Need 9 inch installation information

[Bret B]

A number of years ago, I posted on here that I swapped my original 1965 rear for a 1971 Suburban rear. The '71 is much wider than expected, and subsequently when I lowered the truck, the bed would sit on the tires them selves. Fast forward to current day, I have a 9 inch rear end sitting around which is out of what appears to be a 1979 F100 and measures 61 inches WMS to WMS. That is a good thing compared with the nearly 64 inches with the '71 rear. If I move forward with this installation, I'm guessing that there is going to be an offset from center line with the pinion? Meaning the pinion will not be centered in the frame because the 9 inch has an offset of something like 2 inches. Is that correct? The 9's axles are equal length, or at least they measured out the same length, I could be wrong, and I'll double check that. The 9's axle tubes are 3.01 inches diameter, which is correct for the u-bolts. Will the drive shaft u-joints deal with the offset for a 9 inch and the pinion angle without vibrating itself to death? I'm sure there are better 9 inch options out there for housings, but I haven't truthfully looked for any since I thought I had a "good" candidate with the one I have. The offset has me a bit perplexed.

So, if anyone has information pertaining to how they measured, and installed the rear, or even pictures, I'd really appreciate it. The debate over 12 bolt vs 9 inch is not something I would like to get into, I'm investigating all my options still. There are benefits and draw backs to both options. Regardless of which way I go, I need better gearing, would like a traction device, and better braking. Which means, both are open and viable options since both will require nearly the same work.

Appreciate any assistance with this endeavor.

[northern]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bolt-I...cks,80935.html

These 9” housings will fit in any 60-72 trucks that use factory trailing arms. The difference on the some of the 60-66 vs. 67-72 is the panhard bar location. We have test fit these housings in 67-72 Trucks and had no issues. They have not been tested in any 60-66 years, but I do know that the panhard bar on the early trucks can be further over on the axle tube in some cases. All that would need to be done is to use a 67-72 panhard/track bar. (per speedway)
This is a centered pinion set up. The picture below was from google images

[PGSigns]

You will need to get the pinion back in the middle. There are a couple of ways to find out how far over the pinion needs to go to get it back in the middle. I use one of these. http://www.swracecars.com/store/PINI...44=95-019.aspx The other way is to put a straight edge on the axle flange and measure over to the center of the pinion nut. The speed way housing would make things much easier. The panhard bar problem is easily solved by using a long one that mounts to the trailing arm. Ford used so many ofsets that a tape measure is the only way to tell.
Jimmy

[Bret B]

Thanks guys.

When I started loking into the 9 inch option I came across the speedway motors diagram. It makes complete sense, but the 56 inch width has me skeptical. Original width of a '65 is 62 inches, so cutting down to 56, or narrower by 6 inches makes me wonder about wheel back spacing, inner bed rubbing, etc. My bed is off the frame, so I have no way to see about that kind of spacing.

if I understand what you both are saying, the pinion offset from centerline of the frame, will not be a good thing.

It appears moser has a "custom" 9 inch, but I haven't dived in to see about measurements, just saw it in a search on this board.

So far, it still feels like there is a piece of the puzzle missing. How are others putting the 9 inch in their trucks and accounting for the offset? There might be a housing with zero, or less offset, than the truck rearends I'm simply missing.

On edit: I'm not concerned with the track bar locator either. I've got the CPP trialing arm suspension that uses the frame to trailing arm track bar.

[PGSigns]

I have cut a bunch of housings over the years and always start with a housing that is to big and cut it to fit. When building them for the drag cars finding one to wide was easy. Always do all the welding on the housing before putting the ends on. I had a fixture for welding the ends on that centered and squared the ends.
Jimmy

[vin63]

I have a very old pinion center gauge from Mark Williams that I use for setting up Ford 9" housings in my chassis. I would recommend getting one from Chassisworks, Chassis Shop, Mittler Bros., etc. This will help simplify everything - don't guess. Once you establish the center line, everything else falls in line. I also can't stress enough about establishing the chassis square and drop plumb lines for square when taking on this endeavor.

I run a sheetmetal Ford 9" in my truck, but have also run them in all of my drag cars that I built. I always put my frame on a jig, but you can do it with several adjustable jack stands and a level floor.

My rearend housing after paint and coating...installed brakes and splined sway bar:

[Bret B]

That is sharp Vin63.

I'm certainly not set up to be doing the fabrication of narrowing/extending rear end housings. I am capable to handle the saddles to the tubes and setting the pinion angle. However, I don't think of my capabilities beyond that, and I haven't had the urge to try.

It is honestly looking more and more like a 12 bolt, or an aftermarket housing all set-up. I'm not inclined to plunk down 3 grand for an aftermarket....decisions decisions. Narrowing one side and extending the other could be done by a good fabricator locally though I'm sure.

[Captainfab]

I honestly don't understand the hate for the 12 bolt. It is not a bad differential.

That said, you should be able to easily find someone over there to narrow/lengthen your housing and center the pinion.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by Bret B

I am capable to handle the saddles to the tubes and setting the pinion angle. However, I don't think of my capabilities beyond that, and I haven't had the urge to try.

It is honestly looking more and more like a 12 bolt, or an aftermarket housing all set-up. I'm not inclined to plunk down 3 grand for an aftermarket....decisions decisions. Narrowing one side and extending the other could be done by a good fabricator locally though I'm sure.

That's kind of what I was getting at...you really can't weld on the saddles and set pinion angle until you establish the rearend housing centerline in the chassis. There is nothing wrong going with a 12-bolt GM rearend...your thread originally asked about installing a Ford 9". Just like anything, you can save a lot of money on either set up...just takes more time and hunting around. My rearend was done with a lot of left over parts and trades (for other parts and my fabrication labor). The biggest expense on my truck rearend above was $400 for a set of axles.

[Bret B]

Definitely no hate or dislike for the 12 bolt. Nothing I've ever had, or done would ever even test the strength, or weakness, of any rear end.

Thanks for the assistance guys. I know a 9 inch can be done, obviously, and who knows maybe one day. However, the more I look into this, and figure budget, skills, tools, etc, the more it becomes clear to stick with what I've got, or sell then find an original '65-'68 rear end, and rebuild to suit. Not throwing in the towel, but certainly moving toward a final decision.