Firewall Electrical Connector

[taclem]

Anyone have any info on where I can get firewall electrical connectors, mine has been hot and is tracking so I am losing power. It goes to the front lighting, horn, alternator, etc. and is on the left side of the firewall. I would like to replace both pieces. Thanks, Taclem

[BR3W CITY]

I just noticed the inner-half of mine has chafed wires and its junk (my truck had a small fusebox fire before I owned it...and this lookslike it didn't help).

I could use one too.

[Captainfab]

I don't know where to get just that connector but I have considered upgrading mine to a weatherpack bulkhead connector.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231043368350...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[BR3W CITY]

Interesting idea cap. We have a pac of trailer wiring harnesses around here. If i can condense mine down to a 7-pin trailer harness, I might have a solution built in.

I wouldn't be against replacing the old connector tho if it exits for a reasonable price. I need to custom pin mine anyway for my non-standard cab wiring.

[The Rocknrod]

Is this it?:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391131380023...3AMEBIDX%3AIT#

[bj383ss]

America Autowire sells all the factory firewall connections. But you will need the proper crimping tool to use them


http://www.americanautowire.com/shop...02&p=2&q=Truck

Link to the crimpers I am using to install an American Autowire harness in my truck.

Crimper, Ratcheted, AWG 20-18, 16-14, 12-10,...

[BR3W CITY]

If your existing crimp tool has the "barrel" holes, then you don't need the special one. The ratcheting ones save your wrist muscles when doing a whole plug tho!

Some of the cheap-o's will have the spot for it, but not usually a full size run. (towards the top, says non-insulated)

[61K10]

If the plastic is not too bad you can take them apart and pull the wires out of both pieces. take a drimel with a wire wheel on it and clean/polish the connecters as they are probably corroded. might be a temp fix. american auto wire has them in their kit, don't know if they sell any pieces.

[siggyfreud]

The connector captainfab listed is what I bought and will be using. Will likely use 2-3 in total with one being engine and the other being chassis.

[McStuffin]

When working with a Weatherpak, Deutsch or Cannon connector, it's best to use a product specific tool or generic ratcheting tool for your crimps as it provides a consistent tension from connector to wire. Most electrical system failures are from a non-existent ground, short to ground or a bad connection.

When using more than one similar connection in close proximity, a common trick is to reverse the pin/socket between similar connections... that way if you do disconnect them, each set goes together differently to prevent letting the smoke out of the wires...

[taclem]

Rocknrod, that looks pretty close to what I need, so ordered it, Thanks to all.

[franken]

If the connector is bad, chances are the underhood harnesses are in sad shape. My experience was that after spending a lot of time troubleshooting and fixing hacked wiring, in a year it needed more fixing.
A new harness from AAW or Painless is the less expensive option. If the under dash harness (expensive) isn't hacked, you can get new factory style engine bay harnesses. These can have upgrades like HEI and newer style alternators depending on what you order. The taillight harness is pretty cheap.

[taclem]

BJ383SS what are your thoughts on the Amazon Crimper you used, does it work as good as the one AAW shows on their site?

Rocknrod, thanks Chief that was the correct plug and kit thanks.

[bj383ss]

Taclem I answered your private message. Sorry about the late reply. Been trying to get my house ready to sell and been crazy busy.