Question for vortec 06 swap people

[Lowl!f3]

I have a 06 vortec and tranny I want to swap into my 65.

Now I will be buying a painless harness for this. However there are a few things I need help with to make it happen.

1. Painless harness info says to use a mechanical throttle body. Mine is the electric one. Where can I find the right one that's mechanical? And from what engine?

2. Painless harness says that the injectors need to be Delphi Multec 2 (standard truck style) injectors. How do I know if mine will need those and if it was flex fuel or not?

Help me out here guys. If you have done swaps like this. Please post up anything you know and what I can do.

My engine is from a 2006 chevy and is a 5.3 Vortec. And it does have a throttle body that is controlled by electric throttle pedal not a cable. I want to run mechanical.
I will have to look further into some casting numbers to see exactly what LS it is and what transmission it is.

[PGSigns]

You need to look in the LS swap section as that is the best place to get info on this. For a harness you need to go here. http://www.bp-automotive.com/ You will be better off in the end.
Jimmy

[Clyde65]

as Jimmy said, you really need to look here..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...play.php?f=206

but you will need a pedal and BCM for this swap. I would also look at our vendor page http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...play.php?f=195

to find a forum supporting vendor that would help you with your purchase\needs for the harness.

[Lowl!f3]

I dont want to use electric pedal. thanks for the links

[PGSigns]

The throttle body is just not an either or kind of thing. With your 06 engine and trans you need a computer and harness setup for the drive by cable. You may also have to swap injectors and several of the other sensors to get a compatible system. There is nothing wrong with drive by wire. On these old trucks it does make some things easier. A cable operated pedal can be a bit of a pain with the shape of the firewall.
Jimmy

[Hart_Rod]

You might be able to swap to a drive by cable (depends on the year and the operating system of the computer), but it's not as simple as just swapping out the throttle body. Call Bill at BP. He will give you good info, whether you buy one of his harnesses or not.

[GMC-YA68]

Is this a complete engine with all the accessories? I don't understand why they are telling you to get this throttle body and that injector, etc. ???

[Lowl!f3]

Originally Posted by GMC-YA68

Is this a complete engine with all the accessories? I don't understand why they are telling you to get this throttle body and that injector, etc. ???

Complete engine and trans with brain, harness and all accessories even the exhaust to the flange. Everything is still on the engine and hooked up.
I broke the throttle body electric plug pulling the engine. But everything else is there and still plugged in.
I even have the driveshaft and trans xmember and power steering lines just if I can use some of this stuff to fab up with or what ever.

I'm looking for the way to do it and It work without having bugs.
I know I need a harness. Because there is no way I'm gonna sit and make one again. I did this 1 time before and never again will I do it. I would rather pay $600 for one.
However what I don't know is if I should go cable operated TB or fly by wire.
And will these stock truck manifolds work before I hang the engine over in there and discover it then and have to set it back down.
Fuel cell is what I may be going with. But what fuel pump will work for the engine without using a regulator or starving it or making air bubbles in fuel line?

[GMC-YA68]

Go with the fly by wire. Did you happen to get the throttle pedal and a module called the TAC? And a small harness between the 2? If your getting a harness then have them tune your ECM and it will be just fine with the electric pedal and the throttle body from that engine.

The truck manifolds won't work. People are using the trailblazer SS manifolds or the new camaro manifolds.

If you go with a fuel cell do an in-tank pump for sure.

[BR3W CITY]

Running the DBW setup allows for fine tuning of throttle positions and inputs, which allows for infinite mounting locations (non traditional if needed) and allows a good tuner to use those fine changes to make your truck drive like a late model.

If you already have the computer and everything, just verify that you have a TAC module and its harness. Then locate a matching throttle pedal and throttle body for the year and vehicle. In your case, it sounds like something like an 06 silverado would provide the right plastic-arm DBW pedal to interface with the 06 computer and TAC, and provide the correct TB. They are easy to find in junkyards!

The truck manifolds usually won't fit as stated by the others. Tbss/gen5 camaro/gto and a few others can work. If you have header budget, get a good set of longtubes for the swap. That way when you have it tuned to delete all the emissions etc, you can account for the changes and be tuned-and-running the first time around.

I used fuelinjectionconnection.com for my harness and always recommend them for the way they came through for me. That being said, we have vendors here that do harnesses which some members have used.

If you want, you don't have to use those Delphi truck injectors. That connector limits you in terms up uprated injectors if you ever planned to build bigger power in the future. You can get an EV1 or EV6 set of pigtails built into your harness, which allows you to run those style injectors. Way more common in various stock rates, and much cheaper for custom ones down the line if you ever needed to.

If your running a fuel cell, you can run either type of pump, it just depends how your cell in configured. A regular square cell with a hole in the top will do better with an in-tank pump modded to a stock-style pickup/sender. If your fuel cell is baffled and sumped, you can run an external. While the in-tank will be quieter and run cooler, the external setup is easier to service, and more reconfigurable for the future (again, if your looking to build it up ever).

Thats my $1 on the subject....I'm waay past giving .02c anymore.

[Lowl!f3]

Originally Posted by GMC-YA68

Go with the fly by wire. Did you happen to get the throttle pedal and a module called the TAC? And a small harness between the 2? If your getting a harness then have them tune your ECM and it will be just fine with the electric pedal and the throttle body from that engine.

The truck manifolds won't work. People are using the trailblazer SS manifolds or the new camaro manifolds.

If you go with a fuel cell do an in-tank pump for sure.

I have the pedal. But not the TAC your speaking of. But I'm sure I can get it.
Where is it located.?
I just talked to the guy I got the stuff from. He told me to come get it. So all I need to do is go find it.....

[Lowl!f3]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Running the DBW setup allows for fine tuning of throttle positions and inputs, which allows for infinite mounting locations (non traditional if needed) and allows a good tuner to use those fine changes to make your truck drive like a late model.

If you already have the computer and everything, just verify that you have a TAC module and its harness. Then locate a matching throttle pedal and throttle body for the year and vehicle. In your case, it sounds like something like an 06 silverado would provide the right plastic-arm DBW pedal to interface with the 06 computer and TAC, and provide the correct TB. They are easy to find in junkyards!

The truck manifolds usually won't fit as stated by the others. Tbss/gen5 camaro/gto and a few others can work. If you have header budget, get a good set of longtubes for the swap. That way when you have it tuned to delete all the emissions etc, you can account for the changes and be tuned-and-running the first time around.

I used fuelinjectionconnect for my harness and always recommend them for the way they came through for me. That being said, we have vendors here that do harnesses which some members have used.

If you want, you don't have to use those Delphi truck injectors. That connector limits you in terms up uprated injectors if you ever planned to build bigger power in the future. You can get an EV1 or EV6 set of pigtails built into your harness, which allows you to run those style injectors. Way more common in various stock rates, and much cheaper for custom ones down the line if you ever needed to.

If your running a fuel cell, you can run either type of pump, it just depends how your cell in configured. A regular square cell with a hole in the top will do better with an in-tank pump modded to a stock-style pickup/sender. If your fuel cell is baffled and sumped, you can run an external. While the in-tank will be quieter and run cooler, the external setup is easier to service, and more reconfigurable for the future (again, if your looking to build it up ever).

Thats my $1 on the subject....I'm waay past giving .02c anymore.

I broke the TB. So I will be needing one. And I called the guy and he said I can get the TAC and pigtail tomorrow. Just need to look it up so I know what I'm after. I have the pedal and bracket for it.
I want to be as stock as possible. Whats the Benifit of delete emissions? Doesn't the engine need the O2 sensors? Or am I not understanding what you mean about that? If I have to I can get headers. But I would like to be stock and use manifolds if I can find them and not pay as much as headers would be.

Can you explain ev1 & ev6.
And the pigtails? Are you meaning pigtails for later or to fit the stock one? I'm lost about the injector situation.

[Lowl!f3]

Well I went and looked at the TAC online. And I have this module. So all I need is the short harness from the pedal that went to it. It's on the old donor truck because I got the pedal today lol. Tomorrow I will have this harness.

Now about these injectors. Will the stocks that's in the engine work for fly by wire?
I want the engine to run as if it was in the 2006. So what tuning do I need???
I know secure lock needs disable for certain. And the rear gear ratio is 373 and will be running 15" tires.

Not ready to pull the trigger on a harness until I know for certain it is going to work.

[68c10airstream]

The emissions delete you ask about involves removing the rear o2 sensors from the software as in the original application they look at catalytic converter activity/efficiency and as an aside the downstream (rear) o2 sensors do a slight fuel trim input. You need the upstream o2 sensors for fuel trim adjustability, one on the lh side one on the rh side. Good luck, Brian F.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Lowl!f3

I want to be as stock as possible. Whats the Benifit of delete emissions? Doesn't the engine need the O2 sensors? Or am I not understanding what you mean about that? If I have to I can get headers. But I would like to be stock and use manifolds if I can find them and not pay as much as headers would be.

Can you explain ev1 & ev6.
And the pigtails? Are you meaning pigtails for later or to fit the stock one? I'm lost about the injector situation.

So keep in mind that the way I phrase most of my advice, is from the perspective of performance builds. Certain choices in the build (like headers, injector swaps) are designed to provide an effective solution, that is also functionally upgradeable in the future. There is more than one way more of this stuff can work out.

First, to even get this engine to run, you will have to have a Tuner make changes to the ECM function. Since you pay for the tune (not how many changes are made in each tune), the idea is to kill as many birds with one stone as possible.

Most hot rod swaps do not use rear 02's, EVAP, EGR, and a few other functions related to emissions...so the tuner will "Turn off" the codes and failures associated with those systems (i.e. no check engine lite and no stored codes). There is also some "Free" HP to be gained by the tuner properly setting up the fuel and spark tables (and setting the truck for 91/93 octane). If you really want, you can have them NOT do that, and just run the truck on regular gas like you would a regular work truck.

As for headers; you don't NEED headers, but you will NEED to change the manifolds you have currently. Since thats the case, its not a bad idea to get a good long tube header from the start, since there is HP to be gained, and any future mods benefit further from having headers. IF you truly intend to keep the truck stock (no cam changes, no heads, nothing more than a good intake filter and exhaust system), then a factory manifold like the TBSS would fit your goal.

Since you wanna be stock, my injector comment is less relevant, but if your curious what I meant; The stock truck injectors on GenIII engines are a short fat injector, designed by Delphi which uses a plug called a MultecII. This design was only used on LS trucks, 8.1L trucks, 8.1L Mercury Marine engines, and a few other 7.6 and 8.1L industrial motors.

For those doing performance builds, there isn't a wide array of options for increased flow in this design...either the Marine 8.1's, or a custom flowed set. When you start needing more fuel, or needing to change to huge-flow injectors for alternate fuel types like E85 this can be a pain.

There is a much more common style of injector plug called the "EV", both the EV1 and EV6. The 'vettes and fbodies used injectors that fit this plug, as did hundreds of other vehicles across multiple makes. You can have a harness setup to run these style plugs, opening up options.

[GMC-YA68]

BREW - That's more than a $1 worth on that last post!

[BR3W CITY]

ooops here .20c more; the EV1 and EV6 are still different from each other, but either can be wired in in place of the MultecII.

The EV1 injectors and plugs are technically an "older" design. They have usually 1 or 4 holes in them, which limits the injector spray pattern slightly. This effects how accurrate the injectors can be at low PWM or duty cycle (i.e. if you have waay to much injector, it will be very hard to tune it "down").

Ev6 injectors have 6 pintles, which has an improved spray pattern, being slightly larger and more even. They do have a slightly different body from the EV1 injectors.

Some folks swear the EV1 injectors have a habit of being directional, and putting more fuel to one side of the chamber. You can source the EV1's off a lot of the late 90's-early 2k F*rds. These are the "blue top" or "green top" or "SVO" or "SVT" injectors, depending on what those numbskulls decide to call their uprated injectors. F*rds run a lower rail pressure than our engines, so ALL F*RD INJECTOR RATINGS ARE 5-10% LOWER THAN YOU WILL SEE ON AN LS MOTOR.

[Lowl!f3]

Hrre is a pic of the injector.