Cab Dilemma

[Crazy Rusty]

I think I already know the answer but wanted to get some opinions...

I have a 65 C10 that I'm working on that's pretty rusted out. Rockers, cab corners, most of the floor pan forward of the seat area up to the crease of the firewall on both sides, some of the high hump, a few cab supports, and the kick panels of course. Nothing I haven't fixed before but obviously a lot of time/money going to be invested in welding that all back to a proper state.

I just traded an old race engine I had for a parts truck that's in MUCH better condition than mine. I live in NW Washington and it came from SE Washington, more like desert country. Rockers are solid, floors are solid, a few minor floor pin holes... pretty great... But it has no vin and it was an auto, so no hump hole at all and I'd want to keep my four speed.

So... do I keep my rusty cab and fix it up or work on getting this cab licensed and put a high hump in it (which seems like it might be hard considering mine is fairly rusty to use as a template). Thoughts?

[chevy_mike]

Time and money will always be ahead when you can use the best body you have available. Rust is like an iceberg, it is always worse the more you get into it. I will take a rust free (or mostly rust free) cab any day of the week to start with but I am spoiled being in SoCal. I am amazed as what folks have done with cars I would have scraped.

Good luck.

[cru_zn_29]

PM sent

[Crazy Rusty]

Thanks for the info. That's what I figured. Just bought a new high hump off of ebay so at least I'll have that to measure the new one against. I got a 327 w/auto in the swap as well (I think original) while mine has the 292 w/4 speed. I suppose I could also just put the auto on the 292 and the 4 speed on the 327.

[Captainfab]

I would suggest getting the titling issue taken care of before doing any work on that 'new' cab.

[mjh1965]

It's really strange that in the UK it's the chassis that carries the details for our V5 log book . I had the same dilemma , when I stripped my truck the cab was pretty far gone . I was really lucky, I found a guy breaking a truck in the Uk , that had come in from California with practically no rust .so I guess it's easier just to swop the cab .

[60chevyjim]

Originally Posted by Crazy Rusty

I think I already know the answer but wanted to get some opinions...

I have a 65 C10 that I'm working on that's pretty rusted out. Rockers, cab corners, most of the floor pan forward of the seat area up to the crease of the firewall on both sides, some of the high hump, a few cab supports, and the kick panels of course. Nothing I haven't fixed before but obviously a lot of time/money going to be invested in welding that all back to a proper state.

I just traded an old race engine I had for a parts truck that's in MUCH better condition than mine. I live in NW Washington and it came from SE Washington, more like desert country. Rockers are solid, floors are solid, a few minor floor pin holes... pretty great... But it has no vin and it was an auto, so no hump hole at all and I'd want to keep my four speed.

So... do I keep my rusty cab and fix it up or work on getting this cab licensed and put a high hump in it (which seems like it might be hard considering mine is fairly rusty to use as a template). Thoughts?

is your vin spot welded or riveted on ?
they sell the star rivets on line around $45. for two .
spot welded ? mabe use some jb weld ?

[Crazy Rusty]

That's the direction I'm going. I'll still end up fixing the other one, but I'll take my time

[60chevyjim]

I would swap the cab and then put the large hump in the rust free cab .
or put the hump in while the cab is off the chassis , that would even be ezr .

[clemdaddy]

i don't think its a crime to replace a cab and use your existing vin plate. both trucks are yours and its like replacing a fender or door. what is important is that the vin plate matches the vin on the frame. go with the better cab, its easy to change the hump...