Radiator needed for 5.3L

[Aruba1]

So last weekend my 5.3L threw out the driving belt and I had to pull over when the temp reached 230 degrees. By the time I got someone to pick me up and got a replacement belt, the motor had already cooled down. I added anti-freeze, installed the belt and made it home safe (about 10 miles away). This morning I noticed the old copper radiator had multiple leaks from the side tanks. Instead of fixing it I want to install a decent radiator.

I can go with a stock replacement but I prefer a full aluminum radiator with no epoxy. What is the recommendation on aluminum radiator. Can I get something decent for $200? Is the Champion or Be Good radiator any good? I need to order something soon so please help me out.

P.s. Apparently throwing belts on these type of motors are very common. Please look at the belts and if it seem like a little worn of any crack, replacement it ASAP. Mine had a lot of cracks and was tin. Some recommend a manual tensioner as the spring in the stock tensioner gets weak. If it throws the new belt, I will update this thread and also switch over to the manual tensioner.

Thanks

[THEE OG]

Honestly I have used just about everything in my drag cars. And no matter if it's a fluidyne or a Jegs one. They have been very equal in a lot of ways. I don't think you can go wrong with a Jegs one for around that money.

[GMC-YA68]

I doubt you are going to find anything for $200 that isn't epoxied.

[Andy4639]

I bought my full Aluminium radiator no epoxy off e bay for $159.00.

[truckdude239]

I'm running a Griffin radiator

[fast&low]

Call Sparky at R&D he is a member & let him know you are a member also
I have one & love it

[jessemthompson]

R&D is a great radiator, but well out of the $200 price range. I think anything in that price range is going to be epoxy welded.

[fast&low]

[Andy4639]

Pictures of my $159.00 three row!


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=7306461

[Aruba1]

Andy, the link that you posted goes to a $900 plus radiator :-)

[Aruba1]

Thank you all for your input. Although I was able to find some 2 row radiators on ebay for between $150-200, the radiator tubes where anywhere from 1/2 to 3/4" and some where very questionable. For instance, the champion AE369 radiator was advertised as 1" tubes but the total core thickness was 1.75". With the space between the 2 tubes it should have had at least a core thickness of 2.25" Then there were a lot of debates on 3 or 4 core radiator that actually had small tubes and the cores could potentially decrease the air flow and affect the cooling efficiency.

So... I decided to spend a little more money to get a better product. I went to Summit Racing's radiator that has 2 rows of 1-1/4 tubes with a total thickness of 3". I chose the LS version that has the inlet and outlet on the passenger side as it's suppose to increase efficiency. Whether that is true or not I don't know for sure. Cost plus shipping is about $280.




•Core Height (in)
18.620 in.
•Core Thickness (in)
2.680 in.
•Core Width (in)
28.000 in.
•Fan Included
No
•Inlet Location
Upper passenger side
•Inlet Size
1 1/4 in.
•Notes
Fits models with GM LS series engine swap. Modification will be required when mounting the OEM fan shroud.
•Outlet Location
Lower passenger side
•Outlet Size
1 5/8 in.
•Overall Height (in)
18.620 in.
•Overall Thickness (in)
3.000 in.
•Overall Width (in)
33.250 in.
•Quantity
Sold individually.
•Radiator Cap Included
No
•Radiator Finish
Natural
•Radiator Material
Aluminum
•Radiator Style
Crossflow
•Row Quantity
2
•Transmission Cooler
No
•Tube Size
1 1/4 in.

[Aruba1]

And it's a Griffin Dominator Series Radiator 8-00013-LS.

[LS short box]

I've used the Griffin HP universal radiators with great success. Maybe too late but get the biggest that will fit. Make some upper and lower mounts.

[Aruba1]

What I like the most of Summit Racing is their lightning fast delivery. I placed my order yesterday morning around 10:30 (Thursday) and it was shipped almost immediately. I checked the tracking number this morning at 8:15 and it's out for delivery.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I just used the stock style radiator that was in my truck, cools the 5.3L just fine. Never heard of these engine throwing belts, I suppose that would happen with any old belt.

[Aruba1]

As I mentioned in my first post, I only replacing the copper radiator after the leaks developed. The thrown serpentine belt is a well-known issue in the LS1 community. I am just trying to give ya'll a heads-up on this issue as I wasn't aware of it either until it happened to me.

https://www.google.com/#q=LS1+issue+throw+driving+belt

[MalibuSSwagon]

Well from what I read on those posts, seems belt throwing will happen if the tensioner is worn out. I re-used the belt on my 5.3L swap, and have been seeing black dust on the engine around the belt drive. Also hearing squeaking sometimes when the engine is cold. Guess it's time for a new belt and tensioner.

[Aruba1]

Eric, funny that you mentioned the black dust, I noticed the same thing but on my alternator. The tensioner has some markings on it and I believe these are wear limits when the belt has to be replaced. I will post some pics later today of the markings with the old belt and with the new belt because otherwise I will confuse everyone :-). But probably your belt is just a little thin and needs replacing. If I have to replace the tensioner I will go with the manual tensioner. There are some on ebay for less than $50.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Aruba1

Andy, the link that you posted goes to a $900 plus radiator :-)

Yea I saw that also. I don't know what is going on with that. Mine has been fine. The truck runs at 180* all the time pretty much. + there is no leaks at all anymore.
I'm very pleased with it.

[SparkyRnD]

We make bolt-in conversion radiators and we also offer a forum member discount:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=590670


We can build it for any engine set-up including the LS (no additional charge) and include a free steam port and built-in trans cooler if needed.

With regards to the $200 price cap, yes, we will be above that by about double. The cheaper priced radiators pretty much always use epoxy for where the core meets the ends as an inexpensive way to mate the two together. While there are many people that go this route, they almost always fail at some point, and put epoxy residue in your entire cooling system as it breaks down. We make ours by hand here in the USA with domestically sourced materials, and never use any epoxy, plastic or glue. To do that though means our prices are going to be well above the imported chinese units that don't have the same quality. If there is anything we can help you with, please let me know.

[Pillow]

I run the stock HD radiator w/o problem. (mechanical fan)

The LS cooling is quite easy on these big radiator trucks. Unless you are going for a high HP engine (heat) or heavy towing, IDK why you need to spend a lot on a radiator.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Yes I used the radiator in the truck, I believe it's a Spectra CU840. It's the light duty radiator, I think 2 core maybe? The LS engines are quite a bit more efficient than the old SBC's, with normal driving temp stays at 190 to 195. If I'm idling for more than 5 to 10 mins then the temp comes up to around 200, fans kick on a few degrees after that. I towed 5500 pounds this weekend on 30 miles of twisty back roads, up hills and whatnot, never saw over 195. And thats with electric fans, no mechanical fan. I can't see a reason for a bigger radiator.

[foamypirate]

I'm with you...no need for a fancy all aluminum radiator here.

A Spectra Premium radiator spec'd for an 81-87' Squarebody truck with a 454 (PN CU730) is only $120 or so from RockAuto and will provide all the cooling an LS needs and is a direct fit into the squarebody trucks with a 454 top mounting plate.

[Aruba1]

Originally Posted by Pillow

I run the stock HD radiator w/o problem. (mechanical fan)

The LS cooling is quite easy on these big radiator trucks. Unless you are going for a high HP engine (heat) or heavy towing, IDK why you need to spend a lot on a radiator.

I wanted a bigger radiator for heavy towing. I hope to install a chrome shroud I bought off ebay and post some pics this weekend (weather permitting).

[MalibuSSwagon]

Ok so I will admit something now. The belt squeaking I was hearing reminded me of the time my Honda threw it's timing belts due to a loose pulley. So I checked and sure enough, the idler and tensioner pulley bolts were both loose. Whoops. So tightened those up and no more squeaking or slowly shredding belt. I do however have a new Gates belt and tensioner sitting on my kitchen table waiting to be installed. So maybe check your pulleys too and tighten to spec.