My '85 truck build

[85k30]

That should put me up to date on the progress of the truck. It runs and drives. I've put about 100 miles on it. The only problem is the throttle pedal sensor. I used a pedal from a '98 6.5 chevy diesel. It bolted right up and it works fine, but when you mash it to the floor it reads past 100% throttle and sets a code. The truck goes into limp mode and will only idle tell you clear the code. Just need to build a stopper, or bend the pedal assm a little.
I am currently waiting for a spot in the body shop, so I can get the interior painted. Then comes all the leather interior panels, headliner, door panels, and carpet.
I have tons of photos that I didn't use on here. So if there is something you want see or know just ask.

[85k30]

It was a tight fit, but the factory computer fit where the old spark control computer was.

[MTCK]

Very nice work. Do you have any videos of her running or hauling the mail?

[85k30]

I haven't driven it all that much. The interior is all gutted, waiting to get painted. It's been sitting frozen solid in the driveway most of the winter. It doesn't have any ducting for the heater, or defrost. I might drive it this weekend, do a little prospecting. We are having some weird warm weather here! Its 60 degrees outside today. Average temp for this time of year any other year is 60-80 degrees colder.

[496 BB]

Doing this same thing here but only in the planning phase and actual stage on engine. I see yours is 05 but did you do the harness yourself or go with Howell or something? Im trying to find a correct pinout everywhere for an 01 (which were different than 03+) and cant find a thing. Getting an Alldata printout later this week to see what matches on the Prodemand and MotoLogic Ive already got.

What headers did you use? Seems I may be PMing you some more questions cause yours in exactly what I wanting to do. Clean and nothing cheap used. I can respect that trait.

[85k30]

Originally Posted by 496 BB

Doing this same thing here but only in the planning phase and actual stage on engine. I see yours is 05 but did you do the harness yourself or go with Howell or something? Im trying to find a correct pinout everywhere for an 01 (which were different than 03+) and cant find a thing. Getting an Alldata printout later this week to see what matches on the Prodemand and MotoLogic Ive already got.

What headers did you use? Seems I may be PMing you some more questions cause yours in exactly what I wanting to do. Clean and nothing cheap used. I can respect that trait.

Thanks. I was going to buy a new truck, but decided to build this one like a new truck instead.
My harness started out a Howell harness. Turned out to be a huge waiste of time and money! I wont be using them on my next build. There are 4 or 5 other companies that build a great harness. I spent a fortune having to buy all the connecters, colored wire, special pliers, loom, shrink tubing to rebuild my harness myself. I found a pin out for mine, but I cant remember what web site.
My headers are headman. They were the only 304 stainless full length truck headers I could find. Hope this helps.

[MTCK]

Sorry to hear about the Howell harness. I was planning on getting one from them. What all was wrong with it?

[Jake Wade]

Very nice build! What are the steps and products used to get aluminum looking like that?

[85k30]

When I ordered the harness I wanted it to run down both valve covers instead of down the middle of the intake like the factory one does. The salesman told me no problem. I also told them that I was using the work horse brackets on the front not the factory brackets. Again I was told no problem. It showed up built just like a harness for a factory truck harness, made to run down the center of the intake with the accesories in the stock locations. I called and talked to the owner, who informed me that they dont build custom harnesses. So I built a correct length harness out of rope, with paracord zip tied to it with all the leads labled and the correct length I needed with the harness and sent it back to be fixed.
I waited two months for them to fix the problem. When I called I was told that they were busy, and it could take three or four more months for them to get around to it. I told them to send it back and I would do it myself. They sent it back, only after I paid the freight.

[496 BB]

Sounds about right for companies these days. Sucks your headers are Heddman as I just wrote them off due to a set I have of their Elite series rusting after 1 year. Said they would cover the recoating but I had to pay freight there and back. Told em that was BS and have not heard back yet. Great customer service as usual. THIS is why I do everything myself and try to get the best of the best. I'll have someone fab me a set of SS before I go with them again.

On your harness I get what your saying. I didnt want all that hassle as well. Thus doing it myself. Just hard for 01-02 but think I got it tracked down this week.

Ive done plenty of aluminum polishing and I cant even imagine how long all that took you. Unreal. Its looks great and I suggest you seal it or it will look like ass in no time. Ive used a product called Glisten PC by POR 15 with decent results but have no idea about the heat issues. So cant say for sure. Your pretty patient....lol. I cant say Id take the time to do all that even though its pretty sweet. Good for you.

SHow me some pics of how you layed out harness on engine if you can. I was thinking same thing but not sure how it would lay it. Then I was thinking about putting coil packs in back and throw on some fabbed valve covers until I saw they are different bolt patterns than BBC. SO Im leaving it for now. Painting engine body color and may paint valve covers. Want to kinda make it look like it was in there from the factory so dont need alot of jazz. Im a subtle type guy anyways. But its the little details that make it work for me. Like yours. Very nice. One of the nicest Ive seen on here.

[85k30]

Polishing isn't all that hard. It just takes lots of time! First you have to file, grind all the big imperfections out. Then comes the sanding. Cartridge rolls work great for this. Eastwood sells a bunch of different kinds. Also they sell a machinist's grease that helps make the rolls last longer. I used at least 3 steps of progressively finer sand paper before I started polishing. Usually ending in 600-800 grit. Be sure to wear a mask, as aluminum is very bad for you to breath in.

Same goes for polishing. You start with a coarse abrasive like emery, and work your way up to tripoli, and then to white rouge or even jewelers rouge. You need to have separate polishing wheels, pads and cones for each abrasive. So you don't contaminate them with each other. And after all that you need to seal it, so it stays that way. I used a sealer called Shine Seal. It comes as a three part sealer, and works great.

Here are a few pics of the polishing process.
Beginning stages of the throttle body.

Front of alternator compared to the unfinished rear.

[85k30]

Its kinda hard to see the harness. I ran it through the grommet where the factory spark advance harness came through. It splits and goes to each side of the intake, running down both sides. It runs with the harness for the coil packs.

[496 BB]

So you ran your PCM inside?

[85k30]

Yeah I mounted it behind the glove box. I posted a few pictures of it crammed up in there.

[496 BB]

Yea I see now. Didnt pay attention before.

Id ask you what wire color the vss was in your tcm but you had the 6 speed so nevermind. Im just going thru it all today and starting the harness. Got all the C152 out plus a/c. egr, evap, ect. Got to wait on pinouts for rest.

[85k30]

Found some time to tinker on the truck today. I have a np205 now and not the original np208. So the shift boot didnt fit. I looked at a bunch of different shift boots, and trim rings for a 205 but couldn't find one I liked. I decided to just make the factory shifter work. Because it lit up with the park lights and it made the 4x4 light in the dash illuminate. I had to modify the insides of it so the thicker shift lever would work. And the shift pattern was backwards. I tried to remove the plastic lense, but it broke. I made a new one from a peice of lexan and glued it in. Just need a stencil and some paint to fix the shift pattern. Think anyone will notice something looks different?

[aggie91]

Man those polished factory parts look awsome. love the color combo you chose. What is the name or code of the lighter color?

[85k30]

Yeah the two colors turned out pretty good together. The brown is golden bronze metallic from a 2011+ ford truck. And the lighter color is just one I found in a color chip booklet. Its not a factory color on anything. It doesnt even have a name, just a paint code. I will look for the paint code

[496 BB]

With that being lexan you could do as you say and get some stickers to put over where you want and then frost rest of it then remove stickers. Then back light it all with LEDs. Or just paint backside black instead of frosting. Personally Id go to a sign shop and get it custom made for it. Easier and would look alot better imo.

[496 BB]

Now you got me on a damn polishing kick. Starting stripping valve covers today with chemical stripper. 01-02's where coated. **** is on there. Think Im only gonna do those. Block will be orange, brackets aluminum, a/c, alt, and PS all black. All with Eastwood ceramic engine paint. Then will paint coils orange and have polished valve covers.

I dont even know why Im going to all this trouble for an engine few will see....lol.

[85k30]

Yeah I was gunna have the local decal place cut me a negative template. I was gunna just paint the numbers white like factory then remove the template. It already has a light inside that lights up with the park lights.

[85k30]

Polishing is very time consuming! But it looks awesome on these engines! Everyone who sees it just smiles and then asks "what is it ?" Lol

[1969x11]

Originally Posted by 85k30

The HUGE zf650 manual trans turned out to be the only challenge on this build. I had Offroad Design make a np205 with a 29 spline shaft to match the trans. I also had Trail Tuff Fab machine an adapter to bolt them together after a clocked it up and out of the way.
Attachment 1360753

How much did they charge for the adapter? Im doing an Allison to np205 and that adapter would probably work for my application. Thanks and awesome project!!!

[mattcrp1]

Wow, that is a nice build.

[85k30]

Originally Posted by 1969x11

How much did they charge for the adapter? Im doing an Allison to np205 and that adapter would probably work for my application. Thanks and awesome project!!!

I got it from Trail Tech Fab. Not trail tuff fab like I posted before. I think it was $320 shipped. It was listed for an allison or a nv4500. It worked because all three share the same bolt pattern just clocked a little different.