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01-22-2004, 11:35 AM | #1 |
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Crossmember Removal ??
What is the easiest way to remove the complete front crossmember in a 70 C10 with the motor still in the truck? I'm replacing it with a 71. Are there any shortcuts?
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01-22-2004, 12:05 PM | #2 |
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Build a couple of strong supports that span from the core support to the firewall lip. Then get two big ratcheting straps and run from the supports to the engine. Then, you can remove the crossmember and engine mounts and the engine will hang by the supports. That way, there isn't a jack in your way underneath the truck.
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01-22-2004, 05:41 PM | #3 |
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Thanks, I'll try that.
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01-22-2004, 10:14 PM | #4 |
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before i did that id look at the upper and lower arms very closely.i'll bet they mount to the crossmember the same way.if they do theres no reason to change the crossmember.just change a-arms on out.
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01-22-2004, 10:28 PM | #5 |
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Yes, the arms do mount the exact same. The main advantage to swapping the whole crossmember is so you can use stock unaltered brake lines and hoses. The 71-72 brake lines run in front of the crossmember, the earlier ones, the rear.
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01-22-2004, 10:57 PM | #6 |
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Would Jackstands placed back on the frame work for this job..........?
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01-22-2004, 11:37 PM | #7 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Blue Beard, the issue is, the bottom of the engine stands bolt to the crossmember. Without the crossmember in place, nothing is supporting the engine. You can put a floor jack under the oil pan, but the jack will really be in the way as you're wrestling the front suspension around under there.
The idea I gave is pretty much what we do on front wheel drive cars when we remove the transaxle. One FWD cars, without the tranny in place, the engine will try to fall out the bottom. You just use a big metal bar from the core support back to the firewall and hang the engine from up above. Then, you can get serious about rolling around underneath without always bumping against a jack.
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01-22-2004, 11:50 PM | #8 |
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Sorry, lost myself...........having one of those senior moments..............
Other half says sometimes they've turned into days................
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01-22-2004, 11:59 PM | #9 |
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I shoulda took pictures when I made my swap. It was a piece of cake. Remove the inner fenders first. Remove shocks and sway bar if there is one. Unhook brake lines from wheel cylinders.
Front of the truck was raised and then supported under each frame rail , just aft of the curve, with jackstands. Support the engine with a floor jack and about a 1 ft. square of 3/4" plywood under the oilpan. This jack is positioned backwards and out of the way. You have no need to crawl around back there anyway. Unbolt the engine mount towers from the x-member but not from the frame rails so you still have partial support of the engine during the swap. Between the upper tower mounts and oilpan support you have enough to hold your engine safely in place, no problemo. Unbolt the cross member to frame brackets from the frame rails. Unbolt the frame rail to crossmember bolts. Another floor jack is used to lower the old crossmember and position the new one in place for boltup. Its handy to have someone around to gently rock the crossmember out from between the frame rails while you slowly lower the jack.
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1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first. Last edited by Southpa; 01-23-2004 at 12:15 AM. |
01-23-2004, 10:09 AM | #10 |
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Thanks everyone for all the help. I'm going to tackle it this weekend.
Thanks Again, Mark |
01-23-2004, 10:27 AM | #11 |
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Southpa, thats the idea I was refering to using the jackstands.........
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