Recommended Oil?

[RaptorSentry]

I just got my engine rebuilt and my machinist said I should be running either 15w40 or 20w50, with an API of SL or earlier with ZDDP. So far the only street legal oils that that meet the above criteria I can find are the Royal Purple HPS 20w50 or Amsoil ZRod 20w50. Anybody know of any other street legal oils that meet the above criteria, and which one provides the best protection? As I want to keep this 350 running as long as possible.

[Mr Handy]

im going to be running the royal purple in my crate 350, and a lot of guys like the amsoil as well. These are probably the 2 most commonly available and you can always get them on line as well.
I won't speculate on the weight because I have no idea how you engine is built, I would have to go with what the builder said to use... but 20-50 in a rebuild motor sounds a little thick to me

[Steve Cole]

Look into the Joe Gibbs Driven line of oils. A lot of car and truck shows on tv use it, supposed to be really good.

[RaptorSentry]

I looked at Joe Gibbs, but the only one that met all the requirements was the XP5 which was a racing oil, and my understanding does not support 3000 mile change intervals nor legal to use on the street.

[dpike97701]

I can't speak for Royal Purple. I use Amsoil in everything and have never had a problem. I really like the stuff.

DP

[Ironangel]

"ZDDP" is the key. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=381780 I use to run Mobil 1 4T racing oil in my 79/80 KZ-1000 drag bike until I wised up and stopped spending $60 at every oil change. I run Rotella-T diesel truck oil in all my vehicles and add one pint of the cheapest undiscovered ZDDP additive on the shelf for insurance. STP oil additive is ZDDP...Add that to practically any dino oil and your good to go in flat tappet motors. The other VERY important key is to change your oil often! The bike has 50K miles and still blowing Hardley's right off the street. My newest vehicle, a 91 Jeep Cherokee has 350K miles on that 4L inline six and will still melt tires...As long as the oil has ZDDP in it and you change it often, your good to go...

[RichardJ]

I've read a bunch of stuff about selecting a good oil for older flat tappet engines. Some of it I understood and some of it I just hoped I understood.
The bottom line is that oils with the Starburst Oil Symbol are approved for modern engines with roller or sliding tappets.

Avoid any oil with the Starburst on the label and you will be OK. That does not include motorcycle oils or lawn mower oils as they have totally different requirements and never should be considered for automotive use.




I have been using 5W30 Quaker Defy.

90% of engine wear occurs in the first couple of seconds when you start up a cold engine. Oil pressure senders are always located near the oil pump. That means the oil gauge will show pressure before the 20W50 molasses is half way down the oil galley. The heavy oil will also force the filter by-pass valve open, sending unfiltered oil into your cold engine.

If you want to use 20W50 you should have big racing clearances and a pressurized pre-oiler.

[lolife99]

Good read here:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...ppet-oils.html

[GASoline71]

I have been running plain ol' 10w-30 with Comp Cams break in additive at every oil change for almost 12 years. No problems yet, and I have high spring pressures and a radical flat tappet camshaft.

Gary

[RRR18]

Heard real good thingshttp://www.renegaderacefuel.com/lubricants/
Hope that this thread doesn't turn into a pissing contest.

[RaptorSentry]

My understanding is that racing oil is not legal to use on the street, and not intended to use extended intervals (e.g. 3000 miles). Am I wrong?

[Ironangel]

I wouldn't trip on whats "legal for street use"..."If it's good for your motor, it's probably bad for the environment"..."just sayin"

[Fldawg]

i use brad penn 10w30 it's one of the oils with the highest level of zinc in it, been using it for 4 years now no problems, the not for street use is for the newer vehicles, the high content of zinc seems to cause probelms for cars with catalytic converters

[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by Fldawg

i use brad penn 10w30 it's one of the oils with the highest level of zinc in it, been using it for 4 years now no problems, the not for street use is for the newer vehicles, the high content of zinc seems to cause probelms for cars with catalytic converters

That's great to know. I found a local supplier that stocks the Brad Penn 10w30. I just did my initial oil change at 500 miles last week. I've been checking my oil everytime I take the truck out checking to make sure I don't have a metallic sheen or metal particles in it. The truck has been running great I've just been nervous from all the conflicting ZDDP info I've read. This info rest my worries. I also used a Wix filter too.

[Greasey Harley]

After a rash of flat cams, My local machine shop sent samples of oil with different types of zinc. Everything from house brand with additives (Lucas break in additive, etc, to VR1 racing oil. Lab results were conclusive.
NONE of the tested break in additives had a sufficient amount of zinc for proper break in.
This shop is a Joe Gibbs Racing Oil distributor
Their recommendation for flat tappet motors ...Lucas break in oil (NOT BREAK IN ADDITIVE)
Absolutely, for break in and ( they said) not a bad idea all the time.
I asked them " Lucas? not Joe Gibbs?" He responded Lucas is cheaper.
Lucas HotRod oil also tested well, just slightly less zink.

[greenmonsterC20]

I use Brad Penn 10W-40.

[ElKotze]

So called "Fleet oils" or "high mileage oils" contain a sufficient amount of ZDDP for flat tapped motors. Personally, I use NAPA 15w-40 Premium Fleet, it's made by Valvoline.