Need some input - '80 K30 Flatbed

[sdailey]

I'm usually over on the 67-72 side, but have been recently looking at a 1980 K30 with a flatbed and was wondering what I should be looking for. The truck would be used for trips to Home Depot and used around my deer lease primarily.

Few specs that I know....

454 engine
4spd tranny
NP205 ?????
AC and speedo aren't working
Dash cracked (no surprise there)


I'm still getting info from the owner, but not sure what I should be asking. The truck is 120 miles from me so it's a little difficult to go look at it.

I'm assuming the axles would be a Dana 60 up front and 14 bolt out back? It looks as though it has manual locking hubs intalled up front. They usually had auto locking hubs, I think? Were big blocks factory in these trucks? I'm pretty sure they were, but need confirmation.

Thoughts??

[V30 mongo]

Better check again. The truck in the picture looks more like a late 80's to early 90's. Big blocks only were in later model 4x4's. All one tons should have the NP205 transfer and the SM465 4-speed or the T-400 auto...

[special-K]

They came with all you describe. It would be a NP205 case and mist I've seen had manual hubs. You say '80,but what I see is what appears to be original '85+. That's a forever truck and unless you're not sure about the price,I'd go get it if I were you!

[sdailey]

Thought the front end looked newer just from the searches I've done but wasn't sure. Thanks for the feedback.

[mud.man.rj]

Nice truck and nicer powertrain, if the price is reasonable I would go get it.

[Zane M]

If the price isn't astronomical, and there aren't any major issues, I would be all over that in a heartbeat.

[rich weyand]

I'll take a shot at some things to check along the "major issues" line. I'm sure if I'm off-base, someone will jump in to correct me.

- Make sure the engine starts and runs, that all four gears work, that all modes on the transfer case work, that the clutch action isn't all the way at the bottom of the pedal, that the brakes work without major noises, heavy pulling to either side, vibration, or excessive pedal pressure. All of those can be pricey fixes if broken. The clutch is not parts-pricey, but labor-pricey because the transfer case, crossmember and transmission come out as a unit and it's a PITA.

- Check the oil. Put a couple drops from the dipstick on a piece of white paper towel. If the oil is black, the Qjet is leaking through the casting plugs and running richer than hell, particularly at idle, putting soot in the oil, in which case the Qjet needs to be rebuilt. Not a huge problem, but something you'll have to do; it'll never run right until you do it. If after having just run and mixed up the oil there are any tiny metal fragments in the oil, that could be big trouble. Also, if the oil is synth, you know the engine is tight, because synth will positively run out of any oil leaks. On the other hand, if it is a high-viscosity dino-oil, then the owner may be trying to keep oil in it by running heavier than normal oil.

- Check the frame rail around the steering box. Lots of force there, especially on a big K, and the frame rails can crack at the bolt holes. Can be fixed, but another thing for your list.

- Check all the attachment points of the leaf springs to the frame rails. Mud can get packed in there and expedite rusting. Again, can be fixed, not free.

- Visually inspect the frame rails to see if they are ok, not twisted or bent or overly (structurally, not surface) rusted. Also check that they haven't been extended -- no welding marks across the frame rails in the back between the cab and the rear spring mounts. That will be a weak spot.

- Inspect the floor boards from the bottom to see if immediate metal repairs will be required.

- Visually inspect the engine for leaks of oil, coolant, gas. Depending on location, some of these are big headaches, others are small headaches, and others are don't care. Most anything leaking from the head gaskets is bad, oil leaking from the valve covers is a "what else is new" kind of thing.

- Visually inspect all the leaf springs for broken leaves. The fronts will actually have a negative arch -- that's the way they came from the factory. The stance should be level or slightly higher in the back. Low in the back could mean the rear leafs are shot. Just take a small bubble level and check the flatbed. Check left to right as well -- big sag either way probably means new springs are in your future.

- Get the VIN from the seller and decode the VIN before you go see the truck. That'll tell you whether it came from the factory with the BBC or not. If not, all the running gear may not be correct for that engine.

- If you can, and it is still in the truck, get a picture of the RPO sheet (in the inside of the glove box door I think) from the owener before you go to look at the truck. Look up the codes and you will have a list of what the options were when it left the factory and you can compare that to what it is now to see what may have been (inexpertly) changed.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by special-K

That's a forever truck and unless you're not sure about the price,I'd go get it if I were you!

That's my opinion as well. That's a very rare and well optioned truck. As long as the guy isn't asking Barrett Jackson money, the mechanical issues wouldn't be too much a concern for me. What's a clutch job or suspension rebuild in the big scheme of things ? You're getting a big block, SM465, NP205, Dana 60, 14 bolt truck. That's the best stuff ever assembled into one GM truck. If you pass on it, you're gonna be looking a while before you find another.

[sdailey]

I appreciate all of the feedback. I'm still waiting for Vin# and picture of the spid label from the owner. Hoping to have that today. The owner stated that it is a factory correct truck. I'll confirm once I see the vin#. He also stated that it has Dana 60 up front and Dana 80 outback? Would that be correct?

I'll update when I have more info.

[Tx Firefighter]

That's a cab and chassis truck. The rearend will be a 14 bolt. My money says it will be 4.10 or 4.56 with a Govlock unit. With the SM465, it will not be a highway flier by any means. My cab and chassis (454, SM465, 14 bolt) had 4.56 gears and was geared well below modern freeway speeds. I swapped to a 4.10 and it's better, but still not a truck made for the fast lane on the freeway.

[sdailey]

Failed to mention that when he gave me the axle info he said that it had 4.11 gears.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That's my opinion as well. That's a very rare and well optioned truck. As long as the guy isn't asking Barrett Jackson money, the mechanical issues wouldn't be too much a concern for me. What's a clutch job or suspension rebuild in the big scheme of things ? You're getting a big block, SM465, NP205, Dana 60, 14 bolt truck. That's the best stuff ever assembled into one GM truck. If you pass on it, you're gonna be looking a while before you find another.

That's actually my opinion as well. My list of things to check was more in the line of knowing what it needed so you could set an offer that took into account what you had to put into it.

[sdailey]

Is it safe to assume that cab marker lights were optional?

[crashz]

Optional on most of the square bodies, but I think the cab and chassis trucks and dually trucks are standard with cab lights.

I'd echo the previous posts. 30's are keepers. Best and strongest of the bunch. Anything and everything can be fixed. Except for major frame rot. Rot has killed many good trucks here in the NE.

[sdailey]

Ok, I got the vin#. Gonna need some help decoding it. Any takers?

Vin# CKM34AB140495

[sdailey]

Any help with the vin?

[rich weyand]

C = Chevrolet
K = 4WD Chassis
M = 5.7 liter (350) Note 454 is S or W. Sure it's not a W?
3 = 1-ton
4 = Pick-up (not cab and chassis, which would be 3)
A = 1980 model year
B = Baltimore Assembly Plant
141495 = serial number: 40,495th unit built at this plant this year.

[sdailey]

Hmmm........I've tried to turn that "M" into a "W" but just can't make it happen. Maybe my eyes are bad.

Looks like a conversion, huh.

[Tx Firefighter]

I can't argue with the VIN decoding, but it looks like its got a cab and chassis rearend under it at this point. Looks pretty narrow.

If it does indeed have a dually rear under it, it will be a Dana 70. If its C&C, it will be a 14 bolt.

[sdailey]

The price is right, but I'm having reservations at this point, especially with the distance.

Decisions, decisions......

[Alan's Classic]

Just do it man. Does that help?

[sdailey]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Just do it man. Does that help?

Not really. You know you would have to ride along if I decide to get it.

[rich weyand]

Hey, I would rather have a recent 454 conversion than a 35-year-old 350, so I don't see the VIN-to-vehicle mismatch being a problem if the job was done right.

[Anchorism]

The way I see it is your using it for beater work. As long as its not rusted through or running poorly I would jump on it. Weve got an 82' flatbed K30 and its been used hauling horse trailers up and down a bumpy dirt road its entire life. Running on LP no less. It just had its first engine rebuild and is still a fricken beast! Almost the exact same look too!!

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by sdailey

Not really. You know you would have to ride along if I decide to get it.

Yes sir I need a good road trip. No pressure tho from me. Hehe