I can't remember where these go

[wannabefastcrf]

Working on swapping a 5.3 (2003) and I don't remember / know what to do with these.
Hose coming out of throttle body.



Line once connected to the intake. It has a small check port with what appears some type of schrader valve in it

[wannabefastcrf]

Also if anyone has any tips for eliminating the voltage regulator that would be awesome too

[truckdude239]

The one out of the thottle body needs to go to the raidotor some hiw its the steam hose

[ls1nova71]

First hose is the steam line, usually goes back to the radiator. The second line is to the purge solenoid, you wont need it. As for the voltage regulator, you won't need any of that either.

[wannabefastcrf]

I know I don't need the voltage regulator but do I need to connect any of the 4 lines that run into it to continue a circuit? Is it better to use the original alt red wire to the ls alternator or run a new one?

FYI. I have relocated my batter and junction block to the drivers side

[ls1nova71]

You dont need any of the wiring to it. The big red wire that goes from the battery junction block to the firewall bulkhead just T's off of it and goes to the voltage regulator, so you can find that spot and cut it out. Then just hook the alternator up like it was on the newer truck and have one of the smaller wires on the positive battery cable go to the junction block.

[wannabefastcrf]

Thanks again Eric,

I did some more reading last night and I believe I have to power the brown wire on the voltage regulator and like you said all the others can be removed. I'm hoping to find some time this weekend to get complete the wiring.

Also thanks for your build threads, I know I have studied a lot of them for my project. Was the blazer you built (on the youtube video) a personal vehicle for you or was it for someone else. I know I was on the fence about a cam in my 5.3 and the sound of that pushed me over the edge and I had to have one. I cant wait to get mine back on the road

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by wannabefastcrf

Thanks again Eric,

I did some more reading last night and I believe I have to power the brown wire on the voltage regulator and like you said all the others can be removed. I'm hoping to find some time this weekend to get complete the wiring.

Also thanks for your build threads, I know I have studied a lot of them for my project. Was the blazer you built (on the youtube video) a personal vehicle for you or was it for someone else. I know I was on the fence about a cam in my 5.3 and the sound of that pushed me over the edge and I had to have one. I cant wait to get mine back on the road

I don't know why you would need to power up a wire that goes to a regulator you will be removing? I removed all the wires going to the voltage regulator on mine.

Yes, the Blazer is mine. Its pretty much done now except for the top, which I'm not going to do until later so I can drive it with the top off for a while. I am kind of regretting the cam though. It sounds cool, but still isn't tuned right and its all because of the cam.

[72MARIO]

I think the brown wire needs power so that the amp gauge reads correctly. I have put that wire to power on both of the trucks I converted to internal regulated alternators

[wannabefastcrf]

It looked like to me the brown wire powers some internal light or something inside the cab. In my head the voltage regulator use to have power coming into it and out of it. So if i remove it i will remove the input but must make sure the output is still connected. I believe that is the brown wire. (I AM NO WIRING person at all) Hand be a welder any day of the week.

[ls1nova71]

Stock ammeter wont work with an LS swap, the alternator is PCM controlled. If I were you, I would switch to a voltmeter, you can use one out of a square body with a little modification or member Tbone64 sells a kit.