CPP Drop Spindles - Distance Between Ball Joints

[mroho]

Hello all,

Hoping for a little help/confirmation...

Just getting ready to install my 2 1/2" drop spindles, 3" lowering springs and disc brakes from CPP. I just noticed that the distance between ball joints on the new drop spindles is approximately 9", where as on my old drum spindles, it is approximately 8" (see aaacted picture). Will this be an issue? Did I get the right spindles?

Combine this potential issue with my new lowering springs which are shorter than my old springs (even with a clamp on them). Will these fit between my control arms tight enough with the larger spacing from my spindles?

For those who have lowered their trucks, does this look right? Before I start installing these, I just wanted to get some feedback from you guys.

Thanks in advance.
Mike

[mroho]

Another picture.

[mroho]

Last picture.

[4dalulz]

Im pretty sure you have to run disc brakes with the drop spindles.. Ive heard a lot of their stuff is pretty notorious for not fitting... let me know how it goes though as I am close to a purchase myself.. thanks

[mroho]

Thanks 4dalulz.

I'll be converting to disc's now too. Anyone else know if this will be an issue?

The rear suspension and disc brakes from CPP that I've installed have for good so far.

I'm not located too far from you in Alberta.

[Gooker928]

It will work.
I have the 3 1/2 drop spindles and I have no issues.
I will bring your wheels out about a inch on each side though.

[mroho]

Gooker928 - do you recall if the spacing between ball joints between your new drop spindles and old spindles was similar? Or off by an inch as well?

Thanks,
Mike

[PGSigns]

It will all work fine. Springs are not an issue as they don't go between the arms. Just make sure you get the springs centered in the upper register in the cross member and clocked to match the stamping in the lower control arm. Be a good time to trim or remove the rubber bump stop from the lower control arm.
Jimmy

[mroho]

Thanks for the info PGSigns.

Looking at them in more detail today, I'm thinking I might have the wrong spindles, or wrong ball joints. The spindle is too thick for the lower ball for it to seat properly (I'm planning on using existing). I'm out by at least 1/4" (see attached pictures). The upper ball joint mount is close in measurement.

Can anyone confirm if they used their original ball joints for use with the CPP drop spindles? Or do I need to upgrade?

Or......just looking at the CPP website, I have the CP4S4 (L and R) which says they for the 73-87. According to their website, it says I should be using the CP4S2 (L and R) for the 63-70. Wonder why they sent me these? Can anyone confirm which spindles they are using on their 60-66. My truck is a 66 C10. Can I use the CP4S4 (L and R) on a 66?

Thanks,
Mike

[PGSigns]

You can use them with a ball joint swap or upgrading to the 73 to 87 control arms. You will also need to deal with the tie rod ends as they are also different. On both of my trucks I have done the complete swap to 73 to 87 so no issues. Your easiest solution is to get the right spindles from them.
Jimmy

[mroho]

Thanks Jimmy. I'm going to give CPP a call today and see if I can get them swapped to the correct ones. I figured they weren't the right ones.

[mooseknuckles]

....would it not be easier/cheaper to swap ball joints, and tie rod ends? you already have the spindles...and you're probably due for new ball joints anyway, and you'd be better off to stick with the 73-87 upgrade....?

[mroho]

Mooseknuckles - thanks for your input. Is there a benefit to upgrading to 73-87? Better parts? More accessibility to parts?

[PGSigns]

The parts are a little easier to get and if you plan to do power steering and a front end rebuild it can be easily done with a donor front end. The tie rods and ball joints are bigger as you can see from your measurements. I have used the later stuff on both the trucks I have now and rebuilt it all before doing the swap. I also did the mod to the lower shaft from the make it handle thread. That allowed me to get 5 degrees of caster and I like the way it drives with it.
Jimmy

[forestb]

I would just exchange them unless you need new ball joins anyway. Might as well keep it simple with all the same year stuff on there.

[mroho]

Thanks everyone.

Does anyone know if by using the 73-87 spindles, will it lower or raise the truck any compared to the original spindles? Does the extra 1 inch spacing between the ball joints affect the truck height at all?

Mike

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by mroho

Thanks everyone.

Does anyone know if by using the 73-87 spindles, will it lower or raise the truck any compared to the original spindles? Does the extra 1 inch spacing between the ball joints affect the truck height at all?

Mike

No.
You are over thinking this.

The coil spring is "sandwiched" between the lower a-arm and the spring pocket of the frame.
Not between a-arms.

If anything,... the taller height of the spindle, will just move the upper a-arm "up" in the vertical direction.
The spring will dictate ride height,... along with the amount of drop in the spindle.
(2", 2.5", or 3")

The spindle spacing, between balljoints,... has been in place since 1971 and thru 1987, (and thru the 1991 model year 2wd suburban).
You will be fine.

[lolife99]

And,... there is no way to EXACTLY calculate you drop compared to where your truck use to set.
Your old coil springs were worn and sagging.
You are adding NEW drop springs.
Defining a 3" drop spring is only relevant to a new stock height spring.

Here's my truck with 2.5" drop spindles and 3" drop springs up front.

[Ratpin]

Nice truck Keith!