Trying to achieve a comfortable ride

[AcampoDave]

This truck has a 2 inch drop front spring along with a 2.5 inch drop spindle. The rear is a 5 inch drop spring along with a half inch block. It also has drop shocks and relocators along with adjustable panhard bar. It rides moderately well but could use a c notch because at times the rear end slams the frame. It is my buddies truck and he likes it. But compared to mine I'd say the rear end is pretty rough. Your truck looks close to his I'd say.

[Erratic67]

I seems to be the same as yours in height, but unfortunately my springs were cut. Do you have stock springs up front?

[Erratic67]

Seems to be the same height as mine, do you still have stock front springs?

[Erratic67]

Think your correct Dave, think I'm gonna go with a 3/5 and hope that does what I'm trying to achieve. Thanks for all y'all's help. Any other info which you feel would help would be very much appreciated. Any suggestions where to get quality parts at a reasonable price?

[AcampoDave]

I think a 4 inch rear drop gives ia smoother ride and I used Early Classic Enterprises. They don't just sell stuff. They do trucks !

[Erratic67]

Do you have stock front springs

[Erratic67]

Dave you've been a huge help

[AcampoDave]

The truck in the pic has a 2 inch front drop spring AND a 2.5 inch drop spindle. (My truck has a 2 inch drop spring and a stock spindle) glad to help.

[luvbowties]

Just for information.......First, I do not know the validity* of the following, but I have heard it for years: Any time you cut a (stock) spring, you make the ride rougher.* Obviously, it makes it shorter. I do know when adding spacers between 2 coils to heighten a coil spring which has sagged, the car rides rougher--this process essentially removes one coil from the spring.

*I also know that of the very few I have experienced, the vehicle DID ride rougher AFTER the cut. And looking from the other way, when we used to put station wagon leaf springs in the rear of 55-57 Chevies, they would ride smoother, esp. noticeable when going over a bump. The wagons had either 1 or 2 extra leafs & would raise the rear of the cars a measureable amount. I'm assuming that cutting a coil(s) is comparable to removing a leaf(s) and vice versa. Of course, one needs to account for compression and extension rates of a particular spring.

HTH & good luck with your decisions.
sam

[Chevy Fleetside]

I feel like I wasted my time on this thread.

[wilbur46]

Read more of the FAQs on suspension. I figured out what I needed there.
(1) You can't cut original rear springs. Yours appear to be dropped springs.
Try relocating the rear shock mount (check FAQs) and I used f150 front shocks from Kragen. Rides fine. Take the blocks out! Worst way to lower these trucks.
(2) Original front springs can be cut but more than 1 coil is not going to ride well. Yours look to be cut too much. Find a set of used stock fronts and cut 1 coil. Check the ride with the stock shocks.
If you make (real easy) new top rear shock mounts, you can use the original rears for new fronts. that moves the top up and out which helps with the ride. Stockers form Kragens are cheap and ride well.
I base all this on my el-cheapo experience with my 65LB.
I'm old and broke and will never drive fast enough for disc brakes.
I did use an $80 rebuilt booster/dual cylinder combo tho. Home made $5 booster bracket.
Regards, W

[Erratic67]

Chevy Fleetside ...

I am sorry you feel that way, I have taken everyones information into consideration and used what best fits my situation. I feel that I have gained a tremendous amount of knowledge based on this discussion and look for further help in the future, as I progress with my 66.
Thanks again to everyone who has taken the time to help, will post before/after pics once I make adjustments to my suspension. Hopefully in time to come, I will gain experience/knowledge to give advice, as you'all have done for me.

[theastronaut]

The shocks are at pretty extreme angles, so they're not really working effectively even if they're good shocks. Adding good shocks won't help much until you relocate the mounts so they're as close as possible to straight up.

[forestb]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

The shocks are at pretty extreme angles, so they're not really working effectively even if they're good shocks. Adding good shocks won't help much until you relocate the mounts so they're as close as possible to straight up.

I was told that it is good to not have your shocks at too grate of an angle but the closer you get to straight up and down the stiffer the shock will be.

[Cape Codder]

Shocks work by compression , at a steep angle they don't compress much

[DaddyOh]

Springs are typically engineered with a Primary and Secondary winding rate... either by their diameter or winding pattern. When you start cutting at a spring, you will distort their inherent rates. Cutting of springs is a 'low buck' approach to get a certain look BUT you will sacrifice in other areas... you cannot have your cake and eat it too... Unless a spring is wound with a constant rate, most will have a variable rate, changing variables (cutting) will change ride quality and suspension performance.

Shocks only work to dampen a suspension through it's cycle. Extreme angles will affect quality of it's performance. Their 'optimal' placement is more than a given angle... motion ratio, effective cycle range all come into account. All components will degrade in performance if not properly placed... some may notice the difference while others may not know the difference.

Good luck

[Erratic67]

back again .... I have decided to go with a 4/5 drop, new springs, shocks with relocation kit and disc brake conversion, all which was purchased thru ECE.

i am currently changing inner/outer tie rod ends and control arm ball joints but have run into a problem. I cannot for the life of me get the lower control arm bushing out. I have soaked in blaster, hit it harder and more frequent than i thought was possible, used curse words that i have heard for the first time and it will not budge. I have a press but with the collars provided it's not big enough to put in place or even begin to get the threaded screw in place, probably doing it incorrectly. Thought it may have a snap ring preventing it from coming out but inspected it closely and can't seem to find one. One was not provided with the new one so i'm assuming it doesn't have one. Does anyone have any suggestions on how i can get this darn thing out, not only am i on my last nerve but it is holding up progress. I have spent countless hours on this head ache.

[Cape Codder]

light the bushing on fire and leave it outside to burn. Pounding on anything set in rubber is a waste of time.

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

light the bushing on fire and leave it outside to burn. Pounding on anything set in rubber is a waste of time.

effective and fun too!

[frankslagoon]

There not jeep springs there shorter. they are probably 5 in drops as stated before. big issue is shock angle. I put the jeep springs on and dropped 4 in. it's is a bit soft but I think the biggest problem is the shock angle my shocks are swinging in an arch more then they actually work in and out. your shocks probably don't collapse more then an in or 2 so it's like not havin shocks. you can't really cut the back springs cause they pigtail at both ends. I did cut one coil off the frt springs. it dropped me 2 in. and the frt is pretty stiff.

[frankslagoon]

you do know those lower control arms ends are kinda threaded on.

[Erratic67]

I am referring to the lower ball joint that connects the spindle to the control arm. I have removed the rubber from around the ball joint, it is metal on metal. I also used heat in attempt's of expanding/contracting but had no luck with that either. I refuse to let it beat me but that thing is surely winning this battle, by far. I guess my next option will be to swallow my pride, remove the entire control arm and bring it to a professional.

Someone mentioned that it is somewhat threaded in there, but the new one has no threads on it, please elaborate.

Totally frustrated

[Cape Codder]

To remove the ball joint from the control arm you should have a ball joint press. I thought you were trying to remove the pivot shaft at first.

[frankslagoon]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

To remove the ball joint from the control arm you should have a ball joint press. I thought you were trying to remove the pivot shaft at first.

when I mentioned threads I thought you were talkin about the pivot shaft or lower control arm bushing also. it's hard to get the balljoints out with the control arm still on the trk. but not impossible. but you need a ball joint press. it's a kit that you clamp on above and below the ball joint. I think you can rent em. maybe at o'rellys does that sound right guys.

[Erratic67]

I was able rent a press and remove the ball joint which was a very easy process. Thanks to all for the helpful advice.

Another question I have before I put it all back together. I have changed all ball joints but have not changed the control arm pivot joints?

I also changed my drums to disc and the single master cylinder to a dual but haven't installed a booster, is it necessary or will I be fine without?
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