need some help with disk brake conversion

[jamon8]

my truck is a 65 and I am using a 79 c15 with the 1 1/4 brakes so I can keep my wheels and use 6 lug rotors.

my question is about the idler arm. the setup on the 79 is way different than the 65 and I want to know how to mount it so I will have the proper steering alignment.

also is there a cheaper way to buy the rotors or am I stuck paying an arm and a leg for the conversion rotors.

i plan on using all the brackets from captain fab

[64shortbox]

When I did my 73 disc swap into my 64 I just made sure everything was square & level and drilled new holes in the frame where the 74 idler arm landed. I held it in place with a C clamp while I drilled the new mounting holes. My truck rides, steers, drives and aligned fine.

As far as the rotors go you might try these at $69.99 - yes they're still $30.00 more than the $39.98 stock 5 lug rotors from Auto Zone but still not bad. Here's the link: https://www.performanceonline.com/ch...ersion-rotors/

[64shortbox]

jamon8, when you got your disc brake set up did you also get the master cylinder, vacuum booster, brake lines & proportioning valve? the reason I ask, I was able to use ALL the brake lines and proportioning valve on my 64 C-10 with just VERY slight tweaking of the lines. I did have to make a bracket to mount the 73 proportioning valve. I think it looks factory but I'll let you be the judge. I also used the captianfab steering box bracket & master cylinder brackets - excellent pieces by the way. Also if you do buy the rotors from POL you might want to pick up their tool to hold the proportioning valve centered while bleeding the brakes. I added a pic of a cut away of the proportioning valve Here's the pics.

[64shortbox]

jamon8, If your truck is an automatic and really want to get carried away you can cut the steel Power Brake pedal pad off the donor truck and weld it on your 65 brake pedal arm. Later I even added a suspended gas pedal. Are these trucks ever done?

[jamon8]

64 shortbox thanks for the replies and I ordered those rotors. I really like what you have done to your truck. I took the old crossmember out yesterday and planning on putting the donor in today.

If you could get a pic of how your idler mounted up that would be cool. I might just be overthinking it but I want my truck to be right.

as far as the brakes go I dont have a master cyl, booster or a prop valve yet. I just got the truck into the garage and pulled the motor for some upgrades and decided to put the crossmember in.

I probably wont finish it all right now because I have to get another car in the garage but I want to get the steering box and all mounted.

[PGSigns]

Make a pattern off the donor truck for the hole pattern for the idler arm. A piece of poster board works good for this. Summit racing is also a good source for the rotors.
Jimmy

[JWalter 64]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

When I did my 73 disc swap into my 64 I just made sure everything was square & level and drilled new holes in the frame where the 74 idler arm landed. I held it in place with a C clamp while I drilled the new mounting holes. My truck rides, steers, drives and aligned fine.

As far as the rotors go you might try these at $69.99 - yes they're still $30.00 more than the $39.98 stock 5 lug rotors from Auto Zone but still not bad. Here's the link: https://www.performanceonline.com/ch...ersion-rotors/

64shortbox,
I have been wondering about this for a while, I am glad I ran across this post. Would it be easier to use a 73 -79 cross member and parts or would it be better to just buy the spindles that companies offer. The spindles that I have found are designed for my 64 a frames but are also made for 71-87 rotors. What would you suggest? Finding a donor truck or buying new? Also the pics are GREAT! Truck looks good!.
What did you do anout the rearend? How did you make it 5 lug
Thanks,

[Chevy Fleetside]

Summit Racing has the rotors for $130 with free shipping. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cp4r-6

[JWalter 64]

Chevy Fleetside,
Thank you for the info. Really nice.
I was wondering though, what all is involved in using a crossmember and A frames from an early to mid 70s c10, and is that better to do that than to buy spindles from Summit or CPP.
My neighbor has a mid 70s c10 with a good front end and a good rear axle. He bought the truck just for the motor and trans.
I know a kit can be bought for a rear end swap, the perches and trailing arm mount has to be welded on though. I didnt know if the heat from welding would do something to the rear end tubes. All I have is a mig welder not a tig.
Once again thank you for the info, I really appreciate it
Jwalter64

[Chevy Fleetside]

We need a smiley of a dead horse being beat. I know there is one because I have seen it. All the mid 70's front control arms will bolt up on 63 and up cross members. This difference is the later model cross members have a larger diameter u bolt.

[Fatherof3]

Chevy Fleetside;7556739]We need a smiley of a dead horse being beat.

[64shortbox]

jamon8,
Glad to help. I received a LOT of my information from this site and definitely happy when I can return what I've learned from here.
Can you wait until this weekend for a picture of my installed idler arm? I have my F 250 torn apart in the driveway behind my 64 C-10 and I need to get the Ford out of the way so I can get my Chevy out of the garage for pics.

[Captainfab]

Mount the steering box first using the template I supply. Then position the draglink so that it is parallel to both the bottom of the frame and the suspension crossmember. That is where the later model idler arm needs to be.

Originally Posted by jamon8

my truck is a 65 and I am using a 79 c15 with the 1 1/4 brakes so I can keep my wheels and use 6 lug rotors.

my question is about the idler arm. the setup on the 79 is way different than the 65 and I want to know how to mount it so I will have the proper steering alignment.

also is there a cheaper way to buy the rotors or am I stuck paying an arm and a leg for the conversion rotors.

i plan on using all the brackets from captain fab

[64shortbox]

JWalter 64,
As far as using the 73-79 cross member or keeping your original in place it's more of a judgment call on what suits your needs best. I swapped in an entire 73 cross member because I wanted to be able to drive my truck while rebuilding the 73 suspension and I liked the idea of the newer bushings of the 73. I bought new 6 lug rotors, CPP 2 1/2" drop spindles, new Moog front springs, new Raybestos Professional grade Ball Joints, Poly bushings, rebuilt calipers, new wheel bearings, washers, nuts & dust caps. I didn't replace the tie rod ends or center link because they were still good and easy to replace down the road if needed. Believe it or not I ended up with over $1,000.00 invested in the front suspension rebuild & disc brake conversion. I'm very lucky though because at my work we have a hot water pressure washer, a bead blast cabinet & a 10,000 ton press. I was able to clean, bead blast, paint and press in my bushings while working the off shift. So for me it was more beneficial to swap out the entire 73 front suspension.
When I was ready to install my suspension I also pulled the motor for a regasket & paint job & I rented a steam cleaner to clean the 50+ years of grease & grime off the firewall, frame rails & under carriage.
For the rear end I kept it 6 lug and bought the 6 lug rotors for the front. I wanted to keep my 6 lug rims I have.
Once I was done I had to sit down at the table and have a margarita. The skeleton is a nice prop for the truck at the car shows it sure gets the attention.
If you have any more questions please feel free to ask.

[JWalter 64]

64Shortbox,
Wow! Thank you for your reply! Yes, I will wait for this weekend. I would definately like to see some pics.
I have been toying with the idea of installing discs up front but didnt know the best way of going about it, but now after reading and seeing what you have done, I realize the swap might go alot smoother than I expected. Right now I have the original drums on all 4 and the original 3:73 rearend. I think I have decided to keep the six lug, but I will swap the rearend for a newer one with a 3:08 gear. Maybe out of a 69c10 or something like that.
Once again, thank you for the info and I cant wait to see the rest of the pics.
Jwalter64

[sixty4bigwindow]

Originally Posted by 64shortbox

jamon8, when you got your disc brake set up did you also get the master cylinder, vacuum booster, brake lines & proportioning valve? the reason I ask, I was able to use ALL the brake lines and proportioning valve on my 64 C-10 with just VERY slight tweaking of the lines. I did have to make a bracket to mount the 73 proportioning valve. I think it looks factory but I'll let you be the judge. I also used the captianfab steering box bracket & master cylinder brackets - excellent pieces by the way. Also if you do buy the rotors from POL you might want to pick up their tool to hold the proportioning valve centered while bleeding the brakes. I added a pic of a cut away of the proportioning valve Here's the pics.

So you can use the 70s trucks' MC and prop valve as well in the swap? Thats awesome. My question is, since i ordered the full front disc conversion from Summitt, can i still use an MC from a 73 to 87 pickup since it's the disc/drum combo?

Love your pickup btw! 64 was a good year

[jamon8]

my idler arm looks something like this and I was wondering if anyone could get a pic of what it looks like on our trucks.

[Captainfab]

If your truck is going to have discs in the front and drums in the rear, you can use most any disc/drum master cylinder. So yes you can use a '73-'87 master cylinder. That is what I typically recommend.

Originally Posted by sixty4bigwindow

So you can use the 70s trucks' MC and prop valve as well in the swap? Thats awesome. My question is, since i ordered the full front disc conversion from Summitt, can i still use an MC from a 73 to 87 pickup since it's the disc/drum combo?

Love your pickup btw! 64 was a good year

[64shortbox]

sixty4bigwindow,
I don't see why not. I purchased captianfab's master cylinder mount, used a 73 vacuum booster and 73 master cylinder. My calipers are stock rebuilt 73 C-10 calipers from Auto Zone. BUT on my vacuum booster rod I did have to thread the rod with a 3/8-24 thread die & used a coupling nut from Orchard Supply. If you like I can climb under the dash and take a pic if you like. I actually found that a vacuum booster from an early Chevy Astro Van would be a better fit. It's a dual diaphragm and only about 9" OD if I remember correctly. The formed hose for the vacuum hose to the vacuum booster came off a Dodge Dakota and the main vacuum tree came off a Ford Ranger. Don't be afraid to poke around your local junk yards to get ideas & parts. Oh, I used a new stock flex caliper flex hose for a 73 C-10. If you decide to go with the stock 73-87 brake lines there's an oblong hole already in your frame for the hard line to flex hose. I hope my pictures make it clear though in the second picture I have a cut flex hose backwards going through the frame. That was just a test fit to see if that existing hole would work which it does. As I stated earlier though I did have to make a bracket to mount the proportioning valve to and I did drill out the mounting holes on the proportioning valve to 1/4' SO i could use 1/4 - 20 bolts to attach it to my mount.

The first picture is of the factory oblong hole that I ran my hard line to. The second pic is the flexible brake hose through the oblong hole. Again this was just for a test fit the flex hose gets mounted through the outside of the frame. The third pic is of the hard line and flex hose mounted in the correct position BUT is the passenger side. The nut is a 5/8 - 18 jamb nut if I remember correctly. The fourth pic is the hard lines & the proportioning valve mounted in their correct locations and the fifth pic is of captianfab's vacuum booster mount mounted to my firewall. He even supplies grade 8 mounting bolts, nuts & washers with his bracket!

Any other questions please feel free to ask. If you want more pictures just let me know.

[64shortbox]

jamon8,
If you can wait until Saturday, I can get my truck outside the garage and take some pics of the way I have the idler arm mounted. If you would like another pics while I'm at it please let me know.

[JWalter 64]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If your truck is going to have discs in the front and drums in the rear, you can use most any disc/drum master cylinder. So yes you can use a '73-'87 master cylinder. That is what I typically recommend.

Captainfab,

Great info. Thank you!
I want to Thank all of you for the great info!
Jwalter64

[JWalter 64]

To everyone who has replied,

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the replies, and the pics and the info!
I have a 1964 swb big back window. Its just going to be a patina/shop truck but I want all of the running gear and everything thats not usually seen to be more up to date.
I haven't been a member of this forum for very long, but everyone has been very helpful and the information is priceless.
Thank you so much.
Jwalter 64

[Chevy Fleetside]

YOUR

[64shortbox]

Jamon8,
Sorry it took me so long to get these pics posted. My truck has been buried in the garage. Finally got it out of the garage this Sunday and took the pics for you. Hope they help some.

[MASTERBrian]

64shortbox,
Can I ask why you mounted the proportioning valve so far forward? Must I've seen are up by the firewall.

I'm curious if it's because the brake lines from the donor truck were longer, which begs the question, if the lines from a 73-87 fit but are longer, any issue cutting them down?

I'm looking at replacing the lines on my 60, and if I can get a decent alternative to bending New lines then all the better. I also plan on installing disc up front.

Looks good!