily need the crossmember, just thought it might be easier to slide it all in as a unit instead of unbolting each piece. But, that's why I'm here asking questions... because while I have the skill to do all of this stuff, I don't have the knowlege yet.
You guys on here are WAY better than childers manuals or Google. In fact, when I first started looking for answers about my 66, every Google search pointed me here.
You dont know how much I appreciate all yous guys help!

[siggyfreud]

I personally think dropping the entire member in is easier, unless you plan to replace all the components anyways. For me going from a C20 to C10 I think the full swap was the easiest route though.

[Tx Firefighter]

I've done it both ways a good number of times. For me, it boils down to this.

If the engine is in place, I swap the newer parts to the existing crossmember. If the engine is out, I swap the crossmember and all.

Getting those lower control arm u bolts off with the engine in place sucks bad. No way to get the heavy guns in there and bang them off so you're forced to use a ratchet and wear yourself out cranking them off.