Faded 87 soon to be LS powered

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by aggie91

See my comments in BLUE above...

Thanks for info, I will read some more on it. Need to get it done sometime soon now...

[Raceaprilia]

Rear flip kit is installed. It sits nice and low at back now. Not able to post any pics from this computer. Still waiting on new wheels to get in to be able to drop it at front also without trimming A arms.
I read bit more about harness and did good bit of work on it already this week. Main goal was to clean it up, get it on engine and reroute it as it will be. That part is easier while engine is out of the truck. I will finish hooking up fuse box and relays after engine is in truck since I was waiting too long to order components and they are not here yet plus I do not have location of fuse box figured out yet. Weekend plan is to get engine and trans in truck. Need to get donor truck leftovers out of the way to the scrapyard too to get couple $$ for metal.

[scottybaccus]

What size wheels are you using? My 17"s required trimming the control arms.

[Hankster]

I'll be watching this one!

[UKNOWME]

Sub'd

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by scottybaccus

What size wheels are you using? My 17"s required trimming the control arms.

I will run 20". There should be plenty of clearance. I run 18" on blue with 2,5 spindles and it clear too. But I run CPP tubular arms on blue and that make difference too.

[Raceaprilia]

Finally pulled 305 out yesterday. Moment of truth today when I will drop Ls in it. Hope all the mounts and headers will fit together nice between the frame...

There is wire pack getting from cab in firewall on passenger side for engine. Is any of the wires still needed in the engine compartment?

[66LSx]

Originally Posted by Raceaprilia

Finally pulled 305 out yesterday. Moment of truth today when I will drop Ls in it. Hope all the mounts and headers will fit together nice between the frame...

There is wire pack getting from cab in firewall on passenger side for engine. Is any of the wires still needed in the engine compartment?

To trigger your computer power source relay and fuel pump relay you'll want to use the distributor 12V source wire....

This way your computer and fuel pump relays stay energized both in the 'run' position and in the 'crank' position.

Otherwise besides a few engine ground leads... the rest is bye bye. (pay attention as I am not familiar with 87 engine harnesses... but you could save/salvage water temp or oil pressure sender electrical leads if you 'wanted to' but otherwise just run new ones thru the firewall back to the dash.

[jcwieck85]

Subscribed
Great ideas and inspiration. Planning on a ls swap for my 85 k10 this summer with a similar build plan, keep the cost reasonable and make a reliable driver.
We’ll see how that cost thing goes.

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by 66LSx

To trigger your computer power source relay and fuel pump relay you'll want to use the distributor 12V source wire....

This way your computer and fuel pump relays stay energized both in the 'run' position and in the 'crank' position.

Otherwise besides a few engine ground leads... the rest is bye bye. (pay attention as I am not familiar with 87 engine harnesses... but you could save/salvage water temp or oil pressure sender electrical leads if you 'wanted to' but otherwise just run new ones thru the firewall back to the dash.

I just left all wires still in for now. I guess I can still cut it later.

Engine is in, it sits in about same position as SBC. It was not too big of a challenge for one man job. Tried test fit headers - passenger side will slide in but very close to the engine mount bracket. I will have to take some material off to clear. I was not even able to slide driver side in. Might have to lift engine back up another day to try that way. I did not want to mount them on before since I was working alone on it and would make damage on it for sure. Will call Gibson also if they have any suggestions before I make scratches on that nice header finish Pics will follow another day...

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by jcwieck85

Subscribed
Great ideas and inspiration. Planning on a ls swap for my 85 k10 this summer with a similar build plan, keep the cost reasonable and make a reliable driver.
We’ll see how that cost thing goes.

I will post all the cost related to engine swap when done with it. It is adding up for sure. Need to keep this one on the low as much as I can. Already spend more than expected on wheels, tires and suspension but don't we all

[Raceaprilia]

Couple pics of the weekend progress. I had to paint brake booster and inner fender. But at least I did not go all crazy on this one, spray can did the job. Not sure if LS engine is lighter than old setup - It was sitting high up front but getting worse now with Ls in it. Rear is 6"flip. I guess its calling for more than 4" drop up front to even it out...

[Raceaprilia]

Some more...

[Hankster]

That Ls looks so good in there.

[aggie91]

Saw your PM, thought I would post the info here so you and others can see it too.

Here is the sender conversion write up I did:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651699

Here are the adapters needed for the GM fuel lines on the engine:

for the 5/16" return line: Russel #644113
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644113/overview/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/644113/10002/-1

for the 3/8" supply line: Russel #644123
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644123/overview/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/644123/10002/-1


I put in a 40 micron fuel filter in the supply line between the pump and the engine. like this one:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...15033/10002/-1

I just used regular SS braided hose and -6 AN fittings as needed to route the lines. Next time I do this I will use the new nylon braided line, I like the look better...

[scottybaccus]

The LS is lighter. I cut 3/4 of one coil off the springs.

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Saw your PM, thought I would post the info here so you and others can see it too.

Here is the sender conversion write up I did:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651699

Here are the adapters needed for the GM fuel lines on the engine:

for the 5/16" return line: Russel #644113
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644113/overview/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/644113/10002/-1

for the 3/8" supply line: Russel #644123
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644123/overview/
http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/644123/10002/-1


I put in a 40 micron fuel filter in the supply line between the pump and the engine. like this one:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...15033/10002/-1

I just used regular SS braided hose and -6 AN fittings as needed to route the lines. Next time I do this I will use the new nylon braided line, I like the look better...

I don't know how I could missed that write-up. Thanks for info.

I am clear now with tank/sender/pump/fitting. Will buy all new to keep troubles away. I think that I need to do something different on intake side. Supply is I guess same as your, but return is different the way I understand your writeup. If I understand correct I need inline fuel pump/regulator such as AC Delco GF 822 between frame and connect sender 3/8 line to input on pump and lead 5/16 back to sender. Output of the filter/regulator go to the fuel supply on engine. Now where do I connect my black return line from intake?

It look like similar setup is already on my stock 87 EFI.

Not sure about existing connectors on 87, did not pull fuel tank/sender from truck yet to see. Would like to make list of all parts needed prior and then order all together at once.

With new SS braided lines - any preferred place that u have to buy SS braided fuel lines (price/quality)? What is estimated length of it needed for SWB?

Thanks

[66LSx]

Originally Posted by Raceaprilia

I don't know how I could missed that write-up. Thanks for info.

I am clear now with tank/sender/pump/fitting. Will buy all new to keep troubles away. I think that I need to do something different on intake side. Supply is I guess same as your, but return is different the way I understand your writeup. If I understand correct I need inline fuel pump/regulator such as AC Delco GF 822 between frame and connect sender 3/8 line to input on pump and lead 5/16 back to sender. Output of the filter/regulator go to the fuel supply on engine. Now where do I connect my black return line from intake?

It look like similar setup is already on my stock 87 EFI.

Not sure about existing connectors on 87, did not pull fuel tank/sender from truck yet to see. Would like to make list of all parts needed prior and then order all together at once.

With new SS braided lines - any preferred place that u have to buy SS braided fuel lines (price/quality)? What is estimated length of it needed for SWB?

Thanks

Black line you have in your hand is the fuel EVAP line... goes to a solenoid in the front of the intake behind the throttle body.... vacuum cap the solenoid, discard the hose.

2004+ 5.3L engines are returnless in the fuel rails as the fuel pressure is already regulated at 58 PSI if your using a vette filter setup.

You'll need whomever doing your programing to cancel out the fuel EVAP
If branden @ LT1 did your programming... 99.999% chance he already removed it

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by 66LSx

Black line you have in your hand is the fuel EVAP line... goes to a solenoid in the front of the intake behind the throttle body.... vacuum cap the solenoid, discard the hose.

2004+ 5.3L engines are returnless in the fuel rails as the fuel pressure is already regulated at 58 PSI if your using a vette filter setup.

You'll need whomever doing your programing to cancel out the fuel EVAP
If branden @ LT1 did your programming... 99.999% chance he already removed it

That was fast, thanks.
Yes he did the programming for me, when I followed harness instructions that wire was cut off it too. I can go ahead and order parts now.

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by scottybaccus

The LS is lighter. I cut 3/4 of one coil off the springs.

I forgot to put both engine setup on scale to see difference on it. I have spare 3" drop coils - I might stick them in to see how it sit when changing spindles out.

[66LSx]

My fuel system in a simple nutshell.

Top center of tank (in-tank Stealth Aeromotive 340) is 3/8" SST/Teflon lined to corvette regulator on bottom of picture.

5/16" SST/Teflon return line to top left of tank (in-tank baffled tube return)

3/8" Supply SST/Teflon line all the way along frame to fuel rail. (rubber clip supported along the way)

(note past the corvette regulator/filter is a fuel PSI sender for my gauges)

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by 66LSx

My fuel system in a simple nutshell.

Top center of tank (in-tank Stealth Aeromotive 340) is 3/8" SST/Teflon lined to corvette regulator on bottom of picture.

5/16" SST/Teflon return line to top left of tank (in-tank baffled tube return)

3/8" Supply SST/Teflon line all the way along frame to fuel rail. (rubber clip supported along the way)

(note past the corvette regulator/filter is a fuel PSI sender for my gauges)

Will I have any problems using Russell fittings on Earls hose? This is the hose I was looking: http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...6erl/overview/

Fittings are on attachment.

[66LSx]

Curious on your fittings your using at the engine rails and vette regulator.... (Hopefully you don't mine me commenting on your entire diagram)


644120 is what I used on the engine fuel rail and on the 3/8" supply side of the vette regulator.

644110 is what I used on the 5/16" return on the vette regulator.

If you wanted black in color vs. blue I show 644127 and RUS-644113

VERIFY your rail fittings...


Rest of the fittings I can't comment on as I used braided SST with PTFE hose vs. rubber hose on the inside... but 300106 did not come back as any part number....


I'm going to caution you about rubber hoses... You may/will get a gas smell permeating thru the rubber hose. If you read the 'warnings' on the hose tab you will even notice Earls/Summit Racing disclose this too. I used this SST/Teflon hose (SUM-220985) and then the special PTFE AN hose fittings (PTFE lined braided SST is different than rubber lined braided SST) I thought the PTFE hose fittings were ALOT easier to work with. You can see how simple PTFE hose fittings are in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5tZM6as-zU

I HIGHLY recommend you don't fast foward thru anything and listen to the explanations of the differences between rubber vs. ptfe along with the differnces in hose end fittings.... also... how simple it is to build these hoses vs. the old rubber ferrule inserts that rubber/SST -AN lines use.

SST Braided/Rubber fuel hose lines will need to be rebuilt every 4-8 years as the newer fuels will eventually eat them down.

[Raceaprilia]

Originally Posted by 66LSx

Curious on your fittings your using at the engine rails and vette regulator.... (Hopefully you don't mine me commenting on your entire diagram)


644120 is what I used on the engine fuel rail and on the 3/8" supply side of the vette regulator.

644110 is what I used on the 5/16" return on the vette regulator.

If you wanted black in color vs. blue I show 644127 and RUS-644113

VERIFY your rail fittings...


Rest of the fittings I can't comment on as I used braided SST with PTFE hose vs. rubber hose on the inside... but 300106 did not come back as any part number....


I'm going to caution you about rubber hoses... You may/will get a gas smell permeating thru the rubber hose. If you read the 'warnings' on the hose tab you will even notice Earls/Summit Racing disclose this too. I used this SST/Teflon hose (SUM-220985) and then the special PTFE AN hose fittings (PTFE lined braided SST is different than rubber lined braided SST) I thought the PTFE hose fittings were ALOT easier to work with. You can see how simple PTFE hose fittings are in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5tZM6as-zU

I HIGHLY recommend you don't fast foward thru anything and listen to the explanations of the differences between rubber vs. ptfe along with the differnces in hose end fittings.... also... how simple it is to build these hoses vs. the old rubber ferrule inserts that rubber/SST -AN lines use.

SST Braided/Rubber fuel hose lines will need to be rebuilt every 4-8 years as the newer fuels will eventually eat them down.

Not at all, comments are great here.

Can u share fittings also for the hose u used - SUM-220985? I will go this route to do it right the first time.

[66LSx]

Originally Posted by Raceaprilia

Not at all, comments are great here.

Can u share fittings also for the hose u used - SUM-220985? I will go this route to do it right the first time.

90* Summit PTFE 6-AN
SUM-250687

Straight Summit PTFE 6-AN
SUM-250690

Heres my full order copy relating to engine fueling etc. (please note I left out alot as I had pressure gauge senders, adapters etc but.... it should get you in the right direction)

RUS-640940 FUEL RAIL ADAPTER FITTING
$11.97

RUS-644110 LT1 QUICK CONNECT FUEL FITTING
$14.97

RUS-644120 LT1 QUICK CONNECT FUEL FITTING
$14.97 x 2 = $29.94 (one @ engine, one @ vette reg 3/8 supply)

SUM-220985 PTFE HOSE -6AN X 20' ROLL
$69.97

WIX-33737 FUEL FILTER/REGULATOR VETTE
$39.97

SUM-250690 -6 STRAIGHT PTFE FITTING $10.97 ea
I had 3 on the regulator, one at engine rail.. your line layout may differ

SUM-250687 -6 90 PTFE FITTING $14.97 ea
I had used these on the top of my fuel tank.... your line layout may differ

MEASURE FIRST!.... I DONT REMEMBER! but I think... think.. vacuum cap for the EVAP solenoid was this: RNB-650-007

Also if you would need it for engine cooling temp on the LS blocks....
Passenger side cylinder head rear has a metric 'pipe plug' in it that can be removed and have this: Auto Meter 2277 put into it to convert the metric threads to accept an 'inch' NPT sender for engine cooling temp.



Theres also the metric to 6-AN transmission cooling adapters also if your planning on using any time of AN hose for 4L60e trans fluid...... (I used PTFE as I had ordered extra fittings.... ANY type of pressure-rated hose usually does the job though. (trans fluid isnt as corrosive as fuel) For reference later on 4L60e to 6-AN SUM-220027




Apologies for the thread jack... hopefully you don't mind. Any further questions... do ask.. I was pretty 'uptight' about my record keeping on my 66 C10 LS swap.