Sub died in middle of the road this morning

[65chevysub]

Just had my carb rebuilt and new filter installed and was running fine for 3 days. Started out this morning and it died, so I pushed it while wife steered. Pulled the filter and pump is working fine. I have the Ignitor kit in distributor so no points/condensor. Cranks fine. Called the guy who worked on it and he towed it to his shop but thought I would see what members here think might be wrong. I'm leaning toward something stuck in carb that got through. I ran straight line to carb and still no start.
What do you all think it could be?
283, 4 bbl Carter. No problems until now except running rich and hesitation.
Thanks in advance

[vin63]

Did the old resistor get removed from the distributor wiring? I would also test for a low voltage condition from your ignition switch...just in case.

[Brad54]

An old guy once told me "90-percent of fuel problems are ignition."
I have yet to prove him wrong.

Check for spark.

-Brad

[65chevysub]

I still have a resistor on the firewall. I'm leaning more towards electrical/spark the more I think of it.
Thanks guys. I'll post the problem here when I get my truck back.

[TJ's Chevy]

HEI's require a full 12 volts to operate correctly....any less and that'll burn them up in no time. Sounds like it has no sparkie....course the easiest way to check is put your tongue in one of the wires while the wife cranks the engine. HAHA!

[65chevysub]

TJ. I don't have an HEI setup on mine, only a regular distributor with the "Ignitor" kit in it. Anyways the problem was simple and an easy fix. One of the wires on my ballast resistor fell off. If I'd had a flashlight, I could have fixed it myself.
Thank you to everyone who replied and offered suggestions.

[Palf70Step]

Glad it was an easy fix

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

TJ. I don't have an HEI setup on mine, only a regular distributor with the "Ignitor" kit in it. Anyways the problem was simple and an easy fix. One of the wires on my ballast resistor fell off. If I'd had a flashlight, I could have fixed it myself.
Thank you to everyone who replied and offered suggestions.

Glad it was a simple fix.

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

TJ. I don't have an HEI setup on mine, only a regular distributor with the "Ignitor" kit in it. Anyways the problem was simple and an easy fix. One of the wires on my ballast resistor fell off. If I'd had a flashlight, I could have fixed it myself.
Thank you to everyone who replied and offered suggestions.

That old man is STILL batting 1000!
Glad you were able to solve it.

-Brad

[65chevysub]

Thanks guys. That old man is my kind of mechanic. Knows whats wrong just by hearing about the problem. We have a guy here that owns Black Hills Auto Electric. He can tell you whats wrong with an electrical system by what you tell him.

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

Thanks guys. That old man is my kind of mechanic. Knows whats wrong just by hearing about the problem. We have a guy here that owns Black Hills Auto Electric. He can tell you whats wrong with an electrical system by what you tell him.

That tip from him has helped me quickly diagnose more problems than I can believe. It's solved problems on my '54 Buick, my Suburban, a '73 Duster, a Mopar I rode in on Power Tour, and my ex-wife's Corvair.

I've installed a clear fuel filter in front of the carb on all my stuff, and if it's full, I don't even look at fuel anymore for fuel issues!

-Brad

[65chevysub]

Ive got a clear plastic filter in front of my carb as well. Has anyone used one of those original style glass bowl type filters and if so how does it work?

[Brad54]

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

Ive got a clear plastic filter in front of my carb as well. Has anyone used one of those original style glass bowl type filters and if so how does it work?

I've got one on my '61 Suburban. Reproduction for a '57 Chevy unit, if I remember correctly.

Hard fuel line comes up from the fuel pump to above the intake manifold, and goes into the front of the glass bowl filter.

Exits the back of the glass bowl filter and goes into the carb. (an Edelbrock, in my case).

It is suspended by the hard lines. it won't work that way with rubber fuel lines.

Fuel comes into the top of the filter body and drops down into the bowl, the exit is basically a tube that drops down into the center of the filter cartridge. The fuel goes through the filter, into the tube and into the carb.

I like it because it's functional for helping diagnose issues, and it looks like a factory-installed piece, even if it's not actually "original" for our applications.

-Brad

[65chevysub]

I was thinking of the "originality" idea of it as well. I dont like the plastic one just "hanging" above my valve cover and ram horn. Any chance you can post a pic of your setup?
Thanks