Need advice..from all 64-66 owners running a bag set up.

[Ghernandez66]

So heres the issue Im having I just recently got my C-notch done and realized I have to move my air tanks and compressors since they are under the frame ..
but once I do that I would like to go lower but my next issue will be my driveline since its a 1 piece and its about 1/8 of an inch from hitting the crossmember that supports the trailing arms....
So I would like to get some help from you guys on how to tackle these 2 issues once I take the bed out since i think it would be a lot easier with no bed in the way ..
I seen aftermarket crossmembers for sale for about $200 but since its under the rear part of the cab seems like it will be hard to remove the old one is there anything I can to to the one in there now to gain couple more inches with out removing it?
also on relocating the tanks I would like to keep em under the bed and maybe clean up all my air lines (re route)
Here is a picture of this set up..

[SCOTI]

You can trim the front truck-arm crossmember to gain some clearance but it will be minimal. Aftermarket crossmembers will offer more clearance but you'll have to remove the original one & the rivets can be a pain w/o a good air chisel. They can be removed even w/the cab being above it (the cab just makes it more difficult).

The pic above shows a step notch but you mentioned a c-notch.... Is that your truck in the pic?

[Ghernandez66]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You can trim the front truck-arm crossmember to gain some clearance but it will be minimal. Aftermarket crossmembers will offer more clearance but you'll have to remove the original one & the rivets can be a pain w/o a good air chisel. They can be removed even w/the cab being above it (the cab just makes it more difficult).

The pic above shows a step notch but you mentioned a c-notch.... Is that your truck in the pic?

Yes that's my truck and about the crossmember can I cut and weld something to re in force? I really would like to keep it and not have to fight it out..

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ghernandez66

Yes that's my truck and about the crossmember can I cut and weld something to re in force? I really would like to keep it and not have to fight it out..

You could cut it & weld something in but I would imagine getting in there to properly weld something could be as much of a challenge as removing the crossmember to replace it.

[PGSigns]

Is it the picture or is the frame really crocked? One thing you may want to do is set the truck at rude height and check the pinion angle. You may find it nose up a good bit. getting it down to where it needs to be may give you the little bit of room you need on the drive shaft. Adding a CV joint to the front of the drive shaft will help with the steep angles you end up with on trucks this low and that will also aid in the cross member issue.
Jimmy

[Ghernandez66]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Is it the picture or is the frame really crocked? One thing you may want to do is set the truck at rude height and check the pinion angle. You may find it nose up a good bit. getting it down to where it needs to be may give you the little bit of room you need on the drive shaft. Adding a CV joint to the front of the drive shaft will help with the steep angles you end up with on trucks this low and that will also aid in the cross member issue.
Jimmy

Yeah that's one of the things I would love to check if my frame is crooked but not sure how to do this ...
The notch sems that way because the shop who installed it said he order the one for the truck and that's what he got but don't seem right does it? To me it looks like an universal fit notch and no the one for this frame with the offset in it..
Thanks for your feed back on the pinion angle do you have an idea what this angle should be?
To move the angle all I have to do is lossen the trailing arm c bolts that hold the rear end in place correct?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ghernandez66

Yeah that's one of the things I would love to check if my frame is crooked but not sure how to do this ...
The notch sems that way because the shop who installed it said he order the one for the truck and that's what he got but don't seem right does it? To me it looks like an universal fit notch and no the one for this frame with the offset in it..
Thanks for your feed back on the pinion angle do you have an idea what this angle should be?
To move the angle all I have to do is lossen the trailing arm c bolts that hold the rear end in place correct?

Is your plan to have the same shop that ordered the "universal" step-notch modify the T/A x-member if you go that direction?

How about some additional pics of the step-notch install (side view, close up where it meets the original frame rails, side shot of the inner frame rail, etc....)?

[Ghernandez66]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Is your plan to have the same shop that ordered the "universal" step-notch modify the T/A x-member if you go that direction?

How about some additional pics of the step-notch install (side view, close up where it meets the original frame rails, side shot of the inner frame rail, etc....)?

No I will have some one else do it all he's gonna do is hopefully try to fix the notch he agreed to get a new one and re installing it..
Here are few pictures I just took.

[SCOTI]

The 'generic' straight notches work if welded in correctly..... they just don't look as nice on 63-72's.

[PGSigns]

Here is a good link on getting the drive line angles measured. http://spicerparts.com/anglemaster/measuring-angles You can ad shims to the lowering blocks or machine the tops of the blocks to get the pinion where it needs to be. I would switch to the long track bar to reduce the side movement when the rear goes through its full range of travel. To check your frame put the truck in the garage and put it up on jack stands with the stands under the A arm cross shafts in the front and the frame right before it kicks up in the rear. Put a 4 foot level across the bottom of the front frame rails and see how close you are to level in the front, across the frame rails just in front of the trailing arm cross member, across the top of the notch and at the rear of the frame rails frame rails. All the checks should close the the same.
Jimmy

[Ghernandez66]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Here is a good link on getting the drive line angles measured. http://spicerparts.com/anglemaster/measuring-angles You can ad shims to the lowering blocks or machine the tops of the blocks to get the pinion where it needs to be. I would switch to the long track bar to reduce the side movement when the rear goes through its full range of travel. To check your frame put the truck in the garage and put it up on jack stands with the stands under the A arm cross shafts in the front and the frame right before it kicks up in the rear. Put a 4 foot level across the bottom of the front frame rails and see how close you are to level in the front, across the frame rails just in front of the trailing arm cross member, across the top of the notch and at the rear of the frame rails frame rails. All the checks should close the the same.
Jimmy

Thanks for this info I will try this as soon as I get a free weekend .
Thanks again