Rear cab panel 51 AD

[FarmerSid]

Josh. That's just Nason 2 part epoxy primer low VOC applied with a brush. The yellow is the same but some 2 part used in the aviation world. It was given to me with no label other than mixing instructions. I am using the grey now as I ran out of the yellow. Brushing it on in places I won't be able to get to later. Too lazy to mix up, spray and clean the gun.

Ever get those C notch dimension? How much higher your notch is above the factory notch.

[STOCKISH]

Yes sir, I thought I told you that when we talked the other night. The bottom of my notch is 6" above the bottom of my chassis main rails. I think thats only 2" higher than factory. I dont have a factory chassis here any more to compare against though. For my ride height I dont think I would even need to be any higher than factory at all. I will take and post a pic when we get back from hockey practice tonight. Hope it helps man.

[MARTINSR]

If you are going to bolt it in, you could use "Nutserts" like these and it would be much easier. Drilling the 3/8" holes up there for a 1/4" Nutsert should be do-able.



You can make a home made tool like this as I have used for years to install them.



But that would be a good way to do it too.

Brian

[STOCKISH]

Hre ya go Sid, hope it helps man.

[FarmerSid]

I don't understand Brian. The way I am planning on doing is the same as factory. I'd have to install the bolts from the inside up behind the inner panel.

Thanks for the picture Josh. So that picture is at ride height? If so, that's quite a bit of room for the axle travel.

[FarmerSid]

I just and measured mine and it is 4 5/8" from bottom of frame to bottom of notch. I will post a picture in the morning.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

I don't understand Brian. The way I am planning on doing is the same as factory. I'd have to install the bolts from the inside up behind the inner panel.

Thanks for the picture Josh. So that picture is at ride height? If so, that's quite a bit of room for the axle travel.

I'm not sure what you are doing then. Oh I see, you can put those nuts up over the top of the lip and plug weld them in, ahhhh. Then you will put the panel in place and going up from the bottom install the bolts into the nuts.

I was thinking that area where the nut was had no access, but there is some.

Carry on.

Brian

[FarmerSid]

The picture I posted of the nuts welded to plat bar is just like factory and is what is up in side the lip for those four bolts. I only know this as one broke free and fell out. I'm doing the same just more of them. I cut one of the lips out that had the 4 holes in it that the bolts went through to tied it all together. That made access easier and the lip on the belt line needs some attention in places so that's where I will spot weld on those nut and flat bar pieces.

[MARTINSR]

Got cha.

Brian

[STOCKISH]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

I just and measured mine and it is 4 5/8" from bottom of frame to bottom of notch. I will post a picture in the morning.

Yeah, mine isn't much higher than factory and doesn't even need to be for the IRS. Look forward to seeing the finished rear panel on your cab, it's looking great so far.

[FarmerSid]

Here's the height of the factory notch.

[gusman]

In regards to the back panel.. I ordered mine from LMC as it did not have a hole for the gas tank filler (relocated under the bed). It too me foreverrrrrrrrr to figure out how to get the old lower section off, so many spot welds. Mine too was rotted on the corners of the upper half of the cab. Only problem I had during assembly was the cab support (horizontal from door to door) just would not fit... I cut it in half and sectioned about 1/4" out, and all 4 bolt holes lined up great and the ends tucked in nice.. Then just spot welded the hell out of it. It was by far the most time consuming portion of my project thus far..

[FarmerSid]

Well.......I have been test fitting the new panel. Not fitting very good. If I get one side where it needs to be, the other side won't wrap around the door pillar very easy and won't tuck up under the belt line. It's like the panel is not wide enough. Got to be careful getting in into place so I don't damage it.

A bit confused on what you mean by:

"Only problem I had during assembly was the cab support (horizontal from door to door) just would not fit... I cut it in half and sectioned about 1/4" out, and all 4 bolt holes lined up great and the ends tucked in nice."

Mind explaining that a bit more?

I will update how things go today.

[MARTINSR]

Reproduction parts:
"Similar to original, can be used if nothing else is available".


Brian

[FarmerSid]

I see what you mean Brian......... Working on it now. Got it fitting better today but still have a ways to go to get the belt line correct all the way around.

Cab is square on the frame. Top of frame to bottom of belt line is the same measurement on both sides. Top of frame to floor is the same. Cab is fastened down so it doesn't move when trying to lift panel up and under the belt line. So worried that I'm going to dent or wrinkle the panel. It just won't go up easily. New panel seems to be hitting belt line below the window but needs to go up a good 1/4" at each door. Lots of clearance to go up at the inner cab corners and where the panel meets the floor.

Starting to get to me. Too early to have a beer and ponder.

[dwcsr]

It may make you life easier to remove the inner cab corners and fit the panel , then replace the inner corners

[FarmerSid]

Rear panel is going on for the last time tomorrow night! Fit now is bang on! Twisting, bending and tweaking finally got it. For the size of the panel, it fit really good right out of the box. Will post some pics once it's nailed in.

[FarmerSid]

Well people........I finally started a build thread! Everything from now on will be posted there. Here's a link to the build:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632938